johnfly

The flash point of castor is around 540 deg. most synthetics will flash around 420 deg. The point where your motor is hating life ........ about 320 deg !!! (Priceless) I have always heard that up to 4% castor will yield all the benefits of castor without any of the nasty black buildup !
ps..... whats it take to be a member of the saito brotherhood ??? at last count I think I own 6 and have rebuilt 4 of them and a couple for friends.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

BLW takes care of the Saito Brotherhood files

johnfly

Thank you sir.

FNQFLYER

New toy = either a FG11 or a 125, is that back to Saitos. Drool Old Fart a good woman who understands a mans need to have toys (other than her) to play with. As my son said us baby boomers will not just die (or go away) gracefully. I have a home for the 125 but what would I use a FG11 for.

FNQFLYER

Next question, twin plug Saitos. The last time I saw one was in the early 90's in Malaysia. I think it was a 120 or 125. I think there was also a 150 version does any one have one or experience of same?

Rudolph Hart

I believe that anything a 'club' meaning keen member writes here is good enough.The word club conjurs up a feeling of unity amongst people with a common interest and for those not keen on pm ing everyone else it's a good way to get to know what other members think,and that;s just as important as your own view.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The Operative word is, Club Saito, not BS.

SrTelemaster150

Many multi-cylinder Saitos had dual plugs. Amomg them; FA182TD, FA200Ti, FA300TTDP & FA450R3D.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

FNQ, I had a twin plug 1.30 twin for a while, Bill Robison said that by installing a correct plug and a coller plug you could have a curve in the ignition timing, I tried it but there was no way to prove or disprove it. I just used four Fox Miracles and they a perfect set up. Sorry, that one is a .90T

blw

My Feedback: (3)

This is a huge thread. If I ever get laid up with some illness and have time to kill I'm going to read every post from day one just to see how many different topics we have strayed off on. I bet that would prove to be a very interesting list. Bill Robison was the worst for staying off topic sometimes....even though it was almost always interesting. I miss his close up photos that always included cat hair all over the engines.

falcon_56

Agree this thread has fantastic information about Saito engines. It could almost be a unofficial service manual if the questions/answers get organized. Thank goodness for the search function

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

Okay.... This thread is so big and I'm going blind trying find specific information within it. I'm sure all this has been answered before, but I hope some of you can send me to the correct pages or links.
I have a Saito 125 that has about 2 1/2 - 3 gallons od 15% FS through it and I want to convert it to Gas or other ignition system. I see conversion kits for the older 120 through 180, but not for the 125.
With converting to methanol Ignition, will it get longer run time on the same volume of fuel?
Is there a Gas conversion/carb for this engine?
An ignition conversion website for dummies?
Thanks and happy Holidays!

John

SrTelemaster150

My single cylinder Saitos that were converted to CDI W/glow fuel averaged about 25% longer run time tyhan GI (glow ignition) on a given amount of fuel. My FA200TI runs 70% longer!

When converting to CDI W/methanol set the ignition advance to 34° to 36° BTDC. 28° is appropriate for gasoline, not alcohol.

A straight CDI/glow fuel conversion will gain about 6% HP over GI while a gas conversion will drop 15% HP from GI output. There is a 20% or more advantage for CDI/glow fuel over a CDI/gas conversion.

CH Ignitions have magnet rings & Hall sensor mounts that will fit vairious Saito engines. Contact Adrian @ CH Ignitions for your particular application.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Sr, know that you've referenced this before, but what lube percentage are you using for your converted engines?

T-man49 in Al

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry for the delay in getting new members their numbers.......

#811 falcon_56

#812 johnfly

Anyone else care to get a club number? Just let me know here or by private message.

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

I'll take a number sir!!!!!

John

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

Thanks Sir. I ordered the conversion kit from CH today. Any words on Nitro content? Or how far I should lean the carb?

John

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Yes please!

3xFA-100, 2xFA-82b, FA-91, FA-125, FG-21

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

A warning to all FG-21 owners:

The Saito Gas Engines manual lists the wrong part number for the cylinder, on page 31 it states SAI G2001 which is the FG-20 part no, the correct one is SAI G2101

Ask me how I know: I ordered the one listed in the manual, now waiting for Horizon & Advantage Hobby to approve the replacement ...

SrTelemaster150

Right now I'm using out of the jug 15% Cool Power that is 17% full synthetic lube.

I have run as low as 8% lube W/30% nitro in O'Donnell Speed Blend fuel. The high nitro content means that the needle has to be opened up to get the proper A/F ratio thus running more lube through the engine.

Various sources have advocated as little as 10% lube W/CDI & if/when I get to a point where I can source methanol, I would not hesitate to reduce the lube to 10%.

SrTelemaster150

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnboy151a

Thanks Sir. I ordered the conversion kit from CH today. Any words on Nitro content? Or how far I should lean the carb?

John

Here is a thread that goes over the conversion in detail.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1774802

Start your engine on the GI (glow ignition) carburetor settings. Keep leaning the HSN until you reach a "flat" spot. That is when leaning the HSN no longer increases RPM. This will be about 1/4 turn @ peak RPM. From peak RPM, open the HSN until the RPM falters, then go 2 clicks lean. There is no need to go "300 RPM rich" W/CDI like when running GI. GI advances the ignition timing as you reach peak (lean) RPM, CDI does not.

Lean out the LSN until you get a smooth transition. Too rich on the LSN & the engine will hesitate, and then pick up RPM. Too lean & it will just die on transition. You should see a bit of smoke on transition, and then the smoke will thin out as the engine transitions to the HSN. A large belch of smoke on transition indicates too rich on the LSN.

Go back & forth a few time on the HSN/LSN.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I do the needles somewhat differently than Dan's method. Since the needle seat for the HS needle is fixed, (does not move), I peak the engine and leave it peaked, then I set the LS needle, changes to the LS needle will not alter the HS needle to seat relationship. And, keep in mind that any extra richness in the LS needle makes for fuel guzzling as it controls the mixture for about 85% of the throttle range.

SrTelemaster150

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hobbsy

I do the needles somewhat differently than Dan's method. Since the needle seat for the HS needle is fixed, (does not move), I peak the engine and leave it peaked, then I set the LS needle, changes to the LS needle will not alter the HS needle to seat relationship. And, keep in mind that any extra richness in the LS needle makes for fuel guzzling as it controls the mixture for about 85% of the throttle range.

That is correct when GI is employed. The LSN does not affect the peak RPM but when running CDI there is a wide range of acceptable HSN settings. The HSN as well as the LSN will affect transition & sometimes for the best (leanest) transition one needs to tweak both.

I have seen times when closing down the HSN a few clicks from maximum rich/peak RPM can take the stumble out of transition when the LSN adjustment alone will not. Remember, we have about 1/4 turn of leeway W/the HSN between the maximum rich/peak RPM setting & dangerously lean when CDI is employed. Also, the needle settings for CDI are extremely lean compared to the settings for GI so some of the affects are a little different.

The difference in power output, when a fixed ignition event is present, between 12.8:1 A/F ratio & 13.5:1 is negligible yet either is safe.

On my dual carburetor FA300TTDP I can lean out the LSN @ idle until that particular cylinder drops out then open it up just enough to bring that cylinder back. That gives me the perfect transition LSN setting. For obvious reasons, that isn't practical W/a single cylinder or a twin W/a single carburetor.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan, my particular 1.50 will not tolerate a few clicks lean, Maybe with CDI it would, but on glow I would have to go to the neighbors to get the prop back and never find the nuts. This I have experienced, my neighbor brought back one of the prop blades the next spring while tilling his garden.

SrTelemaster150

Just for $h**s & giggles I tried to fire up my high compression FA180 on GI.

I could not get it to transition reliably W/O similar results & yes, I never found the prop locknut either. It was pure EVIL!

CDI changed that whole ball game.

Once you get yours fired up on spark you will find that the HSN setting is far less sensitive & less prone to violence!