Welcome to Club SAITO !
08-31-2019, 05:20 AM
08-31-2019, 07:44 AM
Work has a habit of doing that! I was talking with the lineman putting my phone/internet cable back on the pole yesterday and he said the last couple of months he has averaged 136 hours per 2 week pay period. We had 80+ winds Monday night and loss part of a tree which took down the electric meter off the house along with the power and phone lines. Both garage doors were damaged along with all the guttering. Insurance adjusted was out looks like I need a new roof too. Roof coverage in Oklahoma has a percentage based deductible so we're living in fear of the costs.
08-31-2019, 09:26 AM
You know, the heavy castor use by the previous owner really preserved the parts. It was real pita to clean up but everything internal looks really good. The only thing I need is a gasket set and a drive washer. Why people use pliers on drive washers is beside me, I just don't get that whole program.
I made up a tapered mandrel for the drive hubs.
If not buggered too badly, I set them up in the lathe and make a clean up cut. Use a nice, sharp cutter and they can look like new..
I need to get a reamer made up and just start making new hubs from scratch. Of course, could just set the taper up on the lathe compound and cut it with a boring bar.
Need to make up some brass hubs
08-31-2019, 11:28 AM
Man, first time I got to get out and fly and wouldn't you know it, my trusty and reliable 72 would not run right. This is the one I had to replace the cylinder on after a crash broke the exhaust stub off. I thought I had it dialed in back in June, it ran great, but never got off the ground due to the crappy hardware that came with the plane. I have since replaced said crappy hardware, fired up the engine, and it ran somewhat OK but bogged a bit on the top end, then backfired and spun the prop. Scratch one spinner. Put a new spinner on, richend the LSN 1/16th, fired right up, ran pretty good, so ready to fly, right? Nope, it was on the test stand, wind picked the tail up, prop struck the bench, scratch that prop. Found another prop, put it on, fired up the engine, running good, YEAH, not. Started to taxi, tail came up, prop hit the ground, Prop OK, engine will not start. CRAP, back in the trailer.
My trusty and reliable FG-11 though on the LT-40 just purred along, so I flew that plane instead, Flew it backwards, flew a couple Harriers, yes, you CAN Harrier an LT-40, did some inverted passes, yes an LT-40 CAN fly inverted. The only thing I can't do is hover it, too nose heavy. and too heavy in general. Love that plane.
I am going to have to tear down the FA-72 and get some new bearings installed, they make a weird screeching warble, and I should check to make sure the crank is still straight. I don't see any variations in the blade path, but that doesn't mean it is perfectly straight either, which can account for the warbling screech I hear. Bearings are silky smooth when I spin the engine over, so not sure what the noise is yet, but since it isn't running right, might as well tear into it and inspect it in case more than the exhaust flange got damaged.
My trusty and reliable FG-11 though on the LT-40 just purred along, so I flew that plane instead, Flew it backwards, flew a couple Harriers, yes, you CAN Harrier an LT-40, did some inverted passes, yes an LT-40 CAN fly inverted. The only thing I can't do is hover it, too nose heavy. and too heavy in general. Love that plane.
I am going to have to tear down the FA-72 and get some new bearings installed, they make a weird screeching warble, and I should check to make sure the crank is still straight. I don't see any variations in the blade path, but that doesn't mean it is perfectly straight either, which can account for the warbling screech I hear. Bearings are silky smooth when I spin the engine over, so not sure what the noise is yet, but since it isn't running right, might as well tear into it and inspect it in case more than the exhaust flange got damaged.
09-01-2019, 12:32 AM
Gary or okc did you guys get stuck with any of these over your way back in the day. Baby austin a30 with a wicked 28bhp
looking forward to seeing pinky run, wood or composite prop?
On the fa182 the air bleed screws should be slightly above half way, some guys say if you can fit a t pin in the gap your close, mine ended up slightly staggered, like the owner after it's first flight in the h9 taylorcraft, perfect match to that airframe.
09-01-2019, 12:39 AM
Dave i thought this pic may tickle your fancy. Took it on the way back from a car festival out in the wheatbelt at york, Stopped in at a country town called beverley and it was stuck in the front window of a really old anglican church. Even anglicans seem to have a sense of humour now
09-01-2019, 03:07 AM
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50 pipe
Thanks too,Gary, Mike has fixed me up, I may run into something else, if so I'll holler.
Pete, that's a great one, humour is good.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-01-2019 at 03:12 AM. Reason: Add photo
09-01-2019, 05:01 AM
If the engine is FULLY broke in that indicates an air leak somewhere Crunchy, that is IF you're not running the hsn too rich. Easy mistake to make on airbleed carbs and one I've done myself many times. The other mistake I've made with airbleed carbs is trying to get the idle rpm down where a twin needle carb runs. Forget it, that will never happen. Without a lsn the idle rpm MUST be slightly higher, just how it is.
09-01-2019, 10:09 AM
Gary or okc did you guys get stuck with any of these over your way back in the day. Baby austin a30 with a wicked 28bhp
looking forward to seeing pinky run, wood or composite prop?
On the fa182 the air bleed screws should be slightly above half way, some guys say if you can fit a t pin in the gap your close, mine ended up slightly staggered, like the owner after it's first flight in the h9 taylorcraft, perfect match to that airframe.
How intuitive is that?
No sir Pete. In fact I had long wanted an A-30 or an early A-40 Austin but alas, never landed one. Had my mind made up to build a nice A series 1275 up for transplantation .
I did land three Austin Mini 1000 down south in Canada. That acquisition in turn led to a stateside search that netted no less than six Austin America parts cars. Those cars in turn gave up their stick shift 1275 engines.
I rebuilt all six, sold three and put the other three in the Minis. The 1000 engines were also rebuilt and sold back to Canadian Mini owners Back then money was very scarce so I did much wheeling and dealing , mostly with Britbikes but at times, with Brit cars.
I would still entertain an A series Austin or even an American Austin Bantam. Not too many cars that interest me nowadays . Perhaps the Austin just because I never had the urge satisfied back in the day.
09-01-2019, 12:08 PM
If the engine is FULLY broke in that indicates an air leak somewhere Crunchy, that is IF you're not running the hsn too rich. Easy mistake to make on airbleed carbs and one I've done myself many times. The other mistake I've made with airbleed carbs is trying to get the idle rpm down where a twin needle carb runs. Forget it, that will never happen. Without a lsn the idle rpm MUST be slightly higher, just how it is.
I just wanted to check what I was thinking was right
09-01-2019, 12:31 PM
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Gary, in early 1962 a representative from the Electronics Institute in Pittsburgh, Pa came out to our farm to sign me up, he drove a Vauxhall and said it had a British A-40 engine, is that the same as you mentioned.
Mike, the 182 you sent me has the carb rebuild kits in it installed by me, they have the AB screws at half closed, they seem to be fine, maybe on Geeks say so I should rethink that. In fact I will. Thanks Glow.
Mike, the 182 you sent me has the carb rebuild kits in it installed by me, they have the AB screws at half closed, they seem to be fine, maybe on Geeks say so I should rethink that. In fact I will. Thanks Glow.
09-01-2019, 04:43 PM
09-01-2019, 05:33 PM
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Fox EZ Just metered carb barrel.
Saito 65 metered carb barrel
Not that I know of, metered carbs have tiny/fine slots in the barrel that are exposed more and less to the fuel inlet as the barrel rotates. They have an air bleed trim to compensate for differing fuels, prop loads etc. The Saito 30 has no metering capability at but is a fie linear carb.
Two examples, Fox EZ Just and Saito early 65.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-01-2019 at 06:08 PM.
09-01-2019, 08:33 PM
Moderator
Several of you helped me with my special needs Saito FA80 a few weeks ago. It's come a long way, but still not quite behaving satisfactorily.
To summarize, it was in a lot of stuff of unknown age and use. I cleaned out the castor gum and put all new orings. I'm sure the timing is right, there are no air leaks, and no bent or broken parts. Compression is very good. Saito glow plug is new.
The problem I have now is that when I follow Saito's tuning procedure, I get a very rich idle that cannot be leaned out enough. If I lean it out enough to run even smooth/rich the top end leans out and dies. If I then richen the top, I have to lean the bottom more which makes it impossible to have the top rich enough no matter how much I turn the HSN out. I've tried starting with the LSN flush with the throttle arm and also 1 turn in. It doesn't seem to matter.
The best I got was a 2400 rpm idle that accelerated nicely but went up to 3050 when I applied glow heat. At that setting, it idled high when I reduced the throttle from full and then steadily dropped RPM to a stumbling 2400 due to cooling the glow plug (I assume). That idle would only last about 30 seconds before it died. When I leaned it out more, I found that the engine couldn't run at 3/4 throttle, although it could at full.
So the symptom is a LSN that doesn't have enough effect at idle and has too much effect at WOT.
Any more thoughts? I'm thinking of sending it to Saito at this point, or maybe just selling it for parts.
To summarize, it was in a lot of stuff of unknown age and use. I cleaned out the castor gum and put all new orings. I'm sure the timing is right, there are no air leaks, and no bent or broken parts. Compression is very good. Saito glow plug is new.
The problem I have now is that when I follow Saito's tuning procedure, I get a very rich idle that cannot be leaned out enough. If I lean it out enough to run even smooth/rich the top end leans out and dies. If I then richen the top, I have to lean the bottom more which makes it impossible to have the top rich enough no matter how much I turn the HSN out. I've tried starting with the LSN flush with the throttle arm and also 1 turn in. It doesn't seem to matter.
The best I got was a 2400 rpm idle that accelerated nicely but went up to 3050 when I applied glow heat. At that setting, it idled high when I reduced the throttle from full and then steadily dropped RPM to a stumbling 2400 due to cooling the glow plug (I assume). That idle would only last about 30 seconds before it died. When I leaned it out more, I found that the engine couldn't run at 3/4 throttle, although it could at full.
So the symptom is a LSN that doesn't have enough effect at idle and has too much effect at WOT.
Any more thoughts? I'm thinking of sending it to Saito at this point, or maybe just selling it for parts.
09-02-2019, 01:09 AM
American austin bantam i'd never heard of or seen, real cute car. Those 1275 minis used to thrash much bigger opponents in full race trim.
Jester have you tried tuning it with no fuel tank pressure?
Dave i like the brass inlet tube on the fa65
09-02-2019, 02:51 AM
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Saito 50 to 80 rebuild kit.
Jester, since the needle seat for the high speed adjustment does not move, set it first for the max rpm at full throttle. Not 300 rpm rich or you'll end up chasing your tail trying to compensate for that. Leave it for now. Now proceed to adjust the LS for the best transition, be willing sacrifice the lowest idle in favor of the best transition. Be happy with 2,000 to 2,200. 1,800 is good but not necessary.
Jester, if somewhere along them line your spray bar became, "bell mouthed" from someone screwing the LS in too far, you could benefit from this. At Horizon, Search Saito E and it will come up.
Back to the 182 air bleeds screws. If there were an air leak the air bleed screws would need to be more closed to compensate for the extra air leaking in to the system.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-02-2019 at 03:14 AM. Reason: Add photo
09-02-2019, 04:21 AM
Jester
sounds like you have an air leak in the high speed needle. To check the theory cut a piece of fuel tubing about a 1/4” long push it over the threads and then screw the high speed needle back on. It will seal the up the high speed. That little trick has saved me a lot of headache.
If it solved the problem then get the carb rebuild kit and all is good. I also seen my friends have the same problem and a carb kit fixed it.
sounds like you have an air leak in the high speed needle. To check the theory cut a piece of fuel tubing about a 1/4” long push it over the threads and then screw the high speed needle back on. It will seal the up the high speed. That little trick has saved me a lot of headache.
If it solved the problem then get the carb rebuild kit and all is good. I also seen my friends have the same problem and a carb kit fixed it.
09-02-2019, 05:26 AM
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I did rebuild the carb, but I'll double check it and will try with a piece of tubing.
I got the carb upgrade kit. So I know the spraybar assembly is in good shape. I verified everything by blowing into a piece of fuel tubing while blocking the air passages.
Yes, I've tried it with and without pressure. Although I think tuning it without muffler pressure would make this problem worse, since it would mean having to open the HSN more.
Correct me if I'm thinking about this wrong, but it seems to me that an air leak at the HSN would cause symptoms the other way around. Since intake vacuum is highest at idle, that would cause the idle mix to go lean, requiring the LSN to come out to compensate. That would make the midrange rich but with a good idle and good top end, right? My problem is the opposite- mine needs to go in more.
I got the carb upgrade kit. So I know the spraybar assembly is in good shape. I verified everything by blowing into a piece of fuel tubing while blocking the air passages.
Yes, I've tried it with and without pressure. Although I think tuning it without muffler pressure would make this problem worse, since it would mean having to open the HSN more.
Correct me if I'm thinking about this wrong, but it seems to me that an air leak at the HSN would cause symptoms the other way around. Since intake vacuum is highest at idle, that would cause the idle mix to go lean, requiring the LSN to come out to compensate. That would make the midrange rich but with a good idle and good top end, right? My problem is the opposite- mine needs to go in more.
Last edited by jester_s1; 09-02-2019 at 05:44 AM.
09-02-2019, 05:53 AM
I did rebuild the carb, but I'll double check it and will try with a piece of tubing.
I got the carb upgrade kit. So I know the spraybar assembly is in good shape. I verified everything by blowing into a piece of fuel tubing while blocking the air passages.
Yes, I've tried it with and without pressure. Although I think tuning it without muffler pressure would make this problem worse, since it would mean having to open the HSN more.
Correct me if I'm thinking about this wrong, but it seems to me that an air leak at the HSN would cause symptoms the other way around. Since intake vacuum is highest at idle, that would cause the idle mix to go lean, requiring the LSN to come out to compensate. That would make the midrange rich but with a good idle and good top end, right? My problem is the opposite- mine needs to go in more.
I got the carb upgrade kit. So I know the spraybar assembly is in good shape. I verified everything by blowing into a piece of fuel tubing while blocking the air passages.
Yes, I've tried it with and without pressure. Although I think tuning it without muffler pressure would make this problem worse, since it would mean having to open the HSN more.
Correct me if I'm thinking about this wrong, but it seems to me that an air leak at the HSN would cause symptoms the other way around. Since intake vacuum is highest at idle, that would cause the idle mix to go lean, requiring the LSN to come out to compensate. That would make the midrange rich but with a good idle and good top end, right? My problem is the opposite- mine needs to go in more.
Just tune for best high end and go fly. It will sort it self out.
09-02-2019, 05:59 AM