rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bob, to add to what Jim said, I also keep mine on a shelf, not in direct contact with the floor. Moisture has a way of creeping in.

Hope you already have a filter installed in the carb line? Keep us updated

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I wouldn't be surprised if they were all the same product with different labels, but I don't know that for a fact.

I keep meaning to order some Corrosion-X myself. If Hobbsy says it is good, it is good.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

After Run Oils Are Popular At Tower....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL391&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDR80&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHYZ1&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCX39&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZH53&P=7

rambler53

My Feedback: (494)

Maybe you Saito guys can tell me why the 80 goes for peanuts on the marketplace compared to 56, 65, 72, 91?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

For that very reason the 80 can be a very nice engine for the sport flyer.

The 80 weighs more than the bigger Saitos and has not much difference in power than a 72.

The 80 in a 46 size biplane, or something with a little extra wing area, makes The plane a hot dog.

Back in the late 90's I bought a NIB Golden knight 80 for $100. I bench ran it a few times but never have flown it. It still looks like new.

rambler53

My Feedback: (494)

That's why I bought one here on RCU for $150, it's been sitting a year and I haven't run it yet though (way too many rtf planes in the way I've been playing with). I sold many planes and engines here to simplify my choices and finally I'm ready to give it a whirl. One more question, why have local guys claimed the 80 is hard to tune compared to other Saitos? Higher compression I noticed on the 80. I had a tail heavy clipped wing Piper I threw the 80 on, hopefully never need to throttle up with such a bird, but it's got a nice CG now without adding lead...

So the 80, where do you tach it, prop size you use, fuel preference? I don't want to lean it and throw a prop out of ignorance. Better to ask first!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They will pull a 14-6 but that's a pretty good load for it.

A 13-7 would be nice if you could find one and didn't have ground clearance. They will wind up pretty good with a 13-6.

The Very first 80 had a very high compression and on 15% nitro it would be a real backfire prone animal. Sorta like a Y-S? Yet, they were OK if you learned their nature.

It is unlikely you have one of the high compression ones. My 80 is a "U" era one and is a sweet heart. No bad manners at all. I bought it in 98 or 99 and it had been around a while at that time. It was in the Black and Gold box and has a steel throttle arm.

I have more experience with my friend's 80 on his Pheaton II. It's never been any problem. It was new in 2003.

I have too many 91's to bother with it. It is too pretty being a GK to mess up. It's setting on top of the dresser in my bed room.

rambler53

My Feedback: (494)

Thanks! As you can see, I only have about six Saitos in the box (white boxes and black and gold), and two on planes right now. But I'm working on getting more. Right now I'm starting out on brushless stuff and only have one Hacker 30 28S motor, which I'm not sure I want. Half the fun of the hobby to me is hearing the engines.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

K, I have one of the high compression Saito .80s, it also had a rich midrange which required some serious fine tuning to overcome. I recently put the upgrade kit in it and the transition is now completely linear.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

krosypal: You have a nice collection of engines. If I may, can I suggest you don't stack the bare engines on top of each other?

rambler53

My Feedback: (494)

Yeah that looks bad, but no injuries yet. You can't see the pool of after run oil soaking the shelf in the cabinet so I should have put some time in storing them. Should I zip lock each?

scratchonly

I had problems getting my 80 to run inverted without glow heat. On Hobbsy and Bill R's advice I installed the upgrade kit and now it idles inverted much better. It flys a 60 inch Buker Jungmeister just fine. You can tell if you have the upgrade if the HS needle has a shoulder on the taper. The original did not.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Just my 2 cents...yes to the Zip Loc bags...they have worked well for me anyway. I have several engines from my "first time around" in the hobby, that have been liberally soaked w/ either air tool oil, or ATF and put in the bag. They look great, and turn over good as new after almost 30 years...and the cabinet I keep 'em in doesn't get a puddle of oil in the bottom (it did at one time though )

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just ran my 1.30 twin a little over an hour, I'm going to look into an upgrade for its carb, the left low speed needle is bottomed out and still a little rich. It does not drop the cylinder though, no dropped cylinders in todays run. The engine turned 8,450 at the beginning of the run and 8,670 near the end of the run.
Prop==MasterAirscrew K-15x8
Fuel WildCat 15%/18% lube
Plugs (4) Fox Miracles.
And just for fun, (2) Clines and (2) checkvalves.
I burned the amount of fuel in Picture #1, picture #2 it is turning about 7,500 rpm

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

olstoney,

Corrosion-X and its cousin, or twin brother, ACF-50 are widely used in full-scale aircraft. You may be able to find it a comprehensive FBO at a local general-aviation airport. I see many places are now charging $30.00 Haz-mat fee for shipping a $15.00 dollar can of it.

I think this country needs more environmental regulation...16 ounces of Corrosion-X , spilled in a UPS truck, would undoubtedly kill all the caribou in the world. Save the trees....wipe your butt with a spotted owl.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks for the tip .

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

i here ya rlmncii, organazations like the sierra whatever are evil, under the guise of tryin to save the world.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

If anyone has a NIB high compression version of the Saito .80 that they would like to swap for a NIB .82, I'm game. Mine is not a GK, but a NIB GK .80 is acceptable for a trade at parity.

Ed Cregger

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Hey Guys,
I'm thinking of picking up another FA-100. Thought that I read somewhere in this forum (Bill R.) I think, that the Golden Knight version comes equipped standard with a velocity stack and the regular version does not. Can anyone confirm this, as the photo on Horizon's website doesn't show the GK as being equipped with the stack. Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

On the Saito 100, neither version has a velocity stack. The stack must be ordered seperately

Tom Jones

My Feedback: (4)

w8ye, my 100saito GK came with a velocity stack.Tom

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

krosypal: Yes to the zip lock bags. All my engines and various parts that do not have original boxes are in zip locks.

Dave, I love the classic Saito's with the red medallions!

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

olstoney,

I purchased a 1.00 GK for my son-in-law last Christmas. No stack. A stack is, however, easily added.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just finished breaking in my TS .90 that I've had for about 3 years and never finished running in, I always heard they were wimpy engines, that does not seem to be the case.

Saito-TS .90 twin
Prop Bolly 13.5x6
Fuel PowerMaster 15%/18% 80/20 blend
Plugs-Enya #3s
RPM==1,0300 but sags after about 5 seconds, what's on the Tach is 2 clicks rich of peak and constant.

The Mrs. has me putting the lawn stuff away for the winter, she has lots of it, so I run engines while I work, it beats whistling

the D man

I just got my first four stroke its a Satio 125 and I put it in a World Models 60 size Spitfire. I broke it in like the manual states. I ran it for 50 minutes with the high end needle open to 5 turns it ran great no stalls. I leaned out the high end a turn and half through break in, took it out for the maiden flight and came in dead stick. Is it still to rich or can I keep leaning it out? I am spinning a 13x10 APC prop at 9800 rmps