P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

A couple of questions regarding the Great Planes Cap 580 with a Saito 82.
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHEH1&P=ML[/link]
The frontal picture shows the cowling cut out on the right side just in front of the engine. Should I also cut out the left side for added air flow? BTW, this is how it came from Great Planes. The two pictures from the bottom show the air’s exit point.

The other question is exhaust hook-up, will it work? I did not want to cut up the cowl for the muffler. So I used a flexible pipe from Saito and did the exhaust plumbing as shown. The fuel pressure line will be connected to the vent in the flexible line close to the engine. The vent on the muffler I’ll block.

The other issue on the exhaust system is how I am holding the flexible tubing/muffler in place. I simply used brass sheet metal. Will vibration fatigue this setup giving problems down the road? Should I wrap the flexible tube in something prior to the brass sheeting being placed around it? Should I even use the muffler and just use the flexible tube (although it’s a little short by itself).

Thanks!
Al

Club Saito member #359

P.S.
In response to the next post by Jim (thanks Jim), I added a side view picture. On the engine mount box, I placed the three different adapters I experimented with.

RC Specialties

Al,

You do not need to cut the left side of the cowl. You will have plenty of cooling airflow. The flexible pipe has a pretty sharp bend near the engine. My experience with these pipes is that you have to keep them as straight as possible and well supported or they will crack. Horizon sells a 90 degree adapter to prevent the sharp bends. The 90 may not benefit you here though.

Jim

Onelimey

Hello All,
I just bought a FA-100 but am unsure on weather I'm getting any compression. I haven't had a chance to run it, but the prop just turns in either direction without any noticeable resistance. I'm used to OS and EVO engines that when you turn clockwise you get definete compression. Out of my comfort zone looking for an answer.

Tanks
Andy

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 100 has to have the throttle at least partially open to have compression.

The engine could also have a valve pushrod out of the socket on the adjuster

Or it could have a stuck ring.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bring it over to my place tomorrow and we'll break it in.

p-80

My Feedback: (1)

hey w8ye thanks for the information you have been very help full by the way i would justlikke to say im a dihard saito fan there the only glow engines that i curently run and use i have a 100 gk and a56 both start outstanding love em i might be gtting an 82 in a few weeks

Bone

Hobbsy, W8YE & others - what sort of RPM's can I expect from my Saito 65 on 10% nitro fuel spinning a Bolly 13.5 x 6 prop ?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

B, here is my .62a turning the exact prop you mentioned, I've never owned a .65, I would think the .65 would be a couple of hundred rpm stronger. That is on 15% WildCat Premium Extra and the stock Saito SS plug.

Bone

As usual Hobbsy, a prompt & concise response - thank you [8D]

Onelimey

Hello,
I would love to, could you send or pm me your phone number?

I do get compression, but only when I put my finger over the breather nipple part 19 (or the vent tube I have connected). I'm not sure if this is normal or not. I'm totally new to Saito engines, I've downloaded the manual and it doesn't say anything about trying having to keep the breather nipple closed during engine start. Here is how I've got it set at the moment, no fuel in the tank, fuel line connected to carb, fuel filler line plugged, breather nipple line connected, throttle part way opened. The only time I get compression is when I close the line to the breather nipple.


Tanks
Andy

scratchonly

My new 91 had no compression out of the box; spun it for a few seconds and it was OK. Checked the valve clearance and I could not discern any gap. Set the lash, goes like gangbusters in a 9lb RV3.

travis a p

I got a problem with my saito 180, I have had it about 2 years and have had no problems out of it till about 2 weeks ago. It started running hot and I cant seem to do anything to stop it. Its not running lean,just wondering if anybody has any ideas.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sent you a PM

Sharpeye_2

Hi all,
I'm looking for some prop advice for my new Saito 125S. Here is what I have done so far:
15.5x13x3 turns at 5200 RPMs which equates to 64 MPH APC prop
16x10x3 turns 5800 RPMs which equates to 54.9 MPH MA prop
16x8x3 turns 6500 RPMs which equates to 49.2 MPH MA prop
15x7x3 turns 7000 RPMs which equates to 46.4 MPH MA prop

This engine has had 1.5 gallons of 15% fuel through it on the test bench turning a 16x8x2 prop and I am just now starting to lean it a bit. The high speed needle is now set at 3 3/4 turns out, and the low speed needle has not been touched. All these props were tested with the same fuel and at full throttle.

My question is: Will the lower max RPMs of the larger prop hurt the engine? OR Should I move down to the 14" dia. range?

Larry

Onelimey

Got it thanks.

Tanks
Andy

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My 1.50 is finally back where it belongs, this time with a Davis Diesel soft mount in its firmest configuration. The TurboHeader is next.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Hi Larry,
The only prop you have listed there that comes anywhere close to the torque peak r.p.m. is the 15X7 (3 blade?)

Personally, I would prefer to prop it for somewhere in-between the torque and H.P. peaks, which should be around 8,000 to 9,000...

The larger / steeper pitched props are lugging it down too much, and you are more than likely going to over-heat it and wear out the con rod prematurely...(among other things )

My friends 1.25 runs exceptionally well with an APC 17X6 (on 15% Powermaster )

Your 16X8 would also be a good choice...or if you really want a 3 blader, find one that loads the engine close to the same as the 16X8.

Sharpeye_2

Thanks Proptop,
Your info is very helpfull. I have not however gotten 8000 out of the engine yet even with the breakin zinger 16x8 2 bladed prop. I have been running it rich on the bench slowly turning in the high needle. Top RPM to date is 7880 on the zinger. I am set on a 3 bladed prop for it is going into an early spitfire. I will pick up some 14 inch props and do some more testing.
Thanks again.

Larry Hebert

RVM

Spun a Xoar 15x6 on my 100 today. 100 has about 3/4 gallon through it. Around 91F outside. 25% Omega fuel. Peaked it around 9150-9200. Not real high, but I swear it is pulling harder than the APC 15x6 at 9900 or so I had. Anyone else tried it? What were the results?

the pope

Ok guys I want to join the club , i have just got a 82 and as the instructions are a little vauge I want to know If a13x7 apc is good for breakin? Also the valve lash seems a little tight with the exhaust having no discernable gap. Any way I set them both to.002.I am used to OS four strokes being spot on out of the box.Is it common for the gap to be out? Cheers the pope

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 13-7 should be fine.

Watch your temperature when breaking in

Its not unusual to see out of tolerance valve gaps on a Saito

Birman

w8ye or Hobbsy, what prop do you recommend for breaking in a 100?

Onelimey

I hear everyone talking about temperature during run-in and flying, is there a portable temp guage that you can buy?

Tanks
Andy Elesky

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

There are a few out there... one from Tower... [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXLXW8[/link] I think tower has another one too.

I don't know what max temp to look out for with a Saito though and a lot of guys use their fingers and a quick touch. The temp gauge is certainly more scientific.

The temp gauge can also be used with electrics for temp readings on the speed controller and motor in helping to determine proper gearing based on loading for either a plane or heli.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The regular prop for a Saito 100 in general sport use is pretty much a 14-8.

But you could also use a smaller prop if that's what you have (14-6 or 13-6) and you do not over speed the engine.