RCWI

yes the low speed has not been leaned out at all. Could I hurt the engine by flying with it the way it is?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

You can't hurt it, but it won't run nearly as well as it could. It probably will shake a lot being that overly rich. It will run far better when you get the tuning set close to where it should be, and fuel consumption will go down a lot. You should see a jump in power.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

You'll notice a big difference when you lean it out. Will get rid of that bumpy Harley sound too.

RCWI

sweet: thanks alot you guys!!

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i am replacing bearings in a 1.00, .72, .82. they are low time enignes, bought two used, and none had consistant ARO. I opened 1.00 today, definitely feel resistance while turning the crank after the piston and cam shaft have been removed. the crank and cam (very slight) have a visible sheen of rust on it, should i do anything to clean that? even rubbing w/a paper towel should clean some what, any advice?
i set the crank w/the pin that connects to the rod straight up, i noted the positon of the cam (there was a small indent on the surface of the cam bearing support, or cylindrical section of the cam). is there a scientific way to set the cam tooth position at re assembly? i only took the four screws out of the cover and lifted it off the crankcase.
i don't see any problems beyond that.
jon

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

With the piston at the top, the dot goes straight down

If you remove the intake cam follower, you can stick the small end of the pushrod down though the cam follower hole and insert the pushrod into a oil hole in the cam. This will lock the cam in position with the dot straight down

The small end of the push rods goes towards the rocker arms

Set the valves .002" - .004" or .04mm - .1mm

The chamfered side of the rod big end hole goes towards the crank counter weight

There's a gasket under the cam box. Do not damage it. Reuse the original gasket if it is undamaged.

The crank will not come out until you take the propeller drive flange off with a gear puller

Jonathan.Lam

Can someone tell me why my tappets keep on popping out, it causes me to loose all compression, and cuts the engine off.
I've attached a picture of what is actually popping out ( in the circle drawn on the picture )
Its that stick kind of thing

The valve clearance is the same as the one in the manual...at 0.002

Thanks
Jonathan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You are having a valve sticking causing excessive clearance in this area and the push rod jumps out of the socket of the adjuster

Sometimes a corner of the socket is chipped off and will let the pushrod jump out.

scratchonly

I run a 120 on a 10lb pitts; I find a 15 x 6-7 the right prop.

Jonathan.Lam

so0o what can i do to help it?

RCWI

Can someone tell me what rpms i should get with a saito 1.25 using a 14x9 three blade, or a 16x8 two blade, or 15x10 two blade. Thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Are the pushrods installed with the pointed ends up and what rpm are you turning it?

Jonathan.Lam

yes the pointed ends up, i dont know what rpm it is at [], would it make a big difference?[&:]

Could the screw be warn?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If you're turning it over 11,000 it could dislodge the pushrods quite easily.

cje0114

My Feedback: (27)

Hey guys. I seem to have had an issue with my new 1.25 today.

On the 5th or 6th flight, it wanted to lean out around half of a tank and bog out when pulling vertical. It got pretty hot here in NJ today, so this might have just been the heat and humidity, but it only happened in the air while flying. After I noticed the problem, I landed to check things out. First things first, I gave full throttle and held the nose up. It didn't have any problems and kept pulling strong.

I wound up richening the high end almost a half of a turn out, and it seemed to solve the problem.

I just find it weird that this only happened half way in to the flight.

Any thoughts?

Chris

blw

My Feedback: (3)

This is probably normal. Going into a vertical upline will tend to make fuel draw more difficult. Also, depending on tank location/etc, it could be leaning out as your fuel level gets low.

Was this at full throttle? The low speed has effect up until around 75-80% throttle. If you were not at full throttle, check your low speed setting.

Heat and humidity has effect. Remember, this engine is basically barely broken in enough to fly a model. You still have a long ways to go, but it sure is good as you get closer. I've experienced some needle valve setting fluctuations as the engine continued to break in. Keep listening for it when you are in the air. BTW, you did go to wide open and pause before you lifted the nose up to check it, right?

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

What a loss. No one knew Saito engines like Bill and he put so much time into helping people in this forum, I will miss him.

JettPilot

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I just barely got to know of Bill Robison and even I miss him a lot (not knowing him well). We have lost a very valuable resource.

However, we are blessed in the sense that we have other valuable folks in our forums that are very knowledgable, such as Hobbsy, W8YE and a host of others. No, no one will be Bill Robison, but we will get by.


Ed Cregger

Jonathan.Lam

is there anyway i can help prevent the pushrods from popping out?

Thanks

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Check the rocker arm contact area for voids/pits. If they are voided or pitted, replace them. It is not normal for this to happen without there being a problem with the rocker arms, unless your lash was gigantic.


Ed Cregger

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

If the prop is too small for the displacement, it will over rev and possibly float the valves. What engine and prop are you using?
Carbon buildup on the valve stem can cause the valve to close too slowly and let the pushrod pop out. Spray some carb cleaner on the valve stems and push the valve open with you finger to work it in.
Good luck, MikeB

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Acetone works well for this too. Let it puddle up.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i put the new ceramic bearings in my 1.00. had a bit of trouble setting the new bearings, put back in the oven and drew it all tight w/the prop nut. i read on the rc-bearings web site not to draw it cold, it will damage the bearings. required a little force, but slid in. once finished, it rolls very well and seems smooth. the front sealed bearing is leaking really bad. i wonder if placing it in the oven (a little over 250-275F) for maybe 10 minutes to allow me to seat the bearings melted the seal.
i run wildcat 15% nitro/18% synthetic+a little castor. 14x8 MA. it seems to run well, idled down to 2100, excellent transition, tuned the HS at WOT upto 9000 and seemed to knock just a little. the HS was barely 1 full turn from closed to get that rpm. is it possible that i am off 1 tooth on the camshaft. i eyeballed the highest point on the crankshaft and the dimple in the camshaft gear to align with the crank. that seems like an unscientific way of doing it. the os engine, you can see the dimple in the cam gear as you put it in, real easy.
the .82, i opened up and only saw a slight brown discoloration on the race (and rolls very smoothly), is it worth replacing? the 1.00 definitely had visible rust on the surface and when removed, had resistance.
any advice?
jon

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The gear is easy to set if you make a mark on the top part of the cam gear before setting it. Some pens will leave enough of a mark to see.

Discoloration is sometimes normal, but not always there. I recently saw some bad bearings in a Saito .80 that were shiny and new looking after running Omega with several ounces of drug store castor added to each jug. If they feel smooth and you are sure it isn't rust, then try it out and see.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I put the 40 minutes on the Saito82 then installed in a 4*40 inverted. Took off like a home sick angel. Still running rich on bottom and top end. At full throttle and 13x7 APC, it was disappearing in our smoke filled sky in short order. Talk about throttle response! Got two flights in tonight, mostly at lower throttle settings. Didn't take much throttle to fly. Both flights were ~ 12 minutes using about 2/3rd's of a 10 oz tank. It is running a bit rough, hope it smooths out with time and tuning. My Saito 65 is super smooth, but lacks the grunt that this 82 has. Hope to get it out again tomorrow.