rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Thanks Jim.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Al:

Sorry, I gave you a bum number for your engine. The SAI450R3D1112 pipe you found is the one you want, it has the same shape as the one you got and does have the tap.

MoreHP:

OK, you’re in as number 366. Welcome to you too.

Bill.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

plasticjoe,

Did you really set the valves to 5 ten-thousandanths??? If it is really 5 thousandths (.005) try 2 thousandths (.002). The lesser clearance will keep things in the valve train a little more orderly. If you managed a .0005 set-up, you are a more skilled mechanic than you know!!

Good luck with the engine.

oceansfiftyseven

Hello,
I would like to join club Saito! I have a .56, an .82a, and a new .40a. I have a question about my 82. When I back the throttle down to idle the engine rpm will rise for 3-4 seconds and then settle back down to idle. It only does this surge thing once every time I back the throttle off. It makes for some fast landings! Anyway, I removed the intake manifold and lubed the orings as well as the throttle barrel thinking that it might have a leak there. But it did not help. Otherwise it is an excellent running engine. Has anybody else had this problem? Any Ideas to fix this? Thanks, Richard

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Rich, your low end needle is probably still on the rich side. One way to check it is by using the pinch test.

IronCross

Anyone know the thickness of the aluminum in a can of Bud ?.... Maybe I could get into the "shim" material supply business

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I know you can cut the side walls of an aluminum Coke can with a knife so aluminum gaskets are easy to make.

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

No problem on the part number, thanks for ur input.

Although I have the wrong part, no tap, could I still use it and basically replace the tap with a Perry Pump such as:
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG61&P=7[/link]

I have never used one of these things and from what I understand there are some benefits. Maybe it is overkill on a Saito 82 too. Anyway, if it should work, I would like to try/learn. Thoughts?

Thanks
Al

Ernie Misner

Bill, have the plain aluminum valve seats on the AAC models proven to be any kind of a problem?

Thanks,

Ernie

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

RLM and JoePlastic:

Setting the valve lash at 0.0005� isn’t difficult, and it’s the setting I use for all Saitos with the older grind cams. Until the new grind cams, with the quieting ramps were introduced, that is where I recommended setting all the engines. With the later engines set at five tenths the engine still runs fine, but you don’t get the benefit of the ramp. With the lash set at 0.0015� (one thousandth more) you still have the valve timing desired, and the anti-rattle given by the ramps.

Oceans57:

Welcome sir. You are now in as member number 367 in Club Saito. You can send your initiation fee and the first six months dues to me by PayPal. Haw. Seriously, no initiation and no dues. Just an aggregation of people who run and like Saito engines.

And agreement with Mike (Rajul) about your low end probably being still richer than needed.

IC:

Memory is telling me drink cans are about 0.007� thick – I don’t have one handy to check – but they are tempered aluminum so they are stronger than the thickness would make you think. The cowlings on my Tiggerkitty were made from Schlitz cans.

Al:

I prefer to use only muffler pressure for fuel delivery, but I have several planes with the Perry pumps. They make the tank position much more flexible, but they add some more difficulty in tuning the engine. All I can say is get one and play with it, if you like it continue. They do work nicely when set correctly.

Ernie:

The valve seats in the AAC cylinder are not plain aluminum, that’s where many people have made an expensive mistake, and others have skirted the lip of the chasm. The entire combustion chamber, as well as the cylinder wall, is plated with hard chrome. The valve seat is this thin plating. Some have lapped their valves and cut through the plating, the immediate erosion of the then plain aluminum has made them buy new cylinders or junk the engine. Others haven’t cut through, but they are probably on borrowed time. I have never recommended anything more than cleaning the seat with a pencil eraser or similar, in case of a valve leak I have always said to buy a new valve in an AAC engine.

The older ABC engines, with the bronze seats, can be lapped safely, even though I think it’s wasted effort.

So why is valve lapping a wasted effort? Think about it. When the valve and seat are at the same temperature, as they will be when you lap them, both the valve face and valve seat will be the same distance from the center line of the valve. What happens when the engine warns up? Right. Thermal expansion. Even if the valve and the cylinder head are at the same temperature the two parts do not expand at the same rate, your nicely lapped seat and valve face are no longer meeting at the same position. If the valve leaks without having been lapped, no matter how well you lap the faces it will almost certainly leak after the engine warms up. And you stand a good chance of ruining the cylinder.

Bill.

More HP

My Feedback: (2)

Bill now you got me really confused on the lapping of bronze valve seats, at operating temps different expansion rates and all, I understand that... but still the valve has an angle, the seat has an angle. I don't know how to explain what I'm thinking, so nevermind. Wouldn't the chromed valve seats in a new head also have different rate of expansion than the steel valve?

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

Oh yea, we have some "plastic film" at work that thickness. So I brought a couple pieces home. And as per usual, setting gaps on points and the such working on old cars and lawnmowers, just snug the gap film in there to where it takes a slight tug to pull it out. Makes sense on the gasket for the valve covers, that can only help I would think. I'll have to ring the LHS to get a set on order. Thanks for the help.

mandtra

My Feedback: (29)

What are most of you (fuel) running in your saitos? I run 30% HELI I have a few of them 72, 91 100 and love them all but recently have been trying to get the 72 to run inverted and on 15% with no luck. wont idle good and runs rough. even when i go back to the 30% it runs better , but not great. I dont think it likes being inverted. it's on a seagull space walker and the 72 has about 2 gals thru it.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bill, I presume you are the chairperson of this esteemed and most popular club in RCU? Do you have a committee behind you?

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I use 15% Coolpower with 2ounces of Klotz castor added to the gallon for all my Saitos. Runs great, no bearing issues so far.

Check your tank height wrt your carb position when you invert the engine. Should be within 1/4-1/2 inch height difference.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Bill- I certainly hope that you found the Schlitz can and didn't drink that stuff for the gasket material!!! That's worse that Falstaff.

XJet

Remember that when you lower the nitro you will also have to lean out the needles.

If it's still not running sweet on 30% when inverted then odds are (as another poster said) your tank may be too high. Also check that you're running a nice fresh OS-F plug -- that can make a hell of a difference.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

MoreHP:

If I understand what you’re asking about, valves and their seats are commonly ground at very slightly different angles. The seat is cut at 45 degrees, and the valve is cut at 44 degrees. This gives effectively a line contact for the sealing, any lapping done will also defeat this line contact.

Yes, the chrome plated seat will expand more than the bronze seat at the same temperature, making your valve lapping even more of a wasted effort.

Mandtra:

You are added as member number 368 in Club Saito.

My preference for fuel is 15% Omega, I’ve never seen the need for higher nitro. More power? Bigger engine. Simple. Many people do use 20% and 30%, and are very happy with it. The only thing I insist on is 3-4% castor oil in the fuel, other than that, whatever suits your fancy.
All the Saito engines run just as well inverted as upright, so long as the fuel system is done correctly. As Rajul and Xjet mentioned, check your tank height.

Rajul:

We have an ad hoc committee here, Hobbsy takes most of the propellor and installation questions, I try to stay on top of the mechanicals, and W8YE fills in for both of us.

Many of my posts are dashed off with maximum speed, just a few words. Others have required consideration, cogitation, contemplation, and composition. On some posts, with a fair bit of technicality involved and maybe a picture or two, I have spent several hours getting ready for the thread. And if you check my post count, this is my post number 19,999. A lot of time has been spent here. Just trying to help.

I am the sole keeper of the membership list though. In the early days SigMan (thread originator) approved all new entries, but I haven’t seen him for months. The only thing I’ve considered for adding someone to the roll is Saito ownership, and membership in good standing in RCU.

Barry:

When I designed the Tiggerkitty I sized the nacelles to use Coke cans for the cowlings. Then when I went to the 7-11 store for a six-pack I found the Schlitz “Malt Liquor� cost less than Coke, so what could I do? Haw. I’m not a beer drinker, but the dark Schlitz product didn’t taste bad. Falstaff I know from nothing.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

WR, you stay up almost as late as I git up early. If any of you fellas have some Saito 1.50 numbers I'd like to see them, I have a GoldBerg Tiger 120 comming for mine. I'm going to use a Mejzlik 16x8 if I can get 9,500 plus. The Enya 1.55 is tempting me mightily also.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Mine is about 9200 with a APC 16-8

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Jim, I'm going to run mine on 15% PowerMaster after a while, first time on 15% nitro, I think.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

What's a good plug to run on them ? also is it beneficial to have onboard spark ? saito .91S here

IronCross

I run 15 percent PowerMaster in my Saitos... Run just great for the most part...
I ran my "good" .72 inverted in a WM Dago Red and it ran great... No onboard glow etc needed... So they will run inverted if everything is right, tank postition etc....

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some of my Saitos have the original Saito SS plug. Some have the now discontinued Hanger 9 four stroke Super Plug, and most have the OS "F" plug.

They all run about the same.

Genesis_twin

19,999 POSTS!!! Bill, you are a Saito-masochist