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Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
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re the 504, it took my very generous mate keith over 12 months to get the arizona models guy to deliver every thing but the wait was worth it. another good supplier is mick reeves, keth wouldn't let me have that one (or sell it to us in the se corner) and i don't blame him one bit.
popey i believe fnq said we speak genuine ozzy and besides that i'm a kiwi
fnq was reading your comments about having a pommie sympathiser re english racing planes..would my mew gull be eligable.72" wingspan fourstroke 220 engine.
Post edited to restore harmony
fnq was reading your comments about having a pommie sympathiser re english racing planes..would my mew gull be eligable.72" wingspan fourstroke 220 engine.
Post edited to restore harmony
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 08-30-2013 at 06:33 PM.
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Applied months ago, unfortunately my Saito 100 is still waiting in its box for the owner to get cracking building the model it was intended to propel through the big blue skies
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Old Fart, after working in Malaysia for a number of years when I returned home the number of times I was asked "which island do you come from bro north or south" I almost turned homocidal. It would appear as if I had picked up the K1W1 accent from the guys who I supervised on my shift working on the line at Malaysian A/lines
So I can speak K1W1 I guess.
Arm is improving, saw the xrays (stored on cd now) bloody impressive and the missus is treating the scar with vitamin e cream to stop it contracting etc.
Hope to fly next w/end with my mates help (well maybe) but we'll see
catch ya
So I can speak K1W1 I guess.
Arm is improving, saw the xrays (stored on cd now) bloody impressive and the missus is treating the scar with vitamin e cream to stop it contracting etc.
Hope to fly next w/end with my mates help (well maybe) but we'll see
catch ya
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#809 Hrananar (sorry to have overlooked your request or maybe it got caught up in the new RCU confusion)
Vitamin E oil can work wonders on scars if used often every day.
Vitamin E oil can work wonders on scars if used often every day.
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Hey all,
Just pulled out a used FA62 purchased about a year ago, planing to fire it up and get it ready for an AgWagon. Has seemed just fine 'til today, when - flipped it once, seemed ok - 2nd flip there was no compression. Thought I'd not tightened the prop, but it was tight. Mabey a valve stuck - pulled covers and both seemed to be moving freely, just a smidgeon of play when valves were closed. The plug is tight, anything left except the ring? Without the prop seems to be a little roughness when turning it over. Any thoughts apprecited. Many Thanx - Mike
T-man49 in Al
Club Saito 723
Just pulled out a used FA62 purchased about a year ago, planing to fire it up and get it ready for an AgWagon. Has seemed just fine 'til today, when - flipped it once, seemed ok - 2nd flip there was no compression. Thought I'd not tightened the prop, but it was tight. Mabey a valve stuck - pulled covers and both seemed to be moving freely, just a smidgeon of play when valves were closed. The plug is tight, anything left except the ring? Without the prop seems to be a little roughness when turning it over. Any thoughts apprecited. Many Thanx - Mike
T-man49 in Al
Club Saito 723
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Check both the carb inlet and exhaust port when rotating over on compression stroke. Even though you state both valves seem fine, I'm assuming one or the other remain partially open, (either from crud on the valve stems or a piece of carbon may have come loose to jam between the valve and seat). I just had the same thing on a 100 that sat for a bit. Freed it up and it was fine for the subsequent flights.
The roughness when rotating may be corrosion or just gummed up lube. If possible, put a few drops of raw fuel into the vent line and SLOWLY roll the engine around to fully distribute it in the case. Once done let it sit for a bit. If gummed up it should free up. If corroded you should seriously look at bearing replacement at least.
On that note, I find other signs pointing to corrosion. If you notice any of the valvetrain under the covers exhibit corrosion, (not to be confused with dried lube) then other ferrous materials inside the case, such as the crank, cam and bearings, are also succeptible.
The roughness when rotating may be corrosion or just gummed up lube. If possible, put a few drops of raw fuel into the vent line and SLOWLY roll the engine around to fully distribute it in the case. Once done let it sit for a bit. If gummed up it should free up. If corroded you should seriously look at bearing replacement at least.
On that note, I find other signs pointing to corrosion. If you notice any of the valvetrain under the covers exhibit corrosion, (not to be confused with dried lube) then other ferrous materials inside the case, such as the crank, cam and bearings, are also succeptible.
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Hey Cougar and thanx for the response
Would the spring remain under tension if valve not completely closinng? Was pleasantly surprised at the lube under the covers - certainly not excessive, but did have to wipe off the covers after reinstalling. I'll try some fuel up the vent line and take a further look under the covers.
Thanx again for the response and sugestions
T-man49 in Al
Would the spring remain under tension if valve not completely closinng? Was pleasantly surprised at the lube under the covers - certainly not excessive, but did have to wipe off the covers after reinstalling. I'll try some fuel up the vent line and take a further look under the covers.
Thanx again for the response and sugestions
T-man49 in Al
fnq hope you are back fit as so you can fly a bit better,i'll have to practice my aussie a bit.
barry did you know you can mix vitamin e with water and pour it into an ice tray..they sound healthier when they hit the scotch..happy saito's to you guys
barry did you know you can mix vitamin e with water and pour it into an ice tray..they sound healthier when they hit the scotch..happy saito's to you guys
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triumphman, the springs are ALWAYS under tension, even with the valves fully closed, (that's what pulls them shut and holds them that way) so there should be a reasonable amount of tension to push against. You can check by hand, but try to do this with the piston away from Top Dead Center to prevent the valve from contacting the top of the piston.
The only time I have seen springs lose tension is if the engine has been severely overheated. There will be other signs to confirm if this is the case, such as burnt lube in the valvetrain/rocker area. Most affected will usually be the exhaust valve. You can also have seizing, such as the connecting rod to the crank pin, (had this happen once). It is much more common to have a valve stick partially open. Again, look into the exhaust port at the valve stem and see if there is a lot of dark carbon accumulation on the stem and port walls.
Did you hear any leaking at the intake or exhaust when rotating the motor? You can get a ring sticking if heavily gummed up or have burnt castor oil accumulation in the groove, but again, new fuel introduced either in the vent port or even into the glow plug hole should work to free that up if left to sit for a while. Just be advised to NEVER try to force a motor if there is a slug of fuel/oil trapped above the piston, (invert the motor and drain before reinstalling the plug). This is particularly common if the motor is inverted and the reason you see ground crews rotating the props of large radial engines, (good example is the WWII B-29 bomber) before firing them up. Oil can seep past the rings and collect in the lower cylinders. Trying to flip the starter can cause damage.
I have been looking for a 62 for a while now as they are the updated and lightened design from the 65. Due to that yours should have some refinements to the cam profile and valve seat inserts, rather than chromed base metal, (those older style cannot be touched or dressed out).
The only time I have seen springs lose tension is if the engine has been severely overheated. There will be other signs to confirm if this is the case, such as burnt lube in the valvetrain/rocker area. Most affected will usually be the exhaust valve. You can also have seizing, such as the connecting rod to the crank pin, (had this happen once). It is much more common to have a valve stick partially open. Again, look into the exhaust port at the valve stem and see if there is a lot of dark carbon accumulation on the stem and port walls.
Did you hear any leaking at the intake or exhaust when rotating the motor? You can get a ring sticking if heavily gummed up or have burnt castor oil accumulation in the groove, but again, new fuel introduced either in the vent port or even into the glow plug hole should work to free that up if left to sit for a while. Just be advised to NEVER try to force a motor if there is a slug of fuel/oil trapped above the piston, (invert the motor and drain before reinstalling the plug). This is particularly common if the motor is inverted and the reason you see ground crews rotating the props of large radial engines, (good example is the WWII B-29 bomber) before firing them up. Oil can seep past the rings and collect in the lower cylinders. Trying to flip the starter can cause damage.
I have been looking for a 62 for a while now as they are the updated and lightened design from the 65. Due to that yours should have some refinements to the cam profile and valve seat inserts, rather than chromed base metal, (those older style cannot be touched or dressed out).
Last edited by Cougar429; 09-03-2013 at 02:38 PM.
Hey Cougar and thanx for the response
Would the spring remain under tension if valve not completely closinng? Was pleasantly surprised at the lube under the covers - certainly not excessive, but did have to wipe off the covers after reinstalling. I'll try some fuel up the vent line and take a further look under the covers.
Thanx again for the response and sugestio
T-man49 in Al
Would the spring remain under tension if valve not completely closinng? Was pleasantly surprised at the lube under the covers - certainly not excessive, but did have to wipe off the covers after reinstalling. I'll try some fuel up the vent line and take a further look under the covers.
Thanx again for the response and sugestio
T-man49 in Al
Richard/Club Saito #635: FA 100, FA 125abc, FA 130t, Fa 180; Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96
You could try opening the throttle fully before you flick the engine over.That way it can suck some air into the cylinder and presto,compression? mind you,i've been wrong heaps of times before this.
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I have been looking for a 62 for a while now as they are the updated and lightened design from the 65. Due to that yours should have some refinements to the cam profile and valve seat inserts, rather than chromed base metal, (those older style cannot be touched or dressed out).
Cory
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With stuck / no compression engines, I usually pour a heap of fuel down the rxhaust pipe and turn the engine over by hand. eave it in the sun for about 1/2 an hour (takes that long to have a drink of coffe or other non alcoholic beverage and then attempt to start the beast with an electric starter. If successful run the hell out of it and then check the compression. If ok I would still take the back plate off and check for corrosion and go from there. Of course that is the kill or cure method as an alternative you could follow all the advice listed above.
Old fart I will not be flying until the end of October, no lifting and all the medicos were very emphatic about that (worst part no driving, but given Brisbane traffic I just close my eyes, engage the GPS for the other 1/2 and let her at it). My modelling activities will be limited to CDing a couple of comps, and setting up / modifying the rules for our racing calender / Gratton Do or so I am told.
In between time I am organising my mothers estate, she has dementia and her affairs (financial) are a bloody mess.
All good fun but I look on the bright side my helicopter engineer son doesn't have to take those death trap MRH 90's into combat (now official / official) so that is a big plus. For those who don't know can you imagine inserting a chopper into a hot LZ with only one way in or out of the beast that is from the back under the tail boom. Bloody madness.
Old fart I will not be flying until the end of October, no lifting and all the medicos were very emphatic about that (worst part no driving, but given Brisbane traffic I just close my eyes, engage the GPS for the other 1/2 and let her at it). My modelling activities will be limited to CDing a couple of comps, and setting up / modifying the rules for our racing calender / Gratton Do or so I am told.
In between time I am organising my mothers estate, she has dementia and her affairs (financial) are a bloody mess.
All good fun but I look on the bright side my helicopter engineer son doesn't have to take those death trap MRH 90's into combat (now official / official) so that is a big plus. For those who don't know can you imagine inserting a chopper into a hot LZ with only one way in or out of the beast that is from the back under the tail boom. Bloody madness.
I know what you mean.I've replaced this keyboard six times but it still writes rubbish,what's my problem?.Hope you gradually get things sorted out and back to normal?
Dave a few posts ago you showed a picture of an fa150 with a vp20 fuel pump attached.Did you run it and if so what affect did it have re tuning and why did you think it necessary to fit it? cheers all.
Dave a few posts ago you showed a picture of an fa150 with a vp20 fuel pump attached.Did you run it and if so what affect did it have re tuning and why did you think it necessary to fit it? cheers all.
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Pete that was when I had the carb mounted on the head, I ordered the stock intake pipe and sent that straight in pipe to Dan. I've never had much luck with Perry pumps. To me, if you have to adjust one you're screwed. The only one I had that worked perfectly came on an ABITAR 1.20 which also had the carb mounted on the head. As you can see, the ABITAR was a hotrod with a 14x6 which was the recommended prop. It was made to rev.
Thats a pretty speccy(exotic,nice looking)engine.What i'm really mulling over is whether to fit a cline regulater to the big 220 as i've heard it may cause the engine to run lean and this one is tightly cowled.Thats the reason i was thinking about fitting one of my vp20 pumps just before the cline regulator.Also the oneway exhaust check valve so i could have fuel pressure up to the pump,then to the cline,and then let the engine suck what it needs and run it a bit fat.If thats to complicated i'll just run a two line setup and tune as usual.Cheers
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