Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My SABBO MMO, all in one, the best I ever used.

Glowgeek

Having trouble getting the rocker shaft screws out of the 180. Even though I heated the cylinder I sheared off the tips of my last two gunsmithing screwdriver tips. Aaaaaargh!!

This 180 is definitely a low time sample but someone had worked on the top end before. There were nicks all around the circumference of the valve spring retainers from whatever tool they used to compress the springs. I'll bet they used red loctite on those shaft screws!

At this point I'm just going to have to attempt installing the new springs, retainers and keepers with the rocker arms in place.

End of conniption fit

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Hmm... I can see a conniption fit is very appropriate!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Courtesy of a Sledge Hammer Mechanic.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Slight shift in topic, what is the largest wood prop a Saito .82 can swing? I am curious about using a scale size prop on a future project.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I don't know what others might have used in the past, but I have successfully used a 14x6 on my own 82 with 10% fuel in a Funtana 40. Granted, the Funtana is lighter than any scale model of that same size.

Just my $.02

Bob

Glowgeek

The material is irrelevant except for how it affects transition time. The load is based solely on diameter, pitch and airfoil design. I'm guessing an fa82 could swing a 17x4 at around 7400 or 16x6 around 7100 maybe. I have not tried either.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

yeeaa I know I should get some of that X stuff

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Zingers un load an engine a little more than the other big name props like Zoar and 3W.

but after seeing the review I would say, a 15x4 if you want it to rev up a little more than 8300
Saito FA-82a

Jim

GraniteGuru

I have 2 older Saito FA120's that are in great shape but they have an old style bleed type carb on them . Any of you guys converted these to a more modern carb style found on the newer Saito glows? I have a CH ignition on both of them running glow fuel. What would I need to buy to convert them?

Glowgeek

I love the Saito airbleed carbs with the metered fuel passage on the throttle barrel. They transition as smooth as glass.

The modern two needle carb for the 120S (special) is p,n. SAI120S821E. They are obsolete and out of stock most everywhere. You could try the classifieds or maybe someone here has an extra carb. If you have an older 120 Fathead it may have used an airbleed carb as well, not sure.

acdii

Do the 180 and 120 share the same exhaust outlet threads?

GraniteGuru

They are both fatheads. I guess I just don't know how to adjust them as well (or at all frankly) other than the high speed needle. The old directions are very poor Japanese. I don't understand about rotating the copper color needle body.

GraniteGuru

I believe they do. I used a flex pipe off a 300T (150) on my 120

GraniteGuru

Do you know the approximate starting position of the bleed valve?

Glowgeek

The end of the airbleed screw should be centered in the airbleed hole. It usually won't take more than a turn either direction to get the idle steady.

Also important to note: On an airbleed carb, turning the airbleed screw clockwise will richen the mixture and counterclockwise will lean it. It's exactly the opposite from how the high speed needle works because you are adjusting air flow instead of fuel flow.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I don't know why but I saw this and thought he could be a friend of Pete's.

GraniteGuru

Thats the way my 182 Twin works. Ok good. That gives me a starting point. So, on this carb there is an airbleed screw and also it says to turn the whole needle body to lean and richen. So I have the high speed needle, the airbleed screw AND the needle body adjustments. Don't the airbleed screws and needle body adjustments do the same thing?

Glowgeek

The airbleed screw (ABS) is for idle adjustment, the high speed needle (HSN) is for wide open throttle adjustment and the spray bar adjustment (SBA) (if it has one that can be rotated) is for midrange adjustment.

All three adjustments affect the air to fuel mix at their respective rpm range.

Start by adjusting the HSN to peak the engine rpm. This must be a sustainable peak where the engine rpm does not sag at wot for at least 30 seconds.

Next adjust the ABS so the engine will idle at 2200 rpm steady for at least 30 seconds.

Next go back to the HSN and readjust for sustained peak if needed.

Next check the engine at midrange rpms (4000-7000) to see if its rich or lean. Let it run for 30 seconds at midrange and check the cylinder temp by feel. If it's getting really hot and not blowing much smoke it's running too lean. Turn the SBA to richen the midrange mixture. If at midrange the engine is running rough and smoking like a freight train it's too rich, turn the SBA to lean the mixture.

Edit: A good starting point for the SBA is with the index marks lined up.

When all is adjusted good the engine should be able to idle at 2200 rpm indefinitely, transition from idle to wot without coughing or stumbling and it should run smooth at midrange with a visible smoke at all rpms except idle.

All that should be needed once everything looks good is to richen the HSN 300-400 rpm down from peak (with a full fuel tank) before flying.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

"
ouch !!

"friend of Pete's ?" LOL, naa, Pete wouldn't have a friend that would do that unless he had drank 12 beers

that's when you say "thank god I don't have a rc plane with a 20 inch prop on it"

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I consider the old air bleed trimmed carb to be a very good one, I have a couple of 65's with them. The air bleed hole is covered up the instant the carb opns.

Metering slot, 65 carb

Glowgeek

Yeah Dave, the 65 runs wonderfully at all rpms. Those fuel metering barrels do a better job at keeping a steady idle than the 2N versions too, imo. I think it's because the barrel is in a fixed location whereas the 2N barrels can move in and out a little at idle.

I've learned when setting up a Saito 2N carb throttle cable to make sure the cable exits the firewall to provide a little outward tension, to lightly pull the barrel out at idle, not push it in against the spring. That setup gives me a more solid idle rpm every time.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

hey guys, I quickly made up an Aileron Deflection Measuring Tool last night. you guys can make one up for your selves. it works, but I need to make a nicer one. maybe stain it pretty. plus I think mine is off by 1mm
don't tell anyone about it LOL

Jim

Hyjinx

Nice.
Necessity, the step mother of adaptation.
Didn't come from China either.
Nice

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

thank you for the good words! it just popped in my head and I went and made it.
a funny thing about, that Word Models P-40. people recommend only 5mm of Aileron throw. that's not much at all.

BTW, the plane has a 57" span and there are guys on Y.T. flying it with 91 Fs in it and one guy has a 26cc gasser in his.

Jim