Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

Can someone tell me what issues the FA 80 carb upgrade kit solves (SAI80144)?

Thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Midrange richness.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

Here’s a shot of the tools that came with my latest Saitos, both FA-82 engines.

Hex keys in 1.5, 2, and 2.5 mm sizes. A box wrench to fit the valve adjuster lock nuts, and a feeler strip 0.1 mm thick.

The feeler strip should be thrown away, go to your local auto supply and get a feeler of 0.0015� thickness. This is just a hair off the 0.04 mm clearance that should be used on all Saitos for best engine power and valve gear life.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

A little more on the tool kit.

Had I not blocked it with the tools, you could have read that this is the kit for all Saitos from the FA-45s up through the FA-100 engines. Possibly the FA-125 as well. In other words, all the mid and small block engines get the same package.

Bill.

Air-brush dude

I don't get a number?

IronCross

Did you send Mr R the initiation fee ???

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

All:

Bookkeeping update – Checking the member list I found four with two numbers.

This list of four shows their correct (lower) numbers, the higher duplicates have been blanked. Please check, if you are one of the four correct your data. Thanks.

164 Thinano
181 TheShirt
279 SaCCal72
275 Bob Yeager

Numbers that are now empty are 201, 264, 286, and 323.

Bill.

stallwart

Yes, this morning I leaned the low end slightly and the problem disappeared. I have kept the high speed mix on the rich side, since it is a new engine, but had it quit in air twice. That has me wondering now.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Bill, exactly the same kit I got for the 82. But there was additionally a small screwdriver and a wrench for the 100. I guess I ain't gonna blame the LHS for this discrepancy. On the shim, have been using a 1.5 mils all along, and that ain't Saito's.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

AirBrush:

Apologies, sir. I somehow missed your post at the top of this page, but the result is a lower number for you. I have entered your user name as member number 201 in Club Saito.

If your Saito suffered no visible damage when you tried to fly through the fence, put it on a stand and run it, see what happens.

If the push rod tubes are bent take the rocker covers off, pull the rockers off (keep them separate, yu’ll want to put them back in the same place) and see if you can pull the push rods out. Often the tubes can be bent without bending the push rods. Roll them on a flat surface, make sure they aren’t bent. Again, note which was intake and which was exhaust.

Undo the four screws holding the cylinder to the crank case and lift the cylinder just enough to free the push rod tubes. Do not pull the piston out of the bore. It doesn’t matter which one is which here, switching them wont matter, but be careful with the rubber seals, they’re only sold with new tubes.

Use drill bits or steel rods of appropriate size, straighten the tubes. You may not be successful, but so far I’ve been able to straighten all the damaged tubes that have come here.

If the push rods weren’t bent you can now put the engine back together and run it.

If the crank bearings are bad you will hear the noise, I don’t think you would have damaged them in the crash. If they are noisy you’ll want to go back in and replace them. Might want to do it anyway, just to have them fresh.

Send your email address, I’ll send a file covering tear down and reassembly if you’d like, and a copy of Saito Notes covering about everything else.

Stallwart:

Sounds like it’s time to start leaning the LS mixture. Been covered many times here. Or send me youe email address, I’ll send a copy of Saito Notes – covered there too.

Bill.

Jonathan.Lam

[sm=drowning.gif]HELP!!![sm=drowning.gif]

can someone help me on tuning the saito fa 125 as i am having a bit of trouble. i have never ever got stuck on tuning engines, this is my first 4 stroke so someone help me:

when i open full throttle the engine starts to stumble and it wants to cut off. what should i tune? high speed needle or low speed needle?

can someone tell me how many turns the high speed needle is theirs? also how many turns for the low seed needle?

thanks

jonthan

IronCross

Mister R
An interesting discovery at least for me... As mentioned in previous posts I have an apparently !QUOT!Early!QUOT! .72... It had the weak backplate and the carb broke off... I replaced it with a newer reinforces backplate but still had problems with the intake oring at
the head leaking... I finally ended up wiring the intake down and running it that way... I am in the process of putting the engine in
another plane.. I wanted to put an air filter on the stack but the fit to the motor mount was just too tight and the aluminum stack came off the mounting bracket... No air filter on the side mounted carbs I guess... Even had ground out a little on the motor mount for clearance but no go...
Anyway since I pulled the carb off to put a new stack on it I thought I would try a replacement intake manifold I had gotten a while back just for grins... What a differance... The old manifold would literaly fall into place... The replacement was a very tight fit.. I even lubed it to get it to go in more easily... I put it together with the new manifold and it is one tight setup... I can't move the manifold at all... The old one had a lot of slop in it... Now I am wondering if somewhere along the line Saito increased the OD of the manifold a couple of thousands.... Apparently the oring problem is not limited to the backplate flexing... Dollars to doughnuts this is going to take care of the oring problem on this engine anyway.... I don't have a mic so I can't measure the difference in OD on these... Don't know if this is just a fluke or they actually did change the OD slightly... The old manifold does not appear to be damamged and I can see no sign of wear from vibration etc...

Thunderchild

Another one for Prof. Bill Robison

Bill,

I have been using a standard (self-mixed) fuel of 10% nitro, 4% castor and 16% coolpower synthetic oil for all my engines.

On the weekend, one of my fellow flyers said that he had been running Castrol M racing oil in his engines for six months without any apparent problems. I read the back of the bottle and found that it is a castor/synth oil mix formulated for racing two and four stoke engines (motorcyeles) that are designed to run to around 20,000 plus RPM.

QUESTION

Is this oil okay to run in my beloved Saito's or am I asking for trouble ditching my castor/coolpower cocktail in favour of the (much cheaper) pre-mixed racing oil?

BTW

AN update on the 125 that lost 1,000 RPM and was returned for warranty investigation. I was told on the wekend that the engine is being replaced under warranty. No explanation as to what was found. I have asked the owner to query and try and get us all an answer. Will let you know if they cough up with an explanation.

Thunderchild

davids24beer

Just broke in a SA 100, really love this engine real power house. Unfortunatley on the 4th flight lost control of plane (reason unknown) and went down nose first. I had a question about the replacing the spray bar and got a answer but I need a little more detail in replacing it. Also the motor turns over ok good compresion and no bearing noise or other visible signs of damage. Would you send it in to Horizen to be checked out or just repair carb and run it?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jonathan- the- Chinky- Boy:

Send me your email address, I’ll send a copy of Saito Notes, all tuning is covered, and that will save all of us having to type it again.

I’ve put you in as member number 264 in Club Saito. Welcome.

IC:

I suspect your “New� pipe was really one of the older ones. A few years ago Saito decreased the size of the intake pipes, probably to keep the mixture velocity higher at low throttle, and make the idle better. I first noticed this when I ordered a new pipe for my FA-80, it was a much looser fit than the original. I knocked the ding out of the old pipe and used it again because it was a much better fit.

If I ever pull the 80 down again, and if I remember to, I’ll check both diameters and post the result.

It is also possible the o-ring problems on the FA-72 started with this change, as you speculated.

TC:

I have used a lot of Castrol “R� pure castor oil, I’ve never used the “M� version. So far as I know, “Real� Castrol products from the Wakefield Oil Company are no longer sold in the USA. When I had my shop I did sell Castrol, but it was packaged by some other outfit here. If your buddy is having good results using the M I see no reason you should not use it, so long as there is enough castor in the blend to keep your final mix around 4% castor oil. Or you add enough to bring it up. If it’s no more than 70% synthetic you should be fine. And saving money.

Please do let us know what you find out about the FA-125.

Bill.

Thunderchild

Thanks Bill,

I'll check what the blend ratio is and try it if it looks ok.

TC

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Bill- WD 6502 and yes, CMP was useful. So was BEQ and BNE for copy protected programs...if you were looking for those kinds of things. (g) So was stuffing everything into page zero if you could for speed. I gave up when the Motorola 68000 came out. Bought a few books on it. Couldn't juggle 8 data registers, 7 address ones, and an address stack that were each a word long. That reminds me of pushing and pulling stacks. Sheesh.

My .82 came with the same tools as yours, Bill. The 1.25 did come with the big wrench. I wish Saito would supply larger stickers for fins, etc.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bill, here's one for you.
Saito .72
Davis Diesel=ABC mix
Prop==Graupner 12.5x7 3 blade.
Gadget plug.

IronCross

You could be right Bill on my new pipe being an old one... Can I tell by the numbers ?... I am going to order another one and see what I get... Dang, Saito parts are a nightmare to keep track of...

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Can you send me the file for tear down and reassembly also [sm=confused.gif]

Thanks !

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Bill, if you can post it as a pdf file here, it will be great.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all, I've got a well used 4*40 and supposedly fairly unused used Saito 45. I had the 45 in a Senior for awhile. Had it inverted in the 4* also. Could never get a good idle inverted. Mounted it sideways in the 4* today and got it dialed in. Super idle and great transition. Tried APC 12x4, 11x5, 11x6, Zinger 12x5, MA 11X5. RPM range was 8200 - 10,600 ready to fly. It seemed to fly best with the APC 12x4 and 11x5. Would this pull the APC 12.25x 3.75?
I have an 8 oz tank, seems to be good for about 20 minutes, I might put in a 6 oz tank. Plane weighs about 4.75 lbs presently. It is a little lacking in the uplines, but flying on the wing the whole time.

Is there a certain rpm that this engine works best at? After today I have about 2-3 hours on this engine. Is that enough to get a # into the club? I've got a used 65 with two flights on it, plane didn't survive.

Also, it looks like I scored a good deal on a Sig Something Extra, is the Saito 72 enough for this one?

Had a great day at the field. Thanks in advance, MikeB

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Hobbsy

Tell me about that tach you use. Mine is a combination tach and volt meter and sometimes works kind of screwy.

dutchalltheway

Guys, I would like your input please,
I apologize in advance, since I am sure this question has been asked before

I am planning on purchasing the Saito .91 or .100 for my Funtana X 50.
I run Powermaster 15% nitro, 18%castor for my O.S 2-stroke engine. Should I use a different blend for the Saito engine??

I read somewhere, that someone was using 30% heli fuel in the Saito, what do you guys think/recommend??

Thanks so much in advance for any help....

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

That's the TNC tach currently manufactured by Fromeco. I think Hobbsy also has the original TNC tach, like mine. Best in the hobby