Welcome to Club SAITO !
08-31-2020, 06:34 AM
I don't need to fly, don't need the last 100 RPM an engine can turn, Dont need a 180 when a 120 will get a given plane off the ground. Did not need many of the planes I have built.
Saito 150 will run fine on glow, without CDI.
Don't need many things
It does the job cleanly, reliably and easily. Never makes a mark, Cost less than $5 to make.
Suits the needs every time.
Saito 150 will run fine on glow, without CDI.
Don't need many things
It does the job cleanly, reliably and easily. Never makes a mark, Cost less than $5 to make.
Suits the needs every time.
Of course I can always substitute the heat gun for a torch which provides heat and light at the same time.......and melted collets as a bonus. 
08-31-2020, 06:36 AM
08-31-2020, 07:09 AM
08-31-2020, 09:02 AM
Pliers marks on the collets? Seen them on a few drive hubs but so far, not on the collets
The engines seem to run fine with pliers marks and universal puller gouges. I just don't need them.
Just as I like trouble free engines that work well, I prefer tools that work Independently as well as possible,
The engines seem to run fine with pliers marks and universal puller gouges. I just don't need them.
Just as I like trouble free engines that work well, I prefer tools that work Independently as well as possible,
Last edited by Jesse Open; 08-31-2020 at 09:09 AM.
08-31-2020, 10:27 AM
Right, prop drive "hub" (common), or prop drive "flange" (saito).
A heat gun works fine, no need for a torch but then again, what's need got to do with it? I should fire up my O/A torch to remove the next stubborn prop drive "thingy". It just sits there staring at me 364 & 9/10ths days a year now. I bought the rig primarily for cutting scrap steel into 36" lengths and preheating thicker steels prior to MIG welding.
A heat gun works fine, no need for a torch but then again, what's need got to do with it? I should fire up my O/A torch to remove the next stubborn prop drive "thingy". It just sits there staring at me 364 & 9/10ths days a year now. I bought the rig primarily for cutting scrap steel into 36" lengths and preheating thicker steels prior to MIG welding.
08-31-2020, 11:43 AM
I have a gear puller I use, it fits the groove in the hub just right, then I put tension on the screw against the shaft, then hit it with the heat gun. 10 out of 10 they pop right off. Not a lot of force and the screw touches the shaft right in the little centering hole so chance of marring the threads. It works, and is something I have had for damn near 30 years.
08-31-2020, 12:26 PM
Yessir,
Having done heavy machine repair and general lift truck and automotive repair I have quite a collection of pullers from small to large. I understand that well.
The reason for the sleeve in the pic has nothing whatsoever to do with thread protection .
The sleeve has a projection that passes thru the drive hub and bears against the collet. The puller is actually pulling the hub off of the collet directly, not dragging the tapered collet along the shaft.
I was originally replying to a comment regarding a buggered hub and offering a puller that will nut bugger one in a thousand.
A different mousetrap.
Having done heavy machine repair and general lift truck and automotive repair I have quite a collection of pullers from small to large. I understand that well.
The reason for the sleeve in the pic has nothing whatsoever to do with thread protection .
The sleeve has a projection that passes thru the drive hub and bears against the collet. The puller is actually pulling the hub off of the collet directly, not dragging the tapered collet along the shaft.
I was originally replying to a comment regarding a buggered hub and offering a puller that will nut bugger one in a thousand.
A different mousetrap.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 08-31-2020 at 12:44 PM.
08-31-2020, 01:35 PM
The actual issue was your use of the term collet
The Strawman diversion wont change that.
As I said flange or hub, similar no big deal, some prop drives use a hub, some are true flanges.
A COLLET is NEITHER. That is why I suggested you may have meant "HUB" which is similar to a flange.
Pull it any way you like or need.
The Strawman diversion wont change that.As I said flange or hub, similar no big deal, some prop drives use a hub, some are true flanges.
A COLLET is NEITHER. That is why I suggested you may have meant "HUB" which is similar to a flange.
Pull it any way you like or need.
Maybe it's more of a hub than a flange, I don't know but Saito calls it a flange so that's good enough for me.
08-31-2020, 01:37 PM
Dave,
More house cleaning of parts and engines. Came across these 10mm male x 12mm female exhaust adapters as well as a pair of 10mm male pipe nuts that work great with 1/4" brass K&S tubing. Can you use them?
BTW, yes I also found a complete big block muffler and a 13mm body that you can make a tail for and tap out to 14mm. I do think you wanted those.
More house cleaning of parts and engines. Came across these 10mm male x 12mm female exhaust adapters as well as a pair of 10mm male pipe nuts that work great with 1/4" brass K&S tubing. Can you use them?
BTW, yes I also found a complete big block muffler and a 13mm body that you can make a tail for and tap out to 14mm. I do think you wanted those.
08-31-2020, 03:09 PM
My father told me his foster father did this to a mule with one bunch back in the 20s. The mule was out cold for 4 hours (My father was rooted to the ground after the old man told him to watch and tell him when it came to.) The mule's jaw was broken in 3 places and the old man's arm in two places. The vet set the arm after setting the mules jaw. That was when my father learn to fear and respect the old man. He didn't want to be next! Them old dirt farmer/ranchers were a whole another breed!