Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I ran the .82 yesterday and found only a 100 rpm difference, then I remembered that I bought a 1.00 muffler for my .82. To be fair I will re-run the .82 using its own muffler first. The .91/1.00 muffler is considerably larger than the .65/.82 muffler but still has a 12mm inlet. Saito must have some logical reason for not using the .91/1.00 muffler on the .65, .72 and .82. I think the .62a is 10mm, I'll check.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The Saito mufflers from left to right are, Saito .65/.82, .91/1.00 and 1.25.

rideblue

well I think I found the problem Im thinking it is my gas tank I took the 80 out of the plane and put it on the bench with a brand new tank and seems to run without missing Im not sure but im only getting about 2/3 throttle b4 I get scared its gunna rip off the bench and kill everything in sight I did jump it to full once just for a second it seems like it wants to rev way to hight with a 13x6 prop but cant tell till its in the air. The feeler gage file helped me a lot the LS when screwed all the way in takes 3 turns to get it where you can put 2 feelers between the needles but thanks again Rideblue

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 80 rev's sorta high with a 13-6. They do pretty good with a 14-6. A 13-7 would be about right

A Saito 65 will turn a 13-6 at 10,000

turboapache

I need some help getting the sleeve out of a OS Max fs 120 surpass. Has anyone had one of these apart? Do you have to heat the case to get it out? I am trying to fix this one for one of the guys in our club. I know we have a lot of talent here so someone must know how. It seems to be and interferance fit. I dont have any experence with the OS line. Thanks in advance. Harold

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You have to heat the case on an old one. After it breaks loose, it will generally slide by hand.

I think on the 120 you have to extract the wrist pin through the little hole in the rear. That'll be fun.

turboapache

Thanks. I was wondering about that hole in the back. Is there a good way to time the cam? I marked the cam and case with a sharpie when I removed the cam but the chances of not loosing them when I clean the parts up is slim. The eng. was in a crash and the crank pin was scoring the back plate and caused a lot of aluminum and brass to go all thru the eng. It is so bad I can just turn it over. The owner thinks the crank may be bent but I wont know until I get it out and check it. Any advice on the cam timing would be great. Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

With the crank at top dead center and the piston all the way to the top, there is a little dot or line on the cam that should be aligned with the lifters. You can be more accurate with it towards the top but it will work towards the bottom also. Just so it is on the same alignment as the pushrods/lifters.

turboapache

Thanks for the great info. That is a great photo also.

Linemansteve

Hello, First post-I have been away from the hobby for a few years but getting back in. LOVE to fly. I really like th Saito engines, I have had very good luck with them. I have 2-80's and a 65. all on cubs. First question, would anybody know where I could get a rocker arm for the 65 ??? please e-mail. Thank-You

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAI5041

Rocker arms for the 65 are the same for the 50, 56, 65, 72, 80, 82, 91, 100, & 125

LordSirOb

My Saito 72 developed an air leak by the intake pipe and cylinder head. I replaced the oring and metal washer, and after 1/2 tank of flying the intake manifold is loose once again. What exactly is the repair method to stop this leak?

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Some say that repeated failures in this area are the fault of an old design/defective backplate. Replacing the backplate with the latest version remedies the problem for the most part.

Ed Cregger

Flyer95

My Feedback: (1)

I did remove the bearings and when outside the case they feel smooth again? [sm=drowning.gif]. I did not want to risk anything on this very nice engine so I purchased new bearings and fitted in the engine and it did run nice today[sm=teeth_smile.gif]
These bearings are much more tight than the stock ones but the performance was about 100rpm better than before.
A very good thing about this engine is that it uses standard metric sizes on the bearings so they are dirt cheap[sm=wink_smile.gif]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Glad to hear of your success

WWII

My Feedback: (13)

what prop would be best for a stio 125 on a funtana 90 for best hover pull out
the engine is brokin it
thanks
rob

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

I know much has been discussed regarding velocity stacks. They improve fuel economy and reduce spit back to keep the plane cleaner. Could they actually cause a decrease in rpm though?
Phillip

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If they cause a decrease or increase in rpm it isn't much. What is noticable is the fuel economy.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

I have noticed significantly improved fuel economy.
Phillip

Flyer95

My Feedback: (1)

Is there a velocity stack available for the Saito 125?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The one for the Saito 50 will bolt right on. It's id is about the same as the throttle bore. But the throttle has the spray bar which makes its effective area smaller

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI50GK93

gjeffers

the best prop i have found for my 125(on my ucd 60) is the apc 16.5x5

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Gary, are you using 30% nitro with the 125 ?

gjeffers

no rajul, im using omega 10%, thats what Bill uses

i use it now in all my engines

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Gary, what rpms are you getting with the 16.5x5w? Is the spool up good? I'm thinking of switching from the 16x4w, using 15% fuel