SURPASSAVID

I'm fanatic for the Saito 45 Special, I have 10 of them, I take them apart, and put together again, they are strong and fly great in any 40 size plane. I don't know why they stop making them here in the US. hard to find, maybe that's why I love them.

RVM

It really depends on the type of flying you'd like to do.

Oil content - I've seen anywhere from 10% - 25%. A lot of Europeans are flying their Saitos with 10%-12% synthetic oil without any problems at all. Most people in the US and on this forum will recommend at least 15% and quite a few would suggest that it be a synthetic/castor blend. Personally, I've run a Saito .91 on 12% synthetic / 20% nitro and found that the transition, idle and overall smoothness and power of the engine was much better than when using fuels with a higher oil content. I do like having some castor in the blend, so I add some Klotz if I have a straight synthetic. Right now, I am running Omega 25% (25% nitro and 17% oil, of which 30% is castor) and when I can I intend to add methanol and nitro to bring it to 25% nitro and 12% oil. In my opinion, based on research and admittedly somewhat limited experience, I don't see a need for anything higher than 15% so long as you keep the engine slightly rich. I peak my engines then richen them up by about 100 - 200 RPM.

As far as nitro goes, it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. For instance, I have a Fliton Extra 330 that I put a Saito .82 in in order to save some weight. The engine gives great performance, but I'm using 25% nitro and would like to go up to 30%. It really depends on how much performance you need and how much you are willing to spend. I could put a Saito 1.00 on, run 15% in it and still have more power than the .82, but I'd rather save the 2 or 3 ounces and pay a bit more for fuel (I apply this logic to everything when I can afford to haha).

If you want to keep it simple, I would tell you to pick up a case of Omega 15% and never worry again. You will have great engine protection, good performance and a reasonable fuel price.

Cool Power is straight synthetic, but I forgot the oil content. I think it is 18% but I could be and probably am incorrect. It's a good fuel, and I may try a case of it out for my .82 when my Omega is cashed. By the way, Cool Power and Omega are both made by Morgan Fuels. Just click on the name for more information.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Then I suppose the Cool Power 15% is fine too. Im just a sport flyer I guess. Mostly around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle scale type puttin around. I don't even do alot of loops and rolls really. I tried some 20/20 made by R&T, but it was real smokey, and got oil on the plane. It seemed to run ok, but I don't like to see oil on my planes. With the Cool Power, almost zero oil on the plane, runs great, and idles better, and alot less smoke than the R&T 20/20. Thanks for the info. I'll go check out the Morgan Fuels site.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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It wasn't long ago that many clubs would have sessions once or twice a year where building and covering would be demonstrated for all to see. I have seen such sessions convert ARF flyers into real modelers in no time. What seems impossibly difficult can be made doable by a newbie with just a little instruction.


Ed Cregger

Bipe Flyer

Well put Ed. Like most things in life, it's only difficult the first time.
I'm no master modeller but for me, half the enjoyment of this hobby is building. I don't care much for assembling ARFs I don't even really like building from kits because most of the decisions on how the plane should be built have already been done by someone else. I just like to start with a plan or to draw my own, and get cutting. It's especially rewarding to scratch build for other people. I get to build the plane do the initial test flights, which are the most fun, and I don't have to pay a penny.

RC Specialties

Freeonthree,

Cool Power 15% is a 17% synthetic blend. I have been using it for years on the Saito 1.00's, 1.20, and the 1.80 and have had no problems. I tried others, but performance was best on the cool power. I hope this helps.

Jim

RC Specialties

Hobbsy,

I like the way it looks also. I have been thinking about leaving the top of the cooling fins an aluminum finish on the anodized TurboHeader. I think it would add to the appearance instead of a totally black finish. What do you guys think?

I thought about anodizing the top of the fins gold and the rest black for the GK owners but it drives up cost considerably. I am not sure the gold would hold its color.

Jim

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I don't like assembleing ARF's either, so I know I wouldn't like building a kit. Actually, my favorite thing about this hobby is landing, and short coupled Biplanes are my favorite.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Jim, FWIW I think it would probably loook pretty good. But there is nothing like a picture to help decide. How about making one proto for us to look at? Also, it would be fairly easy for anyone who has a solid black version to lightly dress the fin tops with a needle file to highlight them.

-Tom

Bipe Flyer

I love short coupled biplanes too.
You might enjoy scratch building a Pitts. I've got plans for in a couple of sizes if you want them. One is has a .46 (sorry a 2 stroke), but some people have built them with Saito .70s, and the smaller one has a Saito .30.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Robert, I packed your engine up to send back then remembered that I didn't check the rocker clearances after running it the other day. I unpacked it and checked, the exhaust valve had closed a little, I re-set it to .004 and ran it at 7,500 rpm for 16oz (about 22 minutes) and it did not change again. Top rpm with an APC 14x6 is 9,500 I say it's good to go.

RVM

I love you Dave.

That was on 15% right?

I guess I don't need to use the Marvel for ARO anymore?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes, It was 15% PowerMaster, I have several gallons of PM and WildCat, I use a gallon of WildCat and then pour a gallon of PM into the WildCat jug. PM has lousy cans with a non standard plastic neck and metal cap.

curtis robison

hey fellows id like a tubo muffler 4 my fa 125 were can i obtain 1 thanks on and can one use the stock manifold with it thanks again

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=268258

You can get one here, it is a self contained unit.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Nah, too much work, and it would look terrible. lol I love ARF's ! I munched my Cessna 182 tonight on a flame out, so Im gunna get a 40 size Pitts for the 56. Only the plane was damaged, all other equiptment is fine. Nitro Models has a 40 size Pitts ARF for $124.99, thats more my speed...

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

What kinds of problems have you had? I use Powermaster fuels also.

AMB

Ok folks have 2 new 72s with those nice shiney plastic rear plates will a nice diecast metal one from an other saito fit it ?? I had this issue with a irvine 40 and did get one from an earlier 40 that resolved it martin

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Tom, I use PSP fuel jug caps, they fit WildCat, Byron's, Morgans and Fox jugs but not the PM cans.

Garthwood

hobbsy..................I have a SlimLine similar to your jug fuel filler that fits the PowerMaster fuel cans. I use PowerMaster 18/20 ASyn.
SlimLine have two sizes that I know of.

Charles.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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I bought one, but haven't had the box open yet. My near vision is still a mess. Wish I could find someone local to assemble my ARFs competently. Haven't tried anyone yet, so I'm not pointing fingers. <G>

Even though the vision is bad up close, it is better at distance. Say 20' and further out.

I mention this because I know that I am not alone with this problem. There are many of us that are far sighted and find difficulty in building anything, not just models. I once would go through two or three books a week. Now I'm down to zero. If it isn't on a backlit screen, I don't bother trying to read it. I even have trouble with that at times - most times, in fact. Prescription lenses do not work because my eyes are continually changing from diabetes.

Anyway, if anyone reading this is in the Chattanooga, TN area and is interested in assembling ARFs for an old fart with a garage full of ARFs and kits who will pay reasonably well, or will trade some of his ARFs/Kits for the work to be done - contact me via Private Mail on this system. I want to go fly!!!! In fact, if you are methodical and mechanically handy, but don't have an R/C system or model, contact me. I can get you going by providing you with an entire set up just for assembling an ARF or two.

I love biplanes, but especially the Pitts, Ultimate, Christen Eagle type of models. And in all sizes, from .10 powered to 65cc powered. The Nitro Models Pitts .40 caught my eye right away. Please post back here and let us know what you think of the model and its performance. Thanks.


Ed Cregger

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Dave, I understand now. Yes, as Garthwood mentioned, Slimline makes a version for the cans as well as the jugs. Maybe PSP should consider doing the same.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I'll do that Ed. I figure it will fly great, but be just a little fiestier on the ground than the Super Stearman 40 I have. I think the Pitts is a beautiful little plane. I really like the little Biplanes. They fly great, their easy to get thru the door with, and you can pick em up with one hand cause they got a built in handle. The real fun starts after touchdown ! lol

RVM

I've been to Chattanooga, but unfortunately I live about 6 hours away. If that weren't the case, I'd take you up on your offer and assemble some ARFs for you.

I hate to hear that you have a difficult time building the planes. That has got to be frustrating.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I have trouble seeing close up too, so I just stack glasses for the small close in stuff. Works for me Ed ! Have you tried that yet ?