Welcome to Club SAITO !
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My Feedback: (3)
Throwing the prop is most often due to lean on the HS needle. Found that out the hard way on my first Saito, also the 91.
I have 3 self-contained starters, the one in the pic uses a 4S Lipo too long in the tooth to fly. Turns over everything up to my 125's.
The Super ;Bolt has a 100 mounted with a Tru Turn spinner. That uses the double-lock system, with the secondary nut also the adapter for the bolt holding the spinner to the back plate.
I have 3 self-contained starters, the one in the pic uses a 4S Lipo too long in the tooth to fly. Turns over everything up to my 125's.
The Super ;Bolt has a 100 mounted with a Tru Turn spinner. That uses the double-lock system, with the secondary nut also the adapter for the bolt holding the spinner to the back plate.
hmm it had just ran, I had an issue with the servo setting and could not get the idle down, so had stopped it, but did that by leaning it out at half throttle. It kicked back after that time as well. It wasn't running smooth at WT and when trying to adjust it, that is when it spit the prop.
Should I need to touch LSN to correct, or just the high speed?
Now here's what makes me SMH. The prop with spinner and all hit the side of my truck, didn't leave a mark, yet road salt kicked up from a car ahead chipped the crap out of the paint! The prop whacked it pretty hard too.
Should I need to touch LSN to correct, or just the high speed?
Now here's what makes me SMH. The prop with spinner and all hit the side of my truck, didn't leave a mark, yet road salt kicked up from a car ahead chipped the crap out of the paint! The prop whacked it pretty hard too.
hmm it had just ran, I had an issue with the servo setting and could not get the idle down, so had stopped it, but did that by leaning it out at half throttle. It kicked back after that time as well. It wasn't running smooth at WT and when trying to adjust it, that is when it spit the prop.
Should I need to touch LSN to correct, or just the high speed?
Now here's what makes me SMH. The prop with spinner and all hit the side of my truck, didn't leave a mark, yet road salt kicked up from a car ahead chipped the crap out of the paint! The prop whacked it pretty hard too.
Should I need to touch LSN to correct, or just the high speed?
Now here's what makes me SMH. The prop with spinner and all hit the side of my truck, didn't leave a mark, yet road salt kicked up from a car ahead chipped the crap out of the paint! The prop whacked it pretty hard too.
My Grand-dad always said Henry Ford was a little too friendly with Adolph Hitler.
And very hard on the Jewish people. Many people in the Detroit area got to see that first-hand.
And that is real history.
And very hard on the Jewish people. Many people in the Detroit area got to see that first-hand.
And that is real history.
My Feedback: (1)
Jesse, have you ever run a RCV engine for any length of time so that you can comment on them ? I'm not looking to buy one, I just find them interesting, so I thought I would ask you if you knew much about them ?
thanks
Jim
thanks
Jim
Throwing the prop is most often due to lean on the HS needle. Found that out the hard way on my first Saito, also the 91.
I have 3 self-contained starters, the one in the pic uses a 4S Lipo too long in the tooth to fly. Turns over everything up to my 125's.
The Super ;Bolt has a 100 mounted with a Tru Turn spinner. That uses the double-lock system, with the secondary nut also the adapter for the bolt holding the spinner to the back plate.
I have 3 self-contained starters, the one in the pic uses a 4S Lipo too long in the tooth to fly. Turns over everything up to my 125's.
The Super ;Bolt has a 100 mounted with a Tru Turn spinner. That uses the double-lock system, with the secondary nut also the adapter for the bolt holding the spinner to the back plate.
Bruce re priming your 91 dave is right it's too rich and will kick back violently as you say.I've had a few start and run backwards because of that so it's a scramble to get the throttle trim down so it stops if the engine is fully cowled.Or you can block the exhaust with your finger.Ideally you flick the prop with a finger over the carb inlet three or four times and then flick the prop with your finger off once or twice,you should hear that half wet sound they make if it is quiet and no one is running up an engine.If it's noisey/engines/wind etc hook the glo plug up before you do the priming and this time just turn the engine over slowly by hand while priming.You will feel a bump back from the prop when there is enough fuel in there for the 91 to start,avoids flooding the engine when done carefully.As far as tuning goes for max rpm without being lean at wot you will find it difficult if you do not wind the lsn out rich at idle and start on the hsn first.
Dave you are right i googled rolls royces new colours,there is the odd green one in there,living proof that serious money does not give you everything.As for the 20" lift kit and go anywhere button i reckon anybody with that amount to spend can do exactly that i wish i had the pictures to prove that i've gone fox shooting out in the wheat belt here at night and a spotlight in a rolls royce with the roof cut off.It was a typical wheatbelt paddock with a few rocks here and there but you shoot better off the back of a roller because it's not as bumpy as a fourwheel drive.
Over Primed
Latest starter, gear reduction and self contained, home brew from commercial scooter starter uses 3S / 5200 mah hard case LiPo Easily starts 80cc .
Those over primed engines that like to start backwards will ousally start and run correctly when flipped backwards. Not hard, just enough to bounce back. A bit of a technique but works well. Some Saito instructors actually describe it as the preferred method IIRC
Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-04-2018 at 02:58 AM. Reason: Correcting spell check's error
Sorry but no, I haven't. A fellow club member has one and I am still waiting to see it run. Almost bought one when they were shown at Toledo a few years ago. They do show up in the classifieds at reasonable prices at times. May have to pick one up.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
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The .58 CD is over an inch shorter in height than an OS .52.
Jim, a few years ago I had a .90 SP and a .58 CD, the .58 was a sweetheart, the .90, well, I just couldn't find a practical use for it. The .58 turned a 13 x 6 at 9,000 rpm, on 10% fuel with 16% lube exactly as RCV claimed. I forget what the .90 SP turned, a 16 x 12 four blade I think @ 5,500.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-04-2018 at 03:19 AM. Reason: Add picture
Just for the sake of diversity, a couple more conversions to self contained starters. One is a handy little gear reduction Kavan starter. Starts the OS Gemini 160 very nicely but limited to 80 size singles. Again a #S LiPo pack for power.
The other is the good old Sullivan Hi-Torque. This onewas done years ago pre LiPo; Now has a pair of 3S LiPo in the box. Also fitted with a easy to actuate lever switch that in turn drives a high current relay. Very low voltage drop.
The self contained starters have a good power edge over the corded versions.
The Brits really like those spool valve engines. I bought one of these back in 1982 and had it on a 2 meter Fokker D VII.
It ran OK but the carb was problematic. Wound up with a good old Super Tigre MAG type carb.
A bit square looking .Reminds me of Laser engines a bit.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
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25 Posts
Here's the skinny:Bore:1.11 in (28.20 mm)Carb Type:barrel 2 Needle ValveCrank Type:Ball BearingCrankshaft Threads:M7 x 1mmCylinder Type:AACCylinders:SingleDisplacement:.91 cu. in. (14.91 cc)Engine (Only) Weight:18.34 oz/520g,18.34 oz/520gMuffler Type:CastMuffler Weight:2.12 oz/60gRecommended Fuel:GlowStroke:0.94 in (24.00 mm)Total Weight:20.46 oz/580g
Thanks, I may already have one! The shank is too short for a large spinner and can only fit one nut on with the washer, and just don't have time to go shopping for a thin back plate spinner, but know I can get the cone nut from the LHS for now. Have the SIG fly in this coming weekend, and it needs to be flown or a certain crunch type fellow will be a little peaved.
I make up a piloted primary nut that fits into a counter-bored prop. Allows for a jam nut with plenty of room for the spinner and threads to spare. Similar to the True Turn.
You can also find thread info and store bought True Turn info here:
http://saito-engines.info/prop_nuts.html
You can also find thread info and store bought True Turn info here:
http://saito-engines.info/prop_nuts.html
Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-04-2018 at 06:45 AM.