w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

A friend re-faced his lifters during a bearing change the other day. I guess we will find out how this holds up?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The little blue steel Saito valve setting feeler gauge strip is .1mm or about .004" thick which is the maximum tolerance dimension for setting the Saito valves.

sundancer007

I have just installed a set of RC bearings ceramic sets in a saito 125. I have replaced many bearings in other engines but not ceramic. Today at the field, the saito ran very well but the cowling has a lot of oil on it. I ran the motor without the cowling and I can see the front bearing is leaking the oil. Also after running the motor from a full tank, the crank rotation is scratchy and its not the cylinder I feel. But after it cools it smooth. What the heck is going on with these bearings. The case was heated and the bearings seating perfectly and assembled with a smooth feel. No, the vent tube is not pinched. Anyone shed some light on my problem. The front is double shielded and the rear is open like it is suppose to.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dancer:

First, you have the wrong front bearing. You have to use a double SEALED bearing in front, anything else will give you a runny nose on a Saito engine.

Second, you probably have one that's faulty. Pop them both out and send them back, Paul will make them good. Might charge a bit for the different front bearing, but he'll take care of you.

Bill.

sundancer007

Yes, the front bearing is double sealed. The seal is black on the front bearing both sides.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dancer:

In your earlier post you said the front was shielded, sorry. If the front bearing is the faulty one excessive slop could cause the seals to come unseated, allowing the leakage. Alternately, did you pull the piston out of the cylinder? If yes the ring will have to reseat, until it does there will be a greater amount of piston leakage, this will aggravate any other path for oil loss. You might want toi pop a new ring in anyway, depends on how much time the engine has on it, how much dust is in the air at your field, so forth.

Still the same answer concerning sending the bearings back.

Bill.

sundancer007

Very clean where I fly Bill. I just pulled the motor apart and the front bearing and seals are in place. No , did not pull the ring from its seated path in the cylinder. The rear bearing has a dragging feel to it. I de oiled the rear bearing and it feels the same when I installed it yesterday. The front feels very good although the front is sealed and lubed from the factory. The plane has the wettest nose Ive ever seen. If you roll the rear in hand, you can hear it. But the different alloys in the bearing can do this. Also, I noticed when I snap the throttle from high to low, there is a noticeable vibration, but at max rpm, it disappers. Have you installed these sets in a four stroke and been succesful?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Since "Way back when", before Paul moved RC_Bearings from England to the USA I have used no other source for my engine bearings, and I've only used the composite ceramic/stainless bearings he supplies. In these countless sets installed, I've had one premature failure, and that was later found to be caused by a distorted crankcase. Highly recommended, he does offer a replacement guarantee if needed.

The biggest "No-No" with any ceramic ball bearing is the use of any form of drift to seat them. Any impact load on either the inner or outer race can chip a ball leading to quick failure. They must be mounted with even pressure in a warmed case, minimum of 200F or better at 250F for a safety margin.

Any roughness in one that you can feel, much less hear, indicates a bad bearing. Send them back.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Moved to Kit Building.

sundancer007

Thanks for all of your input Mr Robinson on my issue. Im sure its just a fluke with the bearing seal issue. I never tap bearings in, they usually fall into place from the weight of the crank. I will talk to the gentleman next week. Angain, you have been very helpful. Thanks

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

Bill,
Thanks for the advice. I already ordered a set of ceramics from RC Bearings last Thursday! You are correct in that I have only used fuel with synthetic oil and I believe that the valve clearance did get a little loose. Maybe it's time to add some castor.
Phillip

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

Kmot,
By "dress", do you mean file down. I have several very fine wetstones in addition to a dremel stone that I could use. I understand that the cam lobe profile should be changed as little as possible.
Phillip

XJet

A *good* camshaft should not be easily filed. It should be hardened steel (at least case-hardened or nitrided) so as to reduce wear in the first-place. If you can file a camshaft -- it's stuffed.

I wouldn't bother grinding one either-- for the hassle involved versus the cost of a new one, it's a much better idea just to replace it.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yes, I mean it like "file" but don't use a file. Use the stones.

izane

Hi all saito fans. I am from Malaysia and need your help on saito FA65 engine. I use this engine on Super Decathlon swang MA 13x6 prop. I was made to understand that this is an old model of engine and got it from my friend for free. Yesterday engine quit during 2nd flight at half throttle. Try to restart but no compresion. Checkeed and find out that the one of the pushrod or either rocker arm get stuck. After try to push it with hand few times it worked. I noticed some small pieces of metal with track (outer part). I am new to 4 stroke engine and how can I service the engine. Secondly, where can I download the manual for FA65

stallwart

I'm not certain about the download, but if the link below is to the manual you need, I'll photocopy one and send it to you by mail.

However, I would not be surprised if there is a contributor on this thread that has a .pdf version that can be e-mailed.


http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...manual&CatId=E

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Manual PDF

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...der_Manual.pdf

Johnmpa

I have four(4), yes 4 Saito FA-125's. Started right up out of the box in just 2 back-flips. I run 15% Nitro/20% Castor/Synthetic mix and can't wait to actually fly this bad-boy in an airplane. I just like running it (for now) on my test stand. Just prime it and "boom" she starts. Already have a half gallon through one of my four. The other three are going in a GP Tiger Moth and GP P6 Hawk Bipe. I don't know if I'll buy a 2 stroke again.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

JP, if you happen to have an Enya engine, the feeler guage that comes with them is .002 inch and is perfect for setting them Bills way, at least close enough.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

get a feeler gauge set at the autoparts store for a little over $5, just check it has the sizes you need, that's what i did.
jon b

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

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N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Didn't someone mention a while back that a piece of clear cigarette wrapper is about .0015???? That's what I used.

Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here's the best valve adjustment kit I've seen but the box end wrench is for OS and not Saito engines

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCN31&P=Z

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

I thought the guage that came with my Saito was the correct size, but I will buy a set that has .0015 as illistrated in Bills picture. I did not realize that having the valves a little loose would damage the engine... My Saito came from the factory set very loose [X(]

JettPilot

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Perhaps WR can comment on this next item... I just checked my Saito manual (2004) and they say that the gap should be .002 to .004 (0.03 - 0.10 mm) which is a little looser than the .0015 that I set my valves at using the cigarette wrapper.

Just food for thought,

Bob