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Aviation Design Diamond Build by Ultimate Jets

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Old 12-27-2014, 12:50 PM
  #26  
Damo260
 
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Steve that's going to be a weapon what turbine are going to put in it so when the test flight

Damo
Old 12-27-2014, 02:10 PM
  #27  
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There was an incident yesterday when one of these got one of its elevators shredded at a straight and level high speed pass at some 15 feet altitude. Reason for the structural is un known at the moment . The model was equipped with 220 size Evo-jet turbine. It seems from some eyewitnesses that the model was flown at WOT during the entire flight routine with some pretty high G maneuvers which might have caused the structural failure.
Old 12-27-2014, 02:12 PM
  #28  
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It was a total loss.
Old 12-27-2014, 04:37 PM
  #29  
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You would have to have plenty of airspace I would think to be WOT for entire flight and the adrenalin to last that 6 or 7 minute flight. I feel for their loss as it is a very nice model.

With that in mind I may run clear hinge tape over leading edge of all surfaces. This has been done on previous models. Maybe not required but gives a peace of mind.


Still under negotiation with minister of war and finances but not holding out at this stage for any more funds. At this stage probably use what I already have Kingtech 210 out of Euro.

Maiden flight January sometime awaiting delivery of new airtrap tanks from Intairco and finalising how to fix the nose cone on.
Old 12-27-2014, 05:13 PM
  #30  
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So were are you going to the maiden at Steve

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Old 12-27-2014, 06:49 PM
  #31  
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HEY Damo have just spent a couple of hours with steve certainly awsom U SHALL WET YOUR PANTS
Old 12-27-2014, 08:21 PM
  #32  
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It looks a very nice jet can't wait to see it fly

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Old 12-27-2014, 09:11 PM
  #33  
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Maiden will be a MAC grass field. Lots of room if anything untoward happens. It should not. Coolum will be its first outing at a jet meet. John was around today with ideas on nose fixation ideas and have a plan now just have to execute it. He is a wealth of information as always.
Old 12-27-2014, 09:36 PM
  #34  
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Cool let me no I'll come for drive. That's why I'm getting John help with doing a removable nose on the F-18.

Steve when's Coolum Jet day for the QTF.

Damo
Old 12-27-2014, 10:05 PM
  #35  
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Make things clear flight duration 2 crash ~min....
Old 12-28-2014, 02:16 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by lavi rider
There was an incident yesterday when one of these got one of its elevators shredded at a straight and level high speed pass at some 15 feet altitude. Reason for the structural is un known at the moment . The model was equipped with 220 size Evo-jet turbine. It seems from some eyewitnesses that the model was flown at WOT during the entire flight routine with some pretty high G maneuvers which might have caused the structural failure.
Sorry for the loss of the airplane... Please share more details when more information about the reasons of the crash become available.

Thank you

T
Old 12-28-2014, 02:27 PM
  #37  
sysiek
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Check if you jet have red cevlal fibers right by live hinges just like the super Scorpion if not don't fly the jet hard you might lusse the surfaces ,I did witness one of the big mirage go down no fibers just some wise guy at aviation design make red marker lines to simulate the right build .
Old 12-28-2014, 09:36 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by sysiek
Check if you jet have red cevlal fibers right by live hinges just like the super Scorpion if not don't fly the jet hard you might lusse the surfaces ,I did witness one of the big mirage go down no fibers just some wise guy at aviation design make red marker lines to simulate the right build .
There is no such technique used on the new kits. That was the case on the very early South American versions a very long time ago.
The MKII and beyond kits are fitted with specific white live hinging fabric. It is very easy to see by just flipping the control and looking at from the inside.
Old 12-28-2014, 09:48 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by number27
Lookin good. A couple of questions re your diamond assembly and after reading your manual (no manual in the kit or supplied).
This is a mistake. Only the main tube gets the fixing screw. Manual modified.
Our smart fastening system is coming as an option for our customers. It is fitted in-house. I will post some pictures in a few days from now when I am back to the factory.
Old 12-28-2014, 10:13 PM
  #40  
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It is better than the red cevlar? Or just easier to build with out and use the white thin nylon tape?
Old 12-28-2014, 10:30 PM
  #41  
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I shall check tonight when I arrive home.
Old 12-28-2014, 11:08 PM
  #42  
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Use the 3m hinge tape not the clear tape it cracks the hinge tape it's nor pretty but much stronger over long time.
Old 12-29-2014, 04:27 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by sysiek
It is better than the red cevlar? Or just easier to build with out and use the white thin nylon tape?
Kevlar tapes tend to soak up resin and become stiff. Dyneema tapes are a lot better on that matter.
Old 12-29-2014, 11:02 AM
  #44  
number27
 
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Tks for the update on the secondary tube fixing and appreciate the pictures of the UJ fastening when available. No red striping as per Olnico's post newer kits don't have this.

Will look for the 3m tape. Have readily available source of the Du-Bro hinge tape from supplier when they return to work (5/1/15) if cant source any.
Old 12-29-2014, 12:35 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by number27
Tks for the update on the secondary tube fixing and appreciate the pictures of the UJ fastening when available. No red striping as per Olnico's post newer kits don't have this.

Will look for the 3m tape. Have readily available source of the Du-Bro hinge tape from supplier when they return to work (5/1/15) if cant source any.
DuBro hinge tape:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...294931481&rt=d
Old 12-29-2014, 07:20 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by number27
Tks for the update on the secondary tube fixing and appreciate the pictures of the UJ fastening when available. No red striping as per Olnico's post newer kits don't have this.

Will look for the 3m tape. Have readily available source of the Du-Bro hinge tape from supplier when they return to work (5/1/15) if cant source any.
Hello 27,

Just got back from my trip.

As Olinco stated about the UJ Fastening system. Its an option that is put on in house. The set up is new and I've not received the components to do th in house install yet. Oli will be the best person who can post the pics on the UJ Fastening system for I'm sure he is applying this to his personal Diamond. I will remind him

On this project I attached the nose cone the typical way as shown in the instructions with 4 countersunk sheet metal screws.

I'll be more than happy to send you an updated manual to the diamond if you provide me with an email address. You can pm me.

Nonetheless, this is how I fastend the nose cone on this Diamond

Nose cone attachement

The nose cone is very long and can be fastened using two ways.
Either 4 countersink sheet metal screws going through the side of the fuselage lip or the UJ smart fastening
system.

Sheet metal screw:

Place the nose cone on the fuselage and secure firmly with tape. Make sure the nose is straight.
Drill 4 holes at 22 mm in front of of the cone junction. Use a 1.5 mm jobber.



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Old 01-02-2015, 02:12 AM
  #47  
number27
 
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Here is how I have done my nose cone fixation. Help from my good John friend for his expertise. Apologies for the order
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:35 PM
  #48  
number27
 
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Today I started my White Racer with Kingtech 210 with canopy on and turbine hatch on and WOT was applied and fuselage and canopy commenced to be sucked in, I stopped turbine. I have read others have had similar experiences with their Diamonds. I have modified the canopy and put an extra two hooks on it like the way CompARF attach their canopies on most of their jets. This alleviated a full blown suck in I believe. I have also added two 25mm holes in the nose-wheel box area.

When the turbine hatch is off the model and WOT is applied there are no problems. When turbine hatch is put in its place (as you put in place at idle it gets sucked into position easily) and when WOT is applied fault happens. I have the turbine placed as per normal setups in the past approx 25mm from the end of the pipe to the tail-cone of the turbine. In your assembly manual however you state to only place the tailcone into the bellmouth by approx 25mm to prevent the venturi effect. I am now seeking some resolutions to prevent the fuse and canopy being sucked in.

A; move turbine forward as per your manual (do we then get a whistling turbine as it is too far away from of pipe) ?
B: place more holes in the nose-wheel compartment area?
C: put some holes in the fuse under the turbine?
D: put some bracing in fuse (least likeable solution)?

Any suggestions appreciated.
Old 01-11-2015, 02:37 AM
  #49  
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Might I suggest fitting a few piano wire 'hoops' inside the canopy in two places to add some rigidity to the canopy which is obviously not made strong enough for the job, two holes drilled close to the canopy 'glass' on the inside at equal distances along each side would allow a wire to be fitted so it followed the internal shape of the canopy and then simply bonded to the frame where it passes through. Pre painting it would make a smart feature

Its a thought so practically might not be possible but felt it was worth suggesting.

marcs
Old 01-11-2015, 03:20 AM
  #50  
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Tku for suggestion. It's more the fuse than the canopy being sucked in although if you rev up and down you see the canopy moving. It's like you are heavy breathing in and out. If left WOT I believe it would collapse. The canopy is very rigid.The portion between the front hook (to fuselage) of where I put the extra hooks I placed midway down the canopy which prevents the canopy being sucked in.


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