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Old 11-21-2006, 09:11 PM
  #5451  
w8ye
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You get the bearings ready.....

Heat the case without the bearings.....

Slap it together in a hurry.....
Old 11-21-2006, 09:17 PM
  #5452  
alfredbmor
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Both bearings at the same time?
Old 11-21-2006, 09:23 PM
  #5453  
sundancer007
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rear, then front. I have been doing this method for many years. No issues, till I used an aftermarket bearing.
Old 11-21-2006, 09:25 PM
  #5454  
w8ye
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Lately the rear bearing is only shielded or is open. There are actually no seals to worry about on the rear bearing.

You can assemble the rear bearing and crank, reheat the case and push the front bearing on. But I would have the front bearing ready the minute you got the case hot.

On a Saito the original front bearings are a "2RS" bearing with seals.

The original rear on the older Saito's was a "ZZ" bearing that has just shields on it.

You can stick one together with an open rear and a "ZZ" front. They will run and last fine but will have a snotty nose.

I guess the deal with the rear bearing being a "ZZ" is to retain fragments of the cage if it disintegrates? But if you can get the engine to run long enough, the parts will still get on the piston.
Old 11-21-2006, 09:42 PM
  #5455  
Kimhoff
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1. Put crank in freezer
2. Put rear bearing on frozen crank
3. Put front bearing in freezer
4. Put crank case in oven - 300 degrees
5. Put front bearing on crank with unsealed side away from rear of crank
6. Pull crank case out of oven with oven mitt
7. Push front bearing in with crank
8. Allow to cool for 30 seconds to secure front bearing
9. Pull crank out of front bearing
10. Insert crank through the back of the crank case and seat rear bearing by light tapping with a brass drift
11. Done, very simple.

Helps if bearing surfaces on the crank have been cleaned up with a drimel and a wire brush
Old 11-21-2006, 11:06 PM
  #5456  
RVM
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It's an Iron Bay regulator. Initially it was leaking tons of air in. No air in the lines before it got to the regulator, but tons of bubbles between the output and the carb. I tightened the output nipple on the regulator (it was very, very loose) and that pretty much stopped the leaking. Supposedly the Scraeder valve could need tightening too, but I don't have the right tool for that. It's still leaking a little bit of air off and on, but I'm going to take the output nipple off and put some plumber's teflon tape on it and that should stop it completely. If it doesn't I'll start looking elsewhere for leaks, specifically the Schraeder valve.


Any ideas on why the needle is so ineffective?


ORIGINAL: JettPilot


ORIGINAL: RVM

More questions about my Saito .82

I did notice the regulator was leaking air again, so I fixed that (for the most part).
Can you tell me about your regulator leaking, and how you fixed it ? What kind of regultor was it ?

JettPilot
Old 11-21-2006, 11:33 PM
  #5457  
Kmot
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I sure am glad I don't worry about a little cooz oozing out the front of my engines.
Old 11-22-2006, 07:12 AM
  #5458  
Hobbsy
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I thought I splained that already, the regulator is a demand regulator and can only respond to the demand at the spraybar, they do allow suffecient flow to richen a Saito down 200 or 300 rpm but that's it. Anymore than that is not necessary anyway. I've always been comfortable with a 100 rpm drop when using a regulator because you don't need to worry about a lean condition when the fuel level gets low.
Old 11-22-2006, 07:32 AM
  #5459  
Hobbsy
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Bill, here is a picture of the brace I built for the TS .90 pipes on the TeleMaster. It's just a 4-40 rod I cut and re-threaded, there is a blind nut in the bottom tri-stock in the back of the firewall. After I drilled the hole for it I hardened the wood with thin CA.
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Old 11-22-2006, 08:23 AM
  #5460  
Garthwood
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Jim.............I'll get the seals off, I have no intention of putting them back in. Their time has come, so I'll have a look inside.

Sundancer...................thanks for your comments. My curiosity is killing me, read the above. Good to find out after so many flights and using all synthetic fuel and AR what condition the bb are in.

Charles.
Old 11-22-2006, 09:16 AM
  #5461  
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I do not use heat except for removal. For installation I use an appropriately sized socket that matches the outer race diameter, I place a hardwood block behind the engine and push the bearing in using an 8 inch vise. I do the rear first so I won't have to worry about the new front one, some of them stick out a little. They go in quite easily.
Old 11-22-2006, 10:35 AM
  #5462  
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Front bearing with the seals removed, found no trace of rust, shiny as can be.
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:39 AM
  #5463  
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Just to look at the picture...

It looks like a new bearing?
Old 11-22-2006, 10:45 AM
  #5464  
Kmot
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Garthwood: It sure looks like you got the "run around" from Horizon!
Old 11-22-2006, 11:00 AM
  #5465  
Garthwood
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No Jim it is not a new one, It is the old front bearing I had in the Saito .72 that Horizon said it was bad. That tells me something, that using the after run works. Running off the fuel left inside the engine first, and adding 50% Marvel Mystery Oil (or ATF) and 50% Air-tool oil, after the day of flying is over.
That bearing had 90-100 flights and using PowerMaster 15%nitro/20% all synthetic oil, running rich. Unfortunately I lost compression.
But had nothing to do with both bearings. I am glad that I came across this thread, because what I've read in this thread backed what I always believed in. To take care of these little jewels.
Thanks guys.

Charles.
Old 11-22-2006, 11:05 AM
  #5466  
Garthwood
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Kmot.....................we all learn by our own mistakes. You're right, I've been had. Water under the bridge.
Old 11-22-2006, 11:15 AM
  #5467  
RVM
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I must not have understood you. I thought you meant that the needle should respond (and be set at the same point) as if it weren't regulated.

So basically, the needle is a whole lot less sensitive when running a regulator?

I'm not having a problem getting the engine rich. It's finding peak that I'm having a problem with. [:@]


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

I thought I splained that already, the regulator is a demand regulator and can only respond to the demand at the spraybar, they do allow suffecient flow to richen a Saito down 200 or 300 rpm but that's it. Anymore than that is not necessary anyway. I've always been comfortable with a 100 rpm drop when using a regulator because you don't need to worry about a lean condition when the fuel level gets low.
Old 11-22-2006, 05:45 PM
  #5468  
sundancer007
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Gartwood, thats awsome. Those bearings are the sign of a well maintained engine. It makes you angry to think the tech at Horizon stated the crank would turn.
Old 11-22-2006, 05:47 PM
  #5469  
sundancer007
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correction,,,would not turn..
Old 11-22-2006, 06:12 PM
  #5470  
Garthwood
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Sundancer007.....................................F uming is more like it [:@] Thanks for your comment.
Old 11-23-2006, 09:19 AM
  #5471  
Hobbsy
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Tom, I think that could be properly be called, (telling you what they think you want to hear), that way the customer is placated and completely ignorant of what the real problem was. Except the ones with a little knowledge.
Old 11-23-2006, 10:43 AM
  #5472  
swattley
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does anyone know if there is a pitts style muffler for the saito 125? i want to add smoke to this motor in an edge 540
Old 11-23-2006, 05:56 PM
  #5473  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Swattley

Good question, I have a 1.25 going on a GP Skybolt kit , I plan to add a smoke setup and would also like some information regarding a pitts style or other possible recommendations.

thanks all
Bill ( "Rummy" as WR calls me )
Old 11-24-2006, 02:30 AM
  #5474  
dadanic
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Hi to all SAITO lovers

Arno here from RSA

Please, I would like to join Club Saito - I own 5 of these wonderful motors and would like to be kept up to date.

Help me here

Best regards
Old 11-24-2006, 12:02 PM
  #5475  
Kmot
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ORIGINAL: dadanic


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