Glowgeek

I'll use it for engines bigger than an FA82 where a larger opening is required.

Interesting thing on the 120 fathead, it was never designed for a velocity stack. The carb body does not have the counterbore for the thick aluminum spacer like the 150/180 does. I used an oring to fill the void. Looks great on the fathead, like it should have had one from the start.

Jesse Open

The choke clips are pretty easy to make. I like to make them from sheet brass. A lot like the velocity stacks and elbows, hard to do for money as they are cheap to buy. I used to make the stacks from brass or aluminum tube using whatever was on hand, usually a socket wrench. Later took to making them from bar stock, not many from tube. Brass choke clips and brass tube make for good solder assembly.

The elbows can be made in many styles. Brass threads are more durable than aluminum threads but if weight is an issue, aluminum wins. I always use SWAK on exhaust threads especially aluminum to aluminum joints.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Does a 90 degree bend like that impact performance from an exhaust flow perspective?

Captcrunch44

boy Dave I gave you all I had.

Captcrunch44

ps capt do you have a keleo ring for the fa200r3 ?[/QUOTE]

nope I don’t have that exhaust

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sorry Mike in Ia. I meant Mike in Ok. I'll be back. I just whipped this one up a few minutes ago, but hadn't down loaded the picture yet. I set it up on a Saito 82-b. It faces straight to rear when snugged down. Would this suit you Okey, thanks.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

There are some cracker jack machinist in this thread! I could see a brass 90 degree adapter as being a good choice for my .82. I want to use it in a Sopwith Baby, (they have the usual rotary engine short nose) if I don't use it my Ryan SC-M/W build which will be my next build. The extra weight of the brass might help balance the Sopwith. Don't let those floats fool you she takes off from land using a simple dolly and lands on the floats on grass. The floats for looks they aren't even waterproof.

Jesse Open

A blast from the past. About 5 years ago a member at RCG needed a 90 deg ell for a close fitting installation of an OS Gemini. I made the one out of a single chunk of brass.

Glowgeek

Gary, I have two of those Gemini twins all cleaned up and waiting for bearings and rings. Both of them, FT-120 & FT-160, are early Gemini l versions. The 160 has the fully machined bronze rods which is good, the 120 has cast bronze rods which is, well, not so good. I wouldnt feel safe spinning either of them over 8500 rpm.

Nice machining work pics btw.

Jesse Open

With good lube, aluminum works well. The recip weight of bronze is the killer.

Glowgeek

Yeeeeup.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

looky looky what I have, a Saito 150, two of the nicest people in the hobby sent it to me. Hobbsy and Capt. you two are the best !!! but I think you got me mixed up with some one else.

that one photo is a bit blurry cause I moved a bit as my wife snapped the photo

hey, it's not a 125, so Pete's still my friend !!

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

aa that's OK! that is very nice of you Pete, but just keep it and maybe make an outback movie with it

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

hummm, would there be a Saito rod that will fit those OS twins

Jim

Jesse Open

Ask a nice guy

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys, I like an odd plane. I would like to build a GeeBee Q Ascender like in my video and link. build it with a span of 65 to 68 inches. I have 2 wings, one is an Edge 540 wing that would be 68 inches long IF I glued the Root Ribs together. and the other is a thicker GeeBee Y wing that would have to be shorten cause it's 82 inch.

I believe the OS twin in the video is a 120, but not sure.

what's your thoughts guys ??

hey, and don't pick on me, cause some of you guys like pink planes LOL

Jim

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums...?th=132561&p=1


looks like it's going backwards>

Monty Python

nope I don’t have that exhaust[/QUOTE]

Ok mate just thought i'd ask, the fa200r3 is very quiet with the standard flex pipes and the keleo ring sounds better imho and easier for fully cowled planes, has a long pipe for exhaust exit, so long i cut mine shorter.

Monty Python

Cool, since i'm pretty lazy i was planning on sending you the whole croc, you can hogtie it and extract the tooth yourself

That geebee q is kinda neat and i like the cackling sound that engine makes which reminds me...a persistant fantasy of mine has been to use a photo of the ex wife as a guide to building an fa125 powered flying broomstick.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I put the best prop driver I had on that engine, the puller wrecked the original while nearly wrecking the puller, it was super stuck. I then did an experiment, I put some Never Seize on the outer surface of the collet, not on the crankshaft, then tightened a prop down tighter than the hub hinges of hades. It popped right off. I don't know if it will pop off years later though.

Glowgeek

I've had some tough to remove prop drive collets. Heat it up with tension on the puller, it's magic. The heat not only expands the aluminum collet but also liquifies the castor (5 min epoxy).

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Love it Jim! You have the full support of Pink convention!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

As weird as it may look it is still better looking than any helicopter!

Jesse Open

...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Your puller shows the same high quality machine work as your parts!

Glowgeek

That's the Cadillac of prop drive collet removers. Not needed to get from point A to point B but the ride is plush.