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Old 02-24-2007, 10:39 PM
  #6426  
w8ye
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

no more than 1/8 turn increments should be about right.

I was looking at my 150 and it has the metal throttle arm and the needle is a not in far enough to be flush. So with the plastic throttle arm, I would start with it being flush.
Old 02-24-2007, 10:53 PM
  #6427  
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It will run fine for about 30 seconds then just sputter and quit. DO i need to go back and forth on the needles?? Mine low needle even though it says 1 1/2 turns in from flush has to go almost another full turn to start to lean out. I have noticed when i go to far in it wont start back up so i back out 1/8 till it starts. When i starts to lean out should i back off a bit and then go to the high speed needle again. thanks for the help its makin me feel better already
Old 02-24-2007, 11:02 PM
  #6428  
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That sounds pretty good to me
Old 02-24-2007, 11:11 PM
  #6429  
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Where is ur 150 high speed needle finnaly set??
Old 02-24-2007, 11:23 PM
  #6430  
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3 3/4
Old 02-24-2007, 11:27 PM
  #6431  
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I was down to about 2 1/4 and still getttin about 8500 with a APC 18x6 is that too lean?? WOuld that cause problems setting the low needle?? thanks for alll the help
Old 02-24-2007, 11:32 PM
  #6432  
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A big prop makes the needle hard to adjust on four strokes.

I'm not a 3D pilot and I run a 16-8 APC prop. Correction - (on my 150)
Old 02-24-2007, 11:35 PM
  #6433  
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An 18x6 is a small prop for the 220 according to Saito they can run up to a 22x8 or do u mean in general???
Old 02-24-2007, 11:35 PM
  #6434  
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I thought we were talking about a 150? My mistake.

It would be not the best thing in the world to compare 150 needle settings with a 220?
Old 02-24-2007, 11:35 PM
  #6435  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I had no idea a 2.20 would turn a 22x8. Nice.


ORIGINAL: Tennwalker41

An 18x6 is a small prop for the 220 according to Saito they can run up to a 22x8 or do u mean in general???
Old 02-24-2007, 11:40 PM
  #6436  
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I am bein completely honest when i say that a Saito 220 although only rated at 3.5hp will pull u a 50cc gas engine backwards. I have a Fpe 3.4 to compare it against.
Old 02-24-2007, 11:53 PM
  #6437  
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Hmmmm... you really think so? I have an 80" plane I was really set on going gas with, to save fuel, weight, etc. but maybe a Saito 220 would be a good choice too.


ORIGINAL: Tennwalker41

I am bein completely honest when i say that a Saito 220 although only rated at 3.5hp will pull u a 50cc gas engine backwards. I have a Fpe 3.4 to compare it against.
Old 02-24-2007, 11:58 PM
  #6438  
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Its all i can do to hold on to it with one hand when u stab the throttle and i am fairly strong ( 21 years in USMC). I could hardly believe it myself when i got it. I Love the engine i just want to get it to idle correctly. I like it so much that i ordered a 180 for my Giant Ucando. I have a friend that has a 180 in his giant and it will hover at 1/3 throttle( the plane is 12.5lbs).
Old 02-25-2007, 03:03 AM
  #6439  
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What is the fuel usage like?
Old 02-25-2007, 07:47 AM
  #6440  
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NOt real bad i would say around 1 1/2 oz a minute if u run it fulll open. ITs a power house.
Old 02-25-2007, 06:49 PM
  #6441  
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I have a Saito .82 that I might have damaged a bit. I nosed it over on a deadstick landing. This resulted in a slight ding in the Tru Turn spinner (almost impercetible) but the prop didn't break. Anyway, what would be the best way to tell if I have bent my crankshaft or if the washer that the propeller rests against is simply not square? For awhile, I thought the backplate to my spinner was slightly warped, but I got to looking at it today and you can see that the round metal washer (I forgot the correct term) wobbles a bit when you turn the crankshaft. I don't see any wobble in the tip of the crankshaft if I turn it over by hand, though it could be that I simply cannot see it. My guess is that the metal thingie the prop is torqued down onto is not square.

The engine turns over smooth as silk, compression is good and I feel no grinding or rubbing or anything when I turn it over by hand. I have noticed that vibration is a bit more than I'm used to from Saitos (enough so that a 2" needle valve extension is almost unusable due to vibration at full throttle), and a bit more than the .82 has vibrated in the past, though my only comparison would be with a .91 that I own. I figure the vibration could be the spinner being slightly off balance because I over-torqued it and slightly deformed the nosecone.[&:]
Old 02-25-2007, 07:01 PM
  #6442  
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Cranks usually bend in the threaded area.

Saito prop drive washers can get "jammed" onto the crank at an angle in a crash. In this case, you will see the drive washer wobble like a hog's nose but the end of the crank can still rotate true. This will most likely require replacement of the drive washer.

Remove the drive washer and the glow plug and turn the crank and watch carefully to see if it runs true?
Old 02-25-2007, 07:58 PM
  #6443  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

awaiting my new saito 180.. woohoo ! hows bill doing? dont have alot of spare cash on hand but i can send a spare plane or parts to help replace his collection.
Old 02-25-2007, 08:20 PM
  #6444  
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Alrighty... I'll do that. First, how do I remove the drive washer? Then, how do I put it back on?
Will it hurt anything to fly it as is since I'm pretty sure it's the drive washer that's screwed up?

Oh, and assuming it is the drive washer, which one of these is the proper one for my .82 GK?

Thanks!

ORIGINAL: w8ye

Cranks usually bend in the threaded area.

Saito prop drive washers can get "jammed" onto the crank at an angle in a crash. In this case, you will see the drive washer wobble like a hog's nose but the end of the crank can still rotate true. This will most likely require replacement of the drive washer.

Remove the drive washer and the glow plug and turn the crank and watch carefully to see if it runs true?
Old 02-25-2007, 09:06 PM
  #6445  
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RVM, this is from Horizon's parts list for the .82: Taper Collet&Drive Flange:RR,SS


$9.98 [SAI7227]
You will need a puller to remove it. A cheap battery terminal puller can be ground to fit. To install, tightening the prop as nomal will seat it.

Old 02-25-2007, 09:16 PM
  #6446  
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Cool thanks. I'll run by Autozone or somewhere tomorrow and see what I can find.

When you say ground, do you mean ground as in I'll need power tools? I had all mine stolen awhile ago and I no longer have anything but some basic handtools.


ORIGINAL: TimC

RVM, this is from Horizon's parts list for the .82: Taper Collet&Drive Flange:RR,SS


$9.98 [SAI7227]
You will need a puller to remove it. A cheap battery terminal puller can be ground to fit. To install, tightening the prop as nomal will seat it.

Old 02-25-2007, 09:27 PM
  #6447  
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RVM, someone who has actually ground a terminal puller to fit will have to reply. I'm just repeating what I've heard to be the cheapest way to pull the drive washer. I've also read of people using two screw drivers but that seems a bit philistine to me. I use a bearing separator with a beam puller when I have to pull one.
Old 02-25-2007, 09:52 PM
  #6448  
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Alrighty thanks for the advice!


ORIGINAL: TimC

RVM, someone who has actually ground a terminal puller to fit will have to reply. I'm just repeating what I've heard to be the cheapest way to pull the drive washer. I've also read of people using two screw drivers but that seems a bit philistine to me. I use a bearing separator with a beam puller when I have to pull one.
Old 02-25-2007, 10:27 PM
  #6449  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Gents,
Just found a Saito FA 220 GK on my front porch. Going to hang it in the new Hangar 9 P 51 150.
Respectfully request membership.
Thanks,
Steve L
Old 02-25-2007, 10:54 PM
  #6450  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Sometimes a drive washer can be a bear to get off. Especially a jammed one.

You might try your Monocoat gun on it after you get the puller all tightened up if it doesn't come off.

One a 180 they sometimes will require a much more heavy duty puller than one for a battery terminal.


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