Ray44

My Feedback: (4)

Bill, Thanks for suggestions.
I put a 12X6 on yesterday and didn't have a chance to try it out and today it's raining so will end up taking it to the flying field tomorrow morning. Sure hope it improves the idle. Don't have a 12X4 but will order one if you think the 12X4 is really the way to go.

If anyone knows the factory recommended carb settings I'd sure like to know and then I could start from there.

Thanks All,
Ray

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Bill for the welcome and the info. Yesterday we reset the valve clearance to .04, re-adjusted the low speed needle to 3.5 turns out and adjusted the high speed needle to about 2 turns and the 2.20 ran perfect...for the first time.
Now my friend has other work to do. The winds kept picking up by the minute as we were "tuning" the engine, but my friend HAD to fly the new giant U-Can-Do that the engine is on. The winds were about 25 mph by then. The flight was great, the landing was a fight against the wind, but he got the plane on the ground without incident, but a sudden gust caught it and cartwheeled it a couple times. The canopy was outta shape and the wingtips were bashed up a little bit, but will be ready by this weekend to try again.

Thanks to all that replied to my post about the problems with this engine. My friend and I have over 30 years experience between us in this hobby and we decided that a "balky" engine was not going to kick our butts. Needless to say, we were very elated to see the engine finally run like a Saito should!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ray, is this yours on the left, it sounds like your LS needle is rich. If so, set the HS needle at absolute peak and then reduce the lowest idle and begin to lean the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time checking the transition and idle after every other change. Reduece the idle speed as you can and you'll get it perfect.

Ray44

My Feedback: (4)

Hobbsy, Yes the one on the left is exactly like mine.
It is very easy to set the HS to peak, the tack & my ear agree every time.

Now when I go to the low speed adjustment, seems I should bring the throttle back as far as I can without it quiting, and then
keep leaning the LS needle 1/8 at a time. This is what you mean ..........right??

Near as I can find an idle of 22-2300rpm is what I'd expect to get, .......true??

Sure hope this works, cuz an idle of 3000+ is just not the way to go for me.


Thanks very much,
Ray

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yes, and yes.

APIA

It took some time to get thru this thread, I have a CG Cub with a 56 and plan to a use my 72 in my 4* 60. Very interesting and informative thread.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Lots of folks use it. It can't see it hurting any if it will stay on the fittings.

On the other hand, I can't imagine any engine, even glow, actually needing large fuel tubing. But what do I know? <G>

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Apia, for the 4*60, I would recommend Saito 91 or 100

TimC

APIA, here's another vote for a .91 on your 4*60. I'm running one in mine and it's not overpowered at all.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Ray44, I've had inconsistent idle problems. Sometimes it idles great, other times not. It may be the oring between intake and cylinder head. It has backfired and pushed the tube out a little upsetting the oring. The backfire resulted from trying to get low end lean enough for good idle. Engine still has low time on it. The Zinger 12x5 was a little too much load, but the APC 12x4 works great. Last time out, temp was 72, no wind, lots of misquitos and it ran (idled) awesome. Each time out, it seems to get a little better. When I feel confident the idle is not a problem anymore, I will try different props.
Good luck, MikeB

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bill, any idea why this happens? Shouldn't the hot gases exit through the exhaust port, even in the case of a backfire?

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Kmot - Thanks !

Happy Landings,

Crankpin South Florida

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

When they back fire -- Exhaust will come out the intake. It doesn't usually push the intake tube out because the carb is opened somewhat.

On Some Saito 72's the tube is about ready to fall out anyway.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ray, you got it, a prop with a little weight to it (like a Graupner) may allow it to idle at 2,000 to 2,100.

Bob93447

For Bill Robison.

I have a Saito 72 which is about 3 1/2 years old and which has accumulated about 70 flying hours (probably 80 hours total with breakin and taxi) powering a YCD 46. I'm running Powermaster 15% fuel with castor/syn mix with an OS-F glowplug. Lately, even after setting the valves, I've noticed a 200-400 rpm drop in peak power. Is this normal for a Saito or should I be looking for backplate leaks or some other ailment?

Thanks,

Bob

AMA # 93447

Francois7

Hello every body !

I'm planning to buy a radial, and I'm thinking of buying a Saito. The only thing that bother me a little is that I would prefer an Engine that can run on pure methanol WITHOUT nitromethane ! Is it possible with a Saito ? it his with a Seidel, a Technopower, a Laser , etc...

Has any one experience about it ? could we have a reliable tickover ? should we buy an aditional on board ignition system ?
Your kind help will be very precious for me,

Kind regards,
Francois

Watch your six !...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito's seem to like at least 5%. What happens with out nitro is that the needle setting gets a very narrow range to it.

The Saito will drop a cylinder when new for sure. When you get them well run in, some people are able to get by without "on board glow".

Francois7

Do you mean that they run it with pure methanol only when it's well running in ?... and that they must use an on board glow driver at the same times ?
Francois

JeremyP-51

i am a first timer to four stroke saito motors and im having difficulties with the low and high speed needle settings when i have the high speed running fine it wont idle when it idles it wont run at high speed or it gets a really bad vibration.......so i was wondering what the best setting anyone could recomend for setting the needles on a saito 82A and i can tinker from there..........thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

See post #4589. It doesn't matter which two needle Saito it is.

JeremyP-51

thanks hobbsy ill deffinatly give it a try

daniel9314

Muffler Pressure???

Can I in fact run a Saito 100 without exhaust pressure or am I in for dead stick practice? I'm reading the review of the H-9 p-51 with Keleo exhaust - no pressure tap, and the author states it is not an issue, and he has run many 4 strakes without pressure. I've spent 2 hours searching this thread, and it seems muffler pressure is a must? Dont want to bang up my new bird!

XJet

Throw a Perry Oscillating pump (VP20?) on it. I use one of these on my P51 Mustang because I prefer the sound of the engine without a muffler (warbirds *should* not sound so quiet) and it runs rock-solid regardless of the tank level or aircraft attitude.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bob, the older Saito 72 backplate design was weak and tend to flex a little more than desired, leading to a poor seal between the intake manifold and the cylinder. Any air leak there can cause erratic engine behaviour. The new backplate design has reinforcements to prevent flexing. Can you take a look at your backplate design, and whether there is any freeplay in the intake manifold?

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

daniel9314,
Not to worry, the Keleo exhaust system now comes supplied with a pressure fitting installed. Kelvin sent me the fitting for Minnflyer's system to pass along to him after using my YS110 as a template for the P-51 exhaust to fit the YS 91-110 . Give Kelvin a call, he's great guy to do business with and can answer any questions that you might have.