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Question with fuel spitting out of one of my saito carb. I have checked the clunks, changed the fuel line, changed the low speed needle setting and even the high, carb to fuel tank placement is good. The only thing I have not checked are the o-rings, which I feel would lean the mix if they were bad. I changed out the motor with exact same motor and that motor runs good with no spitting. Engine actually runs good considering...
Ideas,Feedback?
It is a 60t...
Ideas,Feedback?
It is a 60t...
Could be a leaky intake valve. Open throttle to wide open, roll the engine over by hand and listen right at the carb for hissing during the compression stroke. On a twin it helps to remove the glow plug from one cylinder while testing the other.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-23-2020 at 06:19 PM.
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rowdog_14 (06-23-2020)
My Feedback: (5)
Will check...I have noticed spinning the engine a loader than normal sucking/compression sound vs my other to 60t. I did check the clearance on the valves but will perform your suggestion. Thanks
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Thanks Lon, It can't be set up for metric threads, it has nine different gear sets for US threads. I have three of those 50's, one GK one plain and one Black Knight. Oh, black with Chrome rocker covers.
I never thought the cam was the problem. 900 to 1000 rpm loss is never caused solely by a worn cam in my experience. A worn cam can contribute to power loss however.
Have you tried a new glow plug?
Does the engine turn over very freely between compression strokes?
Have you tried a new glow plug?
Does the engine turn over very freely between compression strokes?
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-24-2020 at 02:47 PM.
Yes and yes, it turns over very nicely
By opening the gear housing and resetting the timing, I suppose I could have done it wrong twice you never know...lol Going to be windy tomorrow maybe I'll try again.
Put a tooth pick or something through the glow plug hole so you see when the piston reaches tdc (top dead center). With the rocker covers off rotate the engine in the normal direction until the piston reaches exactly top dead center on the exhaust stroke. You can recognize the exhaust stroke because the exhaust valve will be closing as the engine reaches tdc. Once the piston is at tdc on the exhaust stroke rotate the engine back and forth slightly to both sides of tdc and watch the valves move in opposite directions (one opening while the other is closing). The valves should move equal amounts in opposite directions (opening or closing) with equal crankshaft rotation (clockwise or counterclockwise from tdc).
Hard to explain but works for checking cam timing.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-24-2020 at 04:42 PM.
No need to tear it down again to check the timing Dwayne.
Put a tooth pick or something through the glow plug hole so you see when the piston reaches tdc (top dead center). With the rocker covers off rotate the engine in the normal direction until the piston reaches exactly top dead center on the exhaust stroke. You can recognize the exhaust stroke because the exhaust valve will be closing as the engine reaches tdc. Once the piston is at tdc on the exhaust stroke rotate the engine back and forth slightly to both sides of tdc and watch the valves move in opposite directions (one opening while the other is closing). The valves should move equal amounts in opposite directions (opening or closing) with equal crankshaft rotation (clockwise or counterclockwise from tdc).
Hard to explain but works for checking cam timing.
Put a tooth pick or something through the glow plug hole so you see when the piston reaches tdc (top dead center). With the rocker covers off rotate the engine in the normal direction until the piston reaches exactly top dead center on the exhaust stroke. You can recognize the exhaust stroke because the exhaust valve will be closing as the engine reaches tdc. Once the piston is at tdc on the exhaust stroke rotate the engine back and forth slightly to both sides of tdc and watch the valves move in opposite directions (one opening while the other is closing). The valves should move equal amounts in opposite directions (opening or closing) with equal crankshaft rotation (clockwise or counterclockwise from tdc).
Hard to explain but works for checking cam timing.
I made a sorta degree wheel using a school protractor, not 100% accurate but it it's good enough to see the intake valve starts to move at about 45 degrees before TDC that seems a bit early to me, btw how do I delete a pic I've already posted? Please ignore second pic.
Spoiler
Last edited by Dwayne; 06-25-2020 at 12:59 PM.
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Dwayne (06-25-2020)
So I decided to ignore the dot on the cam and use my degree thingy and set it up the same as my 91, that is I set it so the intake opens the same as on the 91 and it worked, I'm now getting 8900 on a MA 16X6, much better, thanks for all the help.
Last edited by Dwayne; 06-25-2020 at 01:46 PM.
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to remove a photo just hi-light the photo and click your "back key" I'd do it now but you would not be able to read this
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 06-25-2020 at 12:39 PM.
Had to be something, glad you found it.
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Dwayne (06-25-2020)
My Feedback: (1)
Jim, I'm not surprised that matching the intake opening event between Dwayne's 91 and 120 got the timing right, makes perfect sense. What I am surprised at, or rather pleasantly pleased about is that Dwayne had the wherewithal to recognize it would work. Undoubtedly that's why he asked a few posts ago, "Does the 91 and 120 use the same cam?".
Perhaps Dwayne knows more than he's letting on, or at the very least, more than I gave him credit for. Now I feel a little like I was preaching to the choir.
Perhaps Dwayne knows more than he's letting on, or at the very least, more than I gave him credit for. Now I feel a little like I was preaching to the choir.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-26-2020 at 11:27 AM.