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02-07-2014, 12:52 PM
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I find a manure spreader helps then stay to one side of the road and not run 4-6 abreast and blocking highway traffic.
Nothing uglier than coming over the top of a hill doing 55 MPH and have a gaggle these goofy looking turds in their body speedos hogging the road.
Now when they have to avoid running through a layer of Poop, they tend to stay to one side or the other
Got to love country living.
I winder how my Saito 100 will work in the SIG 1/5th Cub.
Nothing uglier than coming over the top of a hill doing 55 MPH and have a gaggle these goofy looking turds in their body speedos hogging the road.
Now when they have to avoid running through a layer of Poop, they tend to stay to one side or the other
Got to love country living. I winder how my Saito 100 will work in the SIG 1/5th Cub.
As far as riding on limited sight distance roads, I avoid that & I am very careful when I do.
Enough of the bicycles already.
The 100 will be more than enough for a 1/5 scale Cub.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-07-2014 at 01:03 PM.
02-07-2014, 01:48 PM
You attitude would change about bicycle riders once you started riding. I now mine did. There's 1 road locally that has little or no shoulder. I used to ride on the shoulder but I got tired of having cages blow by me @ 60+ MPH less than 3' away. Now I ride near the center of the lane, watch my mirror & if they slow down & act civilized, I move over to let them by. If not, I watch & stay out there until they slow almost to a stop. I had 1 stooge start to pass @ speed W/O looking to see the oncomming car. He had to slam on the brakes & almost stop. He yelled @ me as he went by & I flipped him the bird. The puke stops the car & starts to get out, "breakin' bad". I had ridden almost 4,000 miles that year & I was a solid 230#. I just stopped the bike, smiled & invited him to climb on. For some reason he wasn't so eager then.
As far as riding on limited sight distance roads, I avoid that & I am very careful when I do.
Enough of the bicycles already.
The 100 will be more than enough for a 1/5 scale Cub.
As far as riding on limited sight distance roads, I avoid that & I am very careful when I do.
Enough of the bicycles already.
The 100 will be more than enough for a 1/5 scale Cub.
John
02-07-2014, 02:14 PM
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02-07-2014, 02:36 PM
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The deciding factor on how bike riders should act is whose the one thats gonna get splattered the bike rider or the car driver . When I see two riders riding side by side holding traffic up well no wonder they get a bad rap . Cheers the pope
02-07-2014, 02:57 PM
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I'll through my 2 bob's worth in. In Malaysia (while I was working for MAS) more to the point Kuala Lumpur, they had a very civilised system comcerning motor bikes (step throughs) and push bikes of all persuasions. What they had was a totally barracaded off section of every major road which was for the exclusive use of said 2 wheeled conveyences. Very good kept them away from us responsible road users. Only problem was the speed limit in these lanes was a nominal 100KPH. Now all the normal users would only reach that speed EXCEPT for the expats. Imagine this, jam packed "road" expat on a 1000cc Yamaha doing his thing along these "roads" A sight to behold
On Saitos we are about to test the suitability of a "big" Saito in a racing Extra 300. More later.
On Saitos we are about to test the suitability of a "big" Saito in a racing Extra 300. More later.
02-07-2014, 03:38 PM
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Dan, what is an alternative to HH for Saito parts, I need a gasket set for my sort of new 1.00. Two new velocity stacks came yesterday form HH. My bike is a 15 speed Rand, it was a retirement gift from Verizon.
02-07-2014, 04:07 PM
Senior Member
blw mentioned a source in the UK on another thread. I'll look for it.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-07-2014 at 05:43 PM.
02-07-2014, 05:57 PM
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02-07-2014, 06:26 PM
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02-07-2014, 07:23 PM
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Wow, good find. I bookmarked that site. They have parts in stock that HH is out of including some FA180 parts I will be needing. And, their prices on most parts are cheaper than Advantage even.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-07-2014 at 07:52 PM.
02-07-2014, 07:31 PM
Yeah, and I looked for the mailer in the shop for the place I got the Saito parts. Must have tossed it. I'll fire up the other computer later and find the email traffic for the website. I'm happy with ordering from England as long as I don't have to have it in a week. The thing I found interesting is they were backordered on the 82 aluminum backplate for a week or two, but they did restock it. HH has been out for over 2 years!!
I decided to sell my 1984 era Peugeot 10 speed that I got in the Canadian PX in Baden-Baden, Germany. They are going for double what I paid for it new. The only things not original are the tubes and hand grips.
I decided to sell my 1984 era Peugeot 10 speed that I got in the Canadian PX in Baden-Baden, Germany. They are going for double what I paid for it new. The only things not original are the tubes and hand grips.
02-08-2014, 08:41 AM
http://www.hobbyplastic.co.uk/index....index&cPath=88
The engine prices are steep, but parts are pretty much the same.
The engine prices are steep, but parts are pretty much the same.
Last edited by blw; 02-08-2014 at 08:48 AM.
02-08-2014, 02:14 PM
02-08-2014, 02:42 PM
Old Fart, the best method I know of to loosen and remove gunk on any engine is a good soak in hot glycol anti freeze. I found an old crock pot at a resale shop for $8 as it can never be used for food processing again. You also want to do this outside as the fumes can be toxic.
The good thing is the glycol does not harm rubber gaskets and seals and can be reused if filtered upon return to the container.
I believe the longest I've ever needed to boil parts was 2 hours. Even the baked on castor outside the muffler disappeared to give me an "OOOH Shiny!" appearance. Letting the bits cool, a rinse with cold water, blow dry, (including any lube, fuel and vent passages) and a good dose of oil for all the rotating/sliding parts should be all that's required. You may want to remove the rear and valve covers to allow penetration.
The good thing is the glycol does not harm rubber gaskets and seals and can be reused if filtered upon return to the container.
I believe the longest I've ever needed to boil parts was 2 hours. Even the baked on castor outside the muffler disappeared to give me an "OOOH Shiny!" appearance. Letting the bits cool, a rinse with cold water, blow dry, (including any lube, fuel and vent passages) and a good dose of oil for all the rotating/sliding parts should be all that's required. You may want to remove the rear and valve covers to allow penetration.
02-08-2014, 03:49 PM
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I do as much as my riding off pavment as I can. I even used my full suspension bike to access some backcountry in the Adirondacks hunting Black Bear after encountering one on a trail during a ride with my wife.
Most of my riding is on a "Hybrid" that runs on semi-slick tires that are at home on both the pavement & moderate trails.
Most of my riding is on a "Hybrid" that runs on semi-slick tires that are at home on both the pavement & moderate trails.
02-08-2014, 04:49 PM
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02-08-2014, 06:20 PM
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Hi. I have a Saito 150(H) NIB and I wonder if it is different from the 150S. Does the H mean it is a high compression version? I have not fired it up yet or mounted it. Thanks
02-08-2014, 06:43 PM
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Thanks so much Bob, I'm looking forward to hearing it purr.
RC, I have one of the first 1.50 produced, it is a 1.50S with high compression but no letter designation on the right lug.
RC, I have one of the first 1.50 produced, it is a 1.50S with high compression but no letter designation on the right lug.
02-08-2014, 06:55 PM
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thanks Hobbsy. Have you run a 120s? Would you know if it is a smoother runner than a 150s? I have one of each,both still NIB and I am just wondering about any differences in the characteristics of the two.
02-09-2014, 03:51 AM
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RC, I have been in the presence of a couple of 120s' but have never owned one my self. I think of my 1.50s as being smooth but I don't run wood props on it, I run a Mejzlik 16x8, a Graupner 16x8 and used to run a MA 16x8 three blade with .5" cut off the tips. It turned that three blade at 8,700 which was plenty good.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-09-2014 at 03:59 AM.