Ray44

My Feedback: (4)

Greetings, I've an older FA-45 that probably could stand some internal attention (rebuild)

If I'm going to have it apart I'd like to replace bearings / piston ring / valves / pushrods / anything that moves and wears.

I'm sure replacing all is most likely unnecessary but I'd do it just the same.

Where to find parts??

I've checked Horizon's site and can't find ANY info for the 45's, do they still stock parts??
I've e-mailed them but no response so far.

Thanks For Any Info,

David Smith

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, blw, I'll try to persuade my computer to allow me to add to my sig.

I have just read through the instructions that were packaged with the 62a and they specifically instruct the user NOT to use castor! I must admit that I have been running all my OS & ASP 4 strokes on fully sythetic fuels for years without any problems.

David S

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Are you sure about forbidding the use of castor? I know the English version of the new 1.25 says that all castor is not recommended, and a mix of synthetic-castor is acceptable.

David Smith

My Feedback: (1)

Certainly, the instructions clearly state: "good quality synthetic oil for glow model airplane with 10 to 20% nitromethane content is recommended [...] the use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon"

Copied from the 62a instructions that came out of the box less than an hour ago!

David Smith

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Hi, Jerry.

That kind of flies in the face of logic/past experience. I wonder why?


Ed Cregger

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Cool Power is Omega without the castor oil.

You can run Cool Power without a problem as long as you keep the mixture on the rich side (as we all should do with any glow engine), have adequate cooling air and don't overload the engine.

Folks should remember that Saitos no longer use bushings on the connecting rod. Generally, this is not a problem, but a little castor oil in the fuel sure makes me feel better.


Ed Cregger

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

David Smith,

If you tune your .82 properly and fly as you state you will probably be able to get 15 minutes, with reserve, from the 8 ounce tank. At reduced throttle settings a well- tuned .82(or, I suspect, a well-tuned .62) just seems to sip fuel. My flying style must be similar to yours and I easily get two 12 minute flights from 16 ounces with an .82. There is always about 1/4 tank remaining.

Tuning properly is the key.

David Smith

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, I'll stick with the 6oz tank for the 62 (not so easy to change as it just fits in the 4 Star) and use an 8oz for the 82 in the Acrowot. I never liked giving too much fuel a free ride - 50% reserve is more than enough; I rarely fly for more than 10 mins at a time.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I would have no problems ignoring this recommendation from Saito. The latest manual for the U.S. that includes the .62 says the same as I mentioned above for the 1.25.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Dave, I always add 2 ounces of Klotz castor into every new bottle of Morganfuel Coolpower 15%. That will bring the total oil content to about 20%. This has worked great for me for years in all my Saitos.

scratchonly

Saito is likely refering to all castor not 2-3% castor.

jlank

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Ed I live in Fort O. Where do you fly off of grass at?

Thanks
Joel

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Ed the only thing we can think of is that the Heli fuel has too much castor in it and it floods or cools the plug at idle. I've used other 30% and mine ran excellent (and was a thirsty son-of-a-gun)!

David Smith

My Feedback: (1)

I checked the instructions in the 82a box (bought at Christmas time in England) and the instructions re fuel are the same as they are for the 62a, BUT there is an extra sheet in the box from the UK importer which directly contradicts the instructions from Saito themselves and advises the use of 20% castor!

As I don't live in the UK and any problems would have to be dealt with by the local importer (and supplier of my 62), I think I will stick to the advice of the manufacturer.

My 4 Star 40 is now ready for the 62a, so I hope to get it running today and flying before the end of the week.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

If the ring is not pinned, and is free to rotate around the piston, then it doesn't matter where the gap is...it (the ring) will find it's own home (so to speak ) or, if the cylinder is perfectly round, will slowly rotate around the piston as the engine is running...

Most (if not all ) 4 strokes do not have pinned rings... it's not necessary, because there are no port openings in the sleeve.

the pope

Here is the instructions that came with my 82 here in Aus. regarding oil. Now I have one can I join the club?

the pope

Bugger, I cant seem to upload the instructions but it says and I quote "for the fuel, good quality synthetic oil for glow engine model airplane with 10 to 20%nitro content is recommended .Since exhaust temperature of fourstroke engine is high, use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon."

XJet

It's been my experience that *all* oils create some measure of carbon inside an engine. The difference is that many synthetics seem to create a layer that (while taking much longer to accumulate) is a damned sight harder to remove than the softer deposits that come from castor.

A Saito will run fine with either synth, castor or a blend. However, straight synth will cause your camshaft/lifters to wear more quickly and won't provide much after-run anti-corrosion protection. Straight castor *will* cause a faster build-up of deposits in the engine (mainly in the exhaust valve/port area. A blend of castor/synth therefore is (IMHO) the best compromise.

Just enough castor to protect the cam/lifters but not so much as to cause excessive carbon build-up.

It's simple really.

However, I know there are lots of folks who will prefer to run straight synth. This just means that (no matter how rich they run their engines) their camshafts will wear out quicker and they will probably experience more problems with bearing corrosion (unless a rigorous after-run oil regimen is adhered to).

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

What about the synthetic Omega fuels, which state that no after-run is necessary? Says so right on the bottle.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

the pope is #534


flycfii- Omega contains some castor

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I use Omega and had a 2 stroke Magnum XLS 46A rust on me. I absolutely believe in using after run oil. I use ATF as recommended by Bill Robison no rust since.
John

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Omega has some castor and some people feel it isn't enough. I add a couple of ounces to each gallon. I've seen where this prohibits rust where ARO is never used.

jessiej

Sadly, during the course of history there have been several instances of advertising claims not being borne out by experience with a given product. In any event a teaspoon of ATF, Rislone, etc. is of negligible cost and takes only a minimum of time and effort. Very cheap insurance.

jess

swixtt

i have another question about mounting my 100 Saito inverted. i did some test runs(taxi on the runway) with it today IN the airplane and discovered i had a tough time running it without the glow ignitor on. once i leaned it out i was able to get it to run pretty well without it on. so ... for a 100 what or how many turns 'within reason' is in the range. i realize that the manuals say 5 out for first run and then turning down after that. i haven't got a tac just yet but will borrow my father's and test it out. anyway, these engines will run OK without glow driver and being inverted, no?
thanks for any responses!

cheers

David Smith

My Feedback: (1)

Could have saved yourself the trouble and copied my post from a couple of days ago!

Or maybe I should have waited and copied yours.