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Old 01-15-2021, 07:52 AM
  #49526  
Jesse Open
 
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider View Post
I need a suggestion on a cooling air inlet on this cowl, do I open the existing hole up higher, or make a new "smiley" like hole under the spinner? I think a round hole would look odd.

Dave,

No NASA science in the case of my Rascal 110. Not tightly cowled, plenty of air space. I simply opened a bit to clear the head a bit. Ran Saito 180, 150 and 120 without the slightest heating problems.
Old 01-15-2021, 12:19 PM
  #49527  
1200SportsterRider
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Thanks all, there is plenty of exit opening already, I will do as above too.


Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 01-15-2021 at 12:21 PM. Reason: Add picture
Old 01-15-2021, 10:51 PM
  #49528  
Monty Python
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open View Post
Dave,

No NASA science in the case of my Rascal 110. Not tightly cowled, plenty of air space. I simply opened a bit to clear the head a bit. Ran Saito 180, 150 and 120 without the slightest heating problems.
Nice looking cowling dave the quality seems very good. Are the raised dots to the rear of the cowling reinforced screw mounts?
Old 01-15-2021, 10:55 PM
  #49529  
Monty Python
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
Reminds me a bit of the .80 I have in a 1/5 scale SIG Cub. Asyou can see there isn't much showing.



Oh I found a picture of a new stamp commemorating the USPS new delivery vehicle, enjoy!


Mike i remember you posting that pretty yellow cub years ago, i still like it very neat cowling job too.

ps that snail would make a huge dish of escargot at a french restaurant...or should that be escargo go slow?
Old 01-15-2021, 10:58 PM
  #49530  
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Hey Guys Does anyone have a number 62 vane pump crank?
I think mine is broken. Would like to see an undamaged part for comparison. And an part number if any.
Just found the problem during re assembly of my FA-90T MK2
Old 01-15-2021, 11:06 PM
  #49531  
Monty Python
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lonnie you are right i think the old ratio was seven to one, so if you had say a square inch inlet at the front of the cowl you needed seven square inches of outlet. You commonly see rc models with huge inlet holes and very tiny outlets on cowled club planes. The "lip" before the exit hole is very important as it creates a low pressure area over the cowl exit and sucks hot air out as you know. I'm not sure it's a big problem with our alky fa saito's but i pay very careful attention to cowl airflow on our gas fg saito's.
Old 01-16-2021, 03:23 AM
  #49532  
1200SportsterRider
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Originally Posted by Monty Python View Post
Nice looking cowling dave the quality seems very good. Are the raised dots to the rear of the cowling reinforced screw mounts?

Yes sir, you drill the pre-drilled screw holes out to 3/16", a button goes inside the cowl with a 3/16" countersink in it. The outside button has 3/16" boss on it the inserts into the rear button through the 3/16" hole in the cowl. The outside button is also countersunk and a 1/16" sheet metal screw with a hard rubber washer on it holds it all together. The surface area being sandwiched between the two white washers is considerably great than the sheet metal screw alone. Wow, a big explanation for a simple thing. They were made and sold by PSP. They made quality stuff. I have a couple of their fuel jug caps. I think Gary has made some fuel jug caps also.

PSP fuel jug cap.

Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 01-16-2021 at 03:54 AM.
Old 01-16-2021, 03:30 AM
  #49533  
1200SportsterRider
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx View Post

Hey Guys Does anyone have a number 62 vane pump crank?
I think mine is broken. Would like to see an undamaged part for comparison. And an part number if any.
Just found the problem during re assembly of my FA-90T MK2
Jinx, I may have the # 60 rotor, I'll check, but pretty sure I don't have 62 drive plate.
Old 01-16-2021, 03:49 AM
  #49534  
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What exactly was the vane pump used for? I've noticed also that the 90T has a reduced vent nipple orifice.
Old 01-16-2021, 03:56 AM
  #49535  
1200SportsterRider
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It pumped air into the rear off the crankcase same as the diaphragm pumps did. The air exited the lower front.
Old 01-16-2021, 04:02 AM
  #49536  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider View Post
It pumped air into the rear off the crankcase same as the diaphragm pumps did. The air exited the lower front.
Oh, because the pistons travel the same direction, got it.
Should a filter be used on the pump intake? What about lubrication of the pump assembly?
Old 01-16-2021, 04:16 AM
  #49537  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider View Post
Yes sir, you drill the pre-drilled screw holes out to 3/16", a button goes inside the cowl with a 3/16" countersink in it. The outside button has 3/16" boss on it the inserts into the rear button through the 3/16" hole in the cowl. The outside button is also countersunk and a 1/16" sheet metal screw with a hard rubber washer on it holds it all together. The surface area being sandwiched between the two white washers is considerably great than the sheet metal screw alone. Wow, a big explanation for a simple thing. They were made and sold by PSP. They made quality stuff. I have a couple of their fuel jug caps. I think Gary has made some fuel jug caps also.

PSP fuel jug cap.
Mostly complete metal tanks.
I really liked thos PSP caps Dave. Wish they still made them. Also recall the slick can top pumps from Slimline. (Even though I would never again use an electric fuel pump.)
There were a lot of cottage industry type folks putting out fine products back in the Golden Days!
When imagination and quality were not considered a "bother"
Old 01-16-2021, 04:17 AM
  #49538  
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The intake is shown here, a filter not needed, the vanes are Mylar and would work better dry but get lubed anyway.

Old 01-16-2021, 04:23 AM
  #49539  
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Dave,
I used to dry lube those vanes with Moly- Disulfide dry powder lube. It is like ultrafine graphite powder. Allows the vanes to slide frelly without the drag.
Old 01-16-2021, 04:46 AM
  #49540  
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Tubing running from the pump through the firewall to cleaner air inside the fuse sounds like a good idea then. Clarence Lee states the vanes are made from teflon so a shot of ptfe based lube probably wouldn't hurt anything.
Old 01-16-2021, 05:17 AM
  #49541  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
Tubing running from the pump through the firewall to cleaner air inside the fuse sounds like a good idea then. Clarence Lee states the vanes are made from teflon so a shot of ptfe based lube probably wouldn't hurt anything.

They did away with the teflon material fairly early on.
Old 01-16-2021, 05:34 AM
  #49542  
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The 90T I received recently was sent to me to check for health and to break it in for the guy. The engine appears to have never seen fuel so I soaked it in methanol overnight to loosen things up and treated it to a good dose of lube. Even though I'm now curious as to the type of material used for the pump vanes I won't open it up to find out at this point

He sent me a low time 60T as well, After the same overnight treatment and lube it runs fine but the bearings are noisy. That one will come apart for a bearing swap and close inspection of the camshaft for cracks.

This may seem kind of strange but after refurbishing several 4 stroke twins this past few months I really don't care for how they sound once off idle.

Old 01-16-2021, 05:38 AM
  #49543  
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I can believe that.


Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-16-2021 at 05:41 AM.
Old 01-16-2021, 05:57 AM
  #49544  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open View Post
They did away with the teflon material fairly early on.
Thanks guys.
So if this "pump" is driven by a dog into the open crank pin into the bearing'd shaft.
My vane crank is toast. It is missing the dog, which must have broken and interference fit itself into oblivion while running. The plate is not attached to a shaft. Looks like a clean snap off at the plate base. And pull out of the dog.
looks like it ran like this for a while, case had no appreciable internal debris. It went down for bearings noise, was running fine like this for a while.
Poking around this morning, not finding the part or horizon hobby pdf parts breakdown much less available parts.
Haven't even secured the part number.
The internet sewer contains a gold nugget somewhere, I just can't find it in the sludge.lol


Old 01-16-2021, 06:05 AM
  #49545  
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx View Post
Thanks guys.
So if this "pump" is driven by a dog into the open crank pin into the bearing'd shaft.
My vane crank is toast. It is missing the dog, which must have broken and interference fit itself into oblivion while running. The plate is not attached to a shaft. Looks like a clean snap off at the plate base. And pull out of the dog.
looks like it ran like this for a while, case had no appreciable internal debris. It went down for bearings noise, was running fine like this for a while.
Poking around this morning, not finding the part or horizon hobby pdf parts breakdown much less available parts.
Haven't even secured the part number.
The internet sewer contains a gold nugget somewhere, I just can't find it in the sludge.lol

LOLActually this whole assembly turned out to be a very heavy crankcase vent in my case. Sort of...
Old 01-16-2021, 06:56 AM
  #49546  
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Hey Lonnie
PM me on the FG if you still have interest please.
Aaron
Old 01-16-2021, 11:33 AM
  #49547  
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Okay fellas here I am looking for easy answers to difficult questions as usual. LOL So I just picked up some thin wall brass tubing from The hardware and I'm going to bend it to make a ring for my OS 5 cylinder. Lots of discussion about this process recently and lots of great ideas. One has not been mentioned. What about filling the tube with molten lead making the bend and then heating the lead to remove it. ( I have easy access to lead and a smelter pot)
Drilling in the angled spigots from the exhaust headers would certainly be a lot easier if the tube was full of lead when the drill entered it.
Old 01-16-2021, 01:07 PM
  #49548  
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I doubt lead would work once it hardened. A fine sand works because it can shift position as you bend. Its like I hit you with a lead pipe and I could break bones but a rubber hose packed with sand generally just leaves heavy bruising allowing you to sustain the questioning over a longer period of time. SO I have been told.

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 01-16-2021 at 01:09 PM.
Old 01-16-2021, 02:04 PM
  #49549  
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx View Post
LOLActually this whole assembly turned out to be a very heavy crankcase vent in my case. Sort of...
Yeah, It kind of is. I'm wondering if you could simply enlarge the vent nipple ID to normal size and run it with an inoperable vane pump. It's not going to push/pulse the excess oil out of the case like with boxer twins but the larger vent should drain the excess oil out while running.
Old 01-16-2021, 02:07 PM
  #49550  
1200SportsterRider
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If you could find a suitable way to eliminate the pump you'd be good to go, just block the rear holes and use the front vent like the later twins did.

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