stallwart

I'm having a similar problem with a RCV-58CD. Since the tank location is high, I've run the fuel feed line to a filter below the engine box and then looped the fuel feed above and down to the carb. I haven't changed the filter and line location yet, but I think it may be the culprit.

RC Specialties

h9pts,

I am not familiar with the Xoar prop. I run a 14x8 APC on my 1.00 and only peak at 9600 at full throttle. I had a similar throttle problem with a 1.20 once and found out it was over propped. I may be wrong but 9700 at 3/4 throttle seems like your engine is doing all it can before reaching full throttle. Reset your needles and try a different prop size and see what happens. It sounds like a combination of prop size and needle adjustment problems. Let us know.

Jim

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I just started to break in my new Saito .82 yesterday. Break in proceedures as per manual and it started right up using my favorite starting tool, a 3/4" dowel. So far I have 42 ozs. of fuel run through on the test stand. Looks like a real nice running motor. I have Magnum, OS, Enya and a couple of other 4 strokes. Will most likely get a chance to fly this week end.
JEB

chris_in_montreal

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If you're getting 9,700 with a 14x6 you do not have a problem, that happens to be very good rpm. On some Saitos you can set the valve lash at .002 and on others it needs to be more like .004, my 1.25 for example loses 200 rpm when I set them at .002.

h9pts

Thanks guys. I know 9700 is good rpm but I don't want reliability issues because of a problem. Chris the xoar was at the lhs. I'll try a different prop and see what happens.

Keith

onewasp

Few carbs (Any variety) have much linearity after the first 75%. You may get another 100rpm you may not----whatever it is it probably wont be much. As far as fuel line size is concerned medium 3/32id is used on the Saito 220 and the carb is identical with the 180.--------Check your car-----two liters or six the fuel line is the same size (roughly .25"id) Pascal's Principle in part.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

For setting the valve lash, I remember reading a hint on this thread earlier where it was suggested to use the celophane from a cigarette pack, or similar. It would give you a lash of about 1.5 mils.

Just tossing in my $.02

Bob

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Thats way too tight ! .002 to .004 is better, but I wouldn't make em tighter than .002

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

FWIW a typical (piece of ) "Scotch" tape is .002"

jm_obrien

My Feedback: (6)

Freeonthree, Thanks for the advice. That was the best description I've had yet. Unfortunately I may have asked too late[].

I called Horizon today and they said that it sounded like a bearing gone bad. It makes sense after listening to him so we have a plan to send the engine to them and have them look it over. I'll post the results as soon as I have them, from previous experience with Horizon they'll have me smiling again in no time! Thanks to all for the help, I should've found you guys sooner.

Jon

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I put you down as member #517, Jon.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hello fellow Saito Guru's,

I need a little bit of advice here. I got my hands on a, um, 'vintage' Saito 120. I've already put a fair amount of $$ into it, and just discovered that I need new bearings, too. So they are also on order.

I finally got to working on the head tonight. As expected, the engine was put away 'wet' so there was a lot of dried castor.

My first question is about the valve - what have you guys been using to clean it? I think that steel wool might be a little too abrasive and would leave micro scratches on the surface that might promote corrosion again.

How about the inside of the head? What have you folks used for that?

So far, the piston sidewalls and the ring look OK, just discolored.

This is an older Saito with the letter "F" on the mounting lug. I also noticed that the rear bearing is smaller than the ones available now (I'm also replacing the lower crankcase - it's otherwise interchangable).

Any recommendations will be greatfully appreciated.

Bob


8/28/2005 SigMan

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

That doesn't look too bad Bob...try some green scotch brite...that won't scratch the valve(s) and you can poke a piece of it down the cyl. with a piece of dowel to scrub the chamber.
I made a cleaning tool out of a piece of appropriately sized dowel with a slot sawn in the end...you can put a piece of scotch brite in the slot, and stick it down the hole and spin it. It helps if you put a radius on the end of the dowel, to try and match the roof of the chamber radius. Dish washing liquid soap and (quite) warm water works pretty good for the cleaner. (use w/ the scrubber)

Edit: With that older style chamber, you might need more than one sized dowel? (an additional, smaller one to get at the valve seat area)

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bob, that one appears to have been run very hot/lean, even the keeper slot in the valve is burned black. An over night soaking in Corrosion X or a hot antifreeze bath would soften that stuff up.

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

It looks like you are going to be taking a chance on this engine and spending quite a bit of money on it. Why not buy new or look for an engine with little time. Is the cylinder, piston, ring,valves, crank pin, cam, cam bushing, worn? There is not doubt that the engine has seen some hard, lean runs and that could be telling us something.

RVM

Most of the exhaust valves I've ever seen are black unless brand new. Is this not normal?

That said, that's a lot of build up on the valve

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I'll try the green scrubby approach... as for ownership of the engine, I already own it. Overall, it was in good shape and I usually change the bearings anyway.

I don't agree with the lean run though. Judging by the buildup of hard caster that I'd found, I think it was run more rich than lean.

I don't have any scrubbies here, but have some at work. I might work on the engine tomorrow on my lunch hour. And, I might also try that anti-freeze trick again. I haven't used it on this engine, but have on others. Found a really small crock pot for $10 in a drug store once, and it's paid off!

Bob

Tripp2loo

My Feedback: (15)

Guys,

I have a Saito 182TD setup in an aircraft now, and have forgotten which way the throttle works. Is push it forwards throttling up or down?

Cheers

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

On the Saito 182TD with the throttle lever sticking out the left side of the carburetor when standing behind the engine, The lever forward is high speed.

Tailwheel Pilot

My Feedback: (2)

Sign me up.I have 2.
Saito 100 in a hanger 9 AT-6
Saito 150 in a great Planes Super Stearman

Tripp2loo

My Feedback: (15)

Cheers

blw

My Feedback: (3)

518 Tripp2loo

519 Tailwheel Pilot

RC Specialties

Tailwheel,

I like your Stearman. Does the 1.50 pull it well and are the wires optional?

Jim

bkrfrmhell

My Feedback: (4)

Question on a saito 72. Can't get it to idle reliably at all. I found the carb would move back and forth with the throttle. O ring seems questionable and I assume it may be sucking air. Also it has the plastic back cover, does anyone know which cover is the aluminum one? SAI7217 or the SAI7217A?