Birman

No Hobbsy, it's going on a 91.

XJet

That's just another reason why I buy my bearings from Paul at RC-Bearings.com, at least he knows what he's talking about and doesn't come up with nonsense like the stuff you were told.

Stainless bearings are made from feritic stainless steel (except the balls which are regular hi-carbon steel). Either the metal is stainless or it's not -- you don't have "some stainless" in the metal.

Have a talk with Paul at http://www.rc-bearings.com and get the real story on what bearings are best for your engines -- you'll probably also save yourself some money, Paul's prices are extra keen.

TimC

Xet, from what I've researched, stainless bearings are high chrome steel (400 series). No nickel in the alloy. I think I remember over 8% or 10% chrome can be termed stainless. If the balls are carbon steel, I can't see the advantage of having stainless races.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I saved the website, thanks ! What Tim said about chrome percentage sounds familiar, but as I said, it was a while ago. Im sure the guy knew what he was talking about better than I remember exactly what he said, but it was someone at Boca. The prices on that site look good, i'll give em a try and get a set for my 56, they gotta be gettin close now...

XJet

Yes, Ferritic stainless has a low nickel content but has the advantage that (unlike austenitic stainless -- the hi-nickel, non-magnetic form) it can be hardened through heat treatment -- making it more suitable than 300 series stainless for applications such as bearing races.

You are correct though -- there's not a whole lot of benefit to stainless bearings -- in fact the chances are that for many applications (including model use) they're no better and may even be worse than plain steel. The problem being that a good carbon-steel can be hardened to a higher rockwell number (hardness) than stainless -- so they will wear better.

Of course if you want the ultimate in corrosion resistance then you go for ceramic balls in stainless races -- RC-Bearings.com's price for these is *very* good compared to their competitors.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I noticed that about the ceramic prices... Boca wants $70.00 and they had them for about $25.00. That is a huge difference in price. Since the races are steel either way, I think i'll just stick to the all steel bearings for now.

Now, if I can pick your brain, here's one for ya... My Saito 72 started blowing fuel out the front bearing, it origionally had a rubber sealed bearing up front. I replaced the bearings in both my 65 and 72 at the same time, and now both have metal sheilded bearings, but the 72 still blows fuel out the front bearing, but the 65 still dosen't. At first I thought maybe the crankcase nipple was clogged, but it isn't. Then I thought maybe it was due to a worn ring, causing excessive blowby, but again, it should come out the vent nipple then, but it only seems to escape thru the front bearing, and very little if any, ever expells thru thru the vent.
Im curious what your take on this is.... I will admitt, the 72 is on a little Super Stearman Biplane, and I have flown it more than any of the others for the last 3 years, so it has lots of hours on it. I just get tired of wiping out the cowling all the time...

MikeP51

I need to replace the bearings in my Saito 150 and would like to get info on how to go aboutit. Is there documentation available, something on-line maybe? I'm especially concerned about timing and any gotchyas that people have experienced. I have a set of Boca ceramic bearings as replacement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Remove the carb, remove the back cover, remove the valve covers, remove the cylinder bolts, slide rod off crank and remove cylinder leaving the push rod tubes attached to the clyinder, and the lower boots attached to the cam cover (don't lose the little push rods), remove cam cover, tap crank out (use a nut to protect the threads). I use scokets to knock out and install the bearings (never hit anything but the outter races). Don't lose the little locking ring in the center of the prop drive collet.
When installing the cam cover, make sure the crankshaft is at top dead center, then stick the gasket to the cam cover with a little oil, and use a razor blade to hold the gear so the dot it at bottom dead center. This works best holding the blade in your right hand with the front of the engine facing you. Some guys heat the block and freeze the bearings to install them, but I just tap em in... don't lose the little lifters, they should stay in the boots, and note the small taopered end of the push rods fit into the ends of the rocker arms. Also, when reinstalling the cylinder, the dot on the rod faces the front, and make sure that the tappered, smaller end of the push rods fits into the ends of the rocker arm adjuster bolts. Don't forget to adjust the valves when your done. I hope I didn't leave anything out. lol

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Jim I would also like to have one of you turbo headers for the .62 if you are infact going to produce a few.


Thanks


Shane

RC Specialties

Viper,

It seems as though there is much interest in the .62 size. You are the third today. They will have to be fully tested. Things never work out the first go. Give me some time. Right now I am working the 1.25 and the big singles. It won't be long.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I checked the .62 exhaust, it is the same as the .50.

RC Specialties

Thanks Hobbsy,

That would make it a 10x1 thread according to my data.

Jim

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Sounds good, Thanks Jim

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I measured the thread pitch on my Saito 50 at .75mm

RC Specialties

Thanks Jim,

I'll check and make sure of the sizes before I proceed.

Jim

Birman

Hobbsy, I sent you a PM.
Birman

RVM

I got the new drive collet onto my .82. It turns true. Yay!

THanks for all the help and advice here!

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Wooooooooooo Hoooooooooooooooooooo ! ! ! Way ta go !

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Got it, I responded through the link in my mailbox, let me know if you got it. Somtimes PMs don't go that way, Thanks

Birman

Hobbsy, I got one PM about the TurboHeader.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sorry about that, I typed it and sent it before realizing it was the link to PM

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Hello,
For those wanting a copy of the Saito large engine manual PDF, here is a link for down loading. It doesn't seem to have the 125, but you can't have everything.

Dave

http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/Pro...der_Manual.pdf

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 125 is not lumped with the large engines

obie1

My Feedback: (76)

Hello Saito Club,
I just received a Saito 180 GK. I want to know some suggestions on a plane for it. I would like bipe or mono aerobatic planes. Please no war planes or regular flyers. Help me out. (Would the 180 pull the Great Planes Ultimate ARF?)
Thanks
Rich O.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Biplanes rock !