w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It will be just fine. Go for it.

RVM

That's right!

RVM

Speaking of Omega fuel...

For some reason my 25% Omega doesn't seem to generate as much power as my homebrew which has about 7% less nitro and 3% more methanol. I know decreasing oil allows you to increase methanol, but I don't think (and correct me if I am wrong) that 3% methanol is enough to generate enough power to more than overcome a 7% nitro deficit. If that were the case we'd be running straight methanol with a minimum of oil. The homebrew didn't not seem to idle as well, but I haven't really tested that yet.

When I finish repairing my plane I'm going to pay very close attention to tuning between the two fuels and see how much of a difference there really is.

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

Ok... I want in the Saito Club!

I have a 1.50 in a X100! What else do I have to do....?? LOL

Hibrass

swattley

could someone give me an idea of the high needle setting on a 125 four stroke, i have a 15x4 prop and i did the breakin at 5 turns out. I am still just running the motor and taxi around. i am just trying to get a idea of the average setting.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The proper high speed needle setting for the Saito 125 is the one that makes it run correctly at high speed. This is to be determined by the operator. That is the reason it is adjustable. There are too many variations due to temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, fuel, prop, etc for this to be a certain value.

mred33

Greetings;
This is a link to the Dreamer Bipe that i was talking about. It is one sweet flying Bipe on an HP-40, but I got out of the hobby about 15 years ago because of the job I had and am just getting beck in again. I decided to go with Saito 4 stroke engines only instead of 2 stroke because of the sound, looks, and from everything I have heard, reliablity. I have a 100 and 125 now and am in the market for a 40 class engine. Later I plan on something like maybe a 150, or 180 class engine. Don't think I will go any bigger, but you never know. Keep up the great work Bill. I have read about half of the post so far and am working on the other half. How do I get my e-mail address to you?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go
Thanks for everything.
MrEd

mred33

By the way, the manual says to run the 125 at between 8,500 and 9,500 after it is broken in. Prop it somewhere in that range and you are good to go according to the manual.
MrEd

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

15x4 is too small for a 125? Try an APC 16x4w or 16x6

swattley

i was just looking for a rough idea, i do not want to run it too lean when it is new like this. maybe i am really looking for a setting not to go past in leaning it out. i had it out 2 1/2 turns today. this is my first four stroke. the plane is not done yet and not flying. i am running it, breaking it in, getting the idle set.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

As was said your prop is a little on the small side to get any high speed adjustments accomplished.

But the normal procedure is to quickly find the peak RPM with mixture and throttle setting and then to screw the needle out a about 4 clicks.

Don't forget that you will need to also adjust the low speed needle before you have it finally set.

gjeffers

swattley, as rajul said, a 15x4 is too small a prop, i run a 16.5x5 apc on mine and is just about right

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

monday morning i am going to run my .82 and .72. i read a while back to set the LS - please verify; slowly turn it in to where the engine quits, turn it in a little at a time, adjusting throttle to keep at about 2200 rpm, then open it 1/8 turn. am i right? hopefully get rid of some of that vibration
jon b

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That's sounds pretty good to me. I usually manage the feat without the engine actually getting to the point of quitting though.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

I have a two questions regarding bearing installation. Is using a propane torch to heat the block acceptable? Should I install the rear bearing on the crank and then insert the crank with the bearing already on it into the case?
Phillip

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Be careful with the torch. The crankcase will seem to be taking the heat fine and suddenly you have melted a hole in it.

I usually slide the rear bearing on the crank fist so it is aligned going into the crankcase.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i had two old os engines, 46 sf ringed and fs 40. i wanted to try as a practice rebuild. i did the bearings w/a torch, heated more than just a little. i was told to heat for about 20 seconds (moving the torch around the circumference of the bearing area), w/o a problem. the easiest way i have seen is to heat in the oven for 25 minutes @ 250. go to the web site www.rc-bearings.com, he has a page for bearing install.
jon b

roboto65

My Feedback: (30)

I would say the Oven is the way to go and 300 degrees has worked for me while the case is in the oven have the bearing in the freezer and the bearings should slip right in.........

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

That was going to be my next question.

I have used a heat gun in the past to add heat when the oven doesn't warm it enough. I set my oven on 350 degrees and leave the case in for 15 minutes but sometimes the bearings need some help to go in. Putting the new bearing in the freezer should help out.
Phillip

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

great idea about the freezer. my dad had a bulldozer, i replaced a pin in the tracks, drop it in a 5 gallon pail of liquid nitrogen (about -350 F), then tapped it in, heating the link would weaken it.
i purchased a used fa .72 and fa 1.00. i immediately opened the covers, inspected and squirted some marvel air tool oil in them, set valves and looked everything over. they both seem to turn well. one has a very slight surface rust on the rear bearing. i ran the .72 today. runs great, 13x6 it peaked about 10k. it doesn't seem to richen well. i richened the LS to be sure it's not too lean (it's about 1/16 or less in from the surface of the plastic lever). i open the HS to 3 turns to start, when running full throttle, i open the HS, 6 more turns, it only richens a little. it drops from a peak of 10k down to about 8500. plenty of oil comes out, runs perfect, idles great, transition perfect, cylinder not too hot to the touch. using my syringe, i connected w/a a fuel line to the carb inlet, opened the HS and throttle and gentle injected fuel thru. very little actually came thru the barrel. when connected to the fuel tank, it primes and draws fuel fine.
i tried to hand prop it w/chicken stick, prime and bump backwards. the first couple of times it started and ran forward. but after that, it always wants to run backwards.
any ideas?

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I was having the same problem with my 45 running backwards on hand starting. I didn't think it was possible untill I saw it several times. After filling the tank full, I would draw a little out of the tank and that took care of the problem. I think the engine was drawing fuel from the vent line when the tank was full.
Have fun, MikeB

sundancer007

Can any one please clarify the Saito 82 thread size, im tired of getting the wrong adapter from my local hobby shop. I need to know so I can get a tru turn adapter for my tru turn spinner.......thx all

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

72, 80, 82, 91 Engines: These engines use a 7x1 mm thread. Use Tru-Turn Adapter Kit TT-0718-A (7x1.0mm/8mm); this adapter does not have a jam nut. Another adapter TT-0717A has a jam nut and is the one recommended on the Tru-Turn web site.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

------------


You made me chuckle, thanks. I know what that is like to keep receiving the incorrect part.

I do not know "for sure" the thread of the .82a, even though I have a couple of them NIB. My guess (which will do you no good) is that it is 8x1mm. But even I wouldn't buy anything on my own advice.

Should someone contact you back channel (PM or email) and you find out for sure, please post it on this forum and thread. I'm sure there are several thousand folks around the world just waiting to learn the truth about this dilemma. Good luck.

I just read Jim's post saying that it is a 7x1mm thread. I sit corrected (get it? sit? not stand?) <G>


Ed Cregger

sundancer007

Even recieved part numbers. Wow, this is awsome..thx for the info.