w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Both numbers you quote are plastic. There is no aluminum one. You want the latest "A" version. Also you need metric washers under the back plate screws. Order the carb O ring kit also. Use the Viton O'ring at the head end of the intake.

bkrfrmhell

My Feedback: (4)

What is the diffrence with the A version?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Where the tab is for mounting the carburetor, there are two braces underneath on each side of the top left backplate retaining bolt. Also the material is harder.

I have seen some of these reinforced back plates that have been around a while be bad also.

The 82 uses the same backplate yet I haven't heard of a bad 82?

bkrfrmhell

My Feedback: (4)

No reinforcments under my carb mounting tab, must be old style. i just ordered a new style backplate. Also what is your thoughts on the 80? I am looking at a good used one for my cg cub.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

When you remove the old back plate you will find that the corners are warped and the mounting holes have been squeezed in upon themselves by the pressure of the small contact area of the heads of the Hex socket (Allen) bolts.

TimC

I noticed when I removed the backplate on my .82, loctite was used on the screws at the factory. I assume the reason was to allow much less torque on the screws than normal to keep from squishing the backplate flange.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Even though the 72 and the 82 have the same back plate, the design of the intake manifold is a little different. The 72 intake manifold has a thin flange at the top for the retention of the aluminum washer. This washer will wear out and move away from the seal are. The 82 intake manifold is larger in diameter.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The screws back out of my .72 after one engine run. I used epoxy instead of a thread locker and it has worked fine since. My .82 had some sort of locktite on the threads too.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

My 80 has a bad intake tube, so I just epoxied the tube to the cylinder, with a nice bead all around. It never comes loose, and if ya need to remove it for some reason, the epoxy can be removed easily with an exacto. It doesn't stick to the metal good enough to be a problem, but it does stick good enough to seal the joint untill you want it off. It works so good, I never bothered to order a new intake tube which is like $15.00.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some of us are using RTV silicone on the intake tube-head joint as well as the other mods mentioned. Be carefull to not get any inside the engine.

Just put a thin layer on the outer shank of the tube where it slides through the O-ring

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, that could be bad. The o ring seems to keep the epoxy on the outside ok, and the epoxy also comes off the o ring easily too.

tigil

Can you tell me who (wich company) made this little Gile 202 very nice!! this plane are ARF ?

tigil

Hi William ,I just bought my first Saito engine because the lightweight and really good ratio weight versus power
my question is : can I run this engine with the same fuel then I use in my OS engine ? (power master 18% oil blend 15% nitro) and XP fuel 17% oil blend 15% nitro


Gilles

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If William Robison were still alive he would tell you that you need a little castor oil in both your engines. You can use the same fuel in either.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, speaking of Bill, yesterday I found a little package that I had put together to send to him. He wanted my old cam that came out of my 1.50. He wanted to examine it for wear patterns.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Tigil, you are member #520.

Dave, guess it was not a good moment to find that cam.

tigil

Can you tell me how rpm my 82 saito can turn APC 14X6 because I put this engine on showtime 50 6.5 pounds plane and I dont have illimited vertical

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here tis.

canardlover

Yes indeed - the plastic back plate on the Saito.72 is a bit flimsy. I beefed it up by adding a piece of aluminium and a longer recessed screw as shown. Now the carb can be screwed tight directly against metal....Cheers/Harald

Ernie Misner

Do they really make an aluminum back cover for the 72?

Thanks,

Ernie

kryptonite

After flying electric parkies for this past two years - I've decided to make a glow bird ( to make sure I won't regret my decision I went and got myself a Saito 125a GK[8D] ). The engine was bench run rich and slow for a couple of tanks per the instructions. The last run it was peaked to about 8400 rpm on a 16x6 APC-Sport. I put in into a Hangar 9 Showtime 4D and brought it out last week for its maiden.

At the field, due to poor lighting I was not able to properly get rpm readings from the cheapo tach - it sounded weaker than on the bench. I left the HS needle out at 3 turns with a smoky rich trail at full throttle. The plane maidened succesfully but felt underpowered even when the recommeded engine was a Saito 100 and I'm using the stronger 125. I found I had to fly near full throttle most of the time. The plane weighed 8 1/2 lbs dry - so it's not exactly overweight. Fuel used is Morgan's CoolPower MV for 4-strokes.

Now is it possible the HS needle is set too rich? ( It was exactly 3 turns out from close - and I did not adjust for fear of leaning it out without a tach reading )
All the 'plumbing' was checked - no leaks. Also, should I be checking the valve clearance at this early stage ?

BTW, I'm not regretting my decision - the Saito is a work of art - incredible throttle response and starts like a champ everytime.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I'm thinking that a 15-6 would be a better prop candidate?

tigil

Can I reverse the carb on the 82 Saito to have the high end needle upper side ?

jm_obrien

My Feedback: (6)

tigil, yes you can. I did the same with mine.

Jon

Tripp2loo

My Feedback: (15)

kryptonite

Way too rich by the sounds of it chap.

My Saito singles, I tend to tune by ear and watch the smoke. I like to keep them a little rich on the low end, but lean enough for fairly good transition.

Lean out the HS needle untill there is very little smoke, then back it up 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Run it like this on the ground for a couple of minutes and check the temp of the motor (I do this with fingers on the headers) you should not have to remove yo fingers sharply, it should be very warm, not hot here.

Are you using any sort of muffler extension, if so remove it. I dropped about 30% on my 91, when I fitted an exhaust deflector to the new style muffler.

Paul.


p.s. Does anyone have a spare .91s straight exhaust header?