Captcrunch44

thanks that helps
crunch

iflyfisher

Okay Ken6PPC, I am mounting the tank in my Ultimate and the spray bar of the Saito 150 is about at the level of the top of the tank as opposed to the center. I can flip the carb over and put the spray bar lower, but then the throttle lever rubs against the top of my cowl, and I don't know that I can even get a wire up there to control it. I might be able to mount my tank at a bit of an angle, which could raise the centerline about a half inch, but the spray bar will still be well above the center line. Am I going to have problems?

Ken

AKFireMedic

My Feedback: (2)

I think you will have less problem with the tank center line a bit below the spray bar than above it. Your engine should be fine sucking fuel out of the tank. It does it all the time when vertical.

kwjames

I am sure the answer to my question is on the 400 plus pages but don't have the time to read them all. I had a Saito 82 and now the 100. I love the engine but there sure seems to be alot of vibration in the 82 and even more in the 100. My prop is balanced nice. It is not in the spinner because it is the same with them on or off. I can not keep things tight. Lost my whole muffer and pipe today. I was looking at a hyde mount. The problem with the planes i have now is the carb is almost on the firewall it it is alittle to far forward if I had a hyde mount it woul be almost 3/4 to farward. Anybody have any ideas for me.
Ken

Ken6PPC

There is a small set screw on the throttle lever. Loosen it, and you can swivel it and lock it down in a different position. Can you pivot the throttle lever around to a position where you can get to it with a control wire? If you can't, you might have to use something like this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD939&P=7

I wish I had a picture to show you, but I don't. Perhaps someone else will post one to show you how this setup works. Basically, it allows you to mount the control arms shown in the link to your motor mount, and then connect your throttle servo to one of them. The carb's throttle lever is connected to it, so that when you move the arm on the motor mount, it moves the throttle lever on the carb. It's hard to describe, but it makes perfect sense if you see one.

If you can make a direct connection, I think that is best. Try pivoting the throttle lever first.

Edited to add: There is another alternative. You might be able to use a cable instead of a rod to connect your throttle servo. Here is a link to one of those:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=SUL515

TimC

Here's a photo of a tiller arm set-up installed:

boogermancan

cool power should leave a smoke trail. imho add some pure AA castor oil to it i use sig brand
i have used cool power Pro-Pattern 20% 25%less smokeing Heli Blends 20%30% smokes more
atm im useing power master ys/saito 20/20 with some castor oil in it it smokes nice . but no black smoke .
now in my other motors wispers and looks to see if any one is looking cough other brand 2 stroke waves hands and useing the force dont notice other name.
they only run cool power heli 30%no castor oil .none have ever made black smoke .might be something in your fuel .how dose the motor run?dose it over heat?

MatheusC20XE

well.. in the owner´s manual of Saito, said to give preference to fuels that DON´T use castor oil, only synthetic oil..

I using Rich´sBrew 16% oil and 10% nitro.. but i will come back to R.Brew 20% oil and 20% nitro. It´s use 15% synthetic and only 5% castor.



cheers,


Matheus S. Almeida

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Matheus,

The Saito manual reads different in some marketing areas.

I've used the Rich's brew like you do for some time. I also use Morgan's Omega with pretty much the same formulation.

kryptonite

I had a great weekend at the field with my 1.25 Saito powered Twist 60 - what a joy to fly with an engine with such an incredible throttle response. When I got home, I primed and lubed the engine with after-run oil as I always do after each day and then I noticed something that seems disturbing - by hand, the engine seems to turn over somewhat 'rough'. I remember the Saito does not feel silky smooth to turn as my small engines - but it seems like it got a lot rougher now. []
If I grip the prop firmly and rock it - I notice a tiny amount of lateral play on the crankshaft. Unfortunately I cannot remember if it used to be like this when new.

The engine is about 10 months old and has about 2.5 gallons of Coolpower MV for 4 strokes, always ran smoky rich and engine is lubed with Hobbico Afterrun oil through the crankcase vent.

How can you tell if the bearings are going or gone? I hate to take apart this motor to check, what are the usual symptoms that they are failing?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There will normally be a little twist play in the engine

To be able to move the front of the prop driver washer left and right and up and down would be a bad bearing

A gritty feel ing would be a bad bearing.

donkey doctor

Hello; A friend brought over two older Saitos for me to go through. He hadn't run either engine for 10 years and was just completing a couple of planes for the Saitos. One was an older 45 Mk 2 and the other a high compression 80. The 80 felt rough, notchy when I turned it over by hand. I opened up the back cover and liberally applied ari tool oil, every thing looked good. I re-assembled it and bolted it to a bench mount and spun it up with a starter to distribute the fresh air tool oil. The engine smoothed out so that I couldn't feel any grittiness when rotating it by hand. I added fuel and lit up the glo plug and it fired and ran smoothly and queitly. I shut it down and checked for hot spots, none. It started with a little back flip and ran out the tank. I returned the 80 and told him that it's ready to go, nothing needed.

The 45 wouldn't fire. It didn't feel rough and had good compression, but the pipe was an aluminum straight pipe that Mike had put on after breaking the original off in a crash. I plan to take a pipe off one of my 45's and try that, also I think a new glo plug is all that engine needs.

I don't replace bearings until I'm sure that they are noisy while running. It's a distinctive sound that can't be ignored. The 80's bearings felt gritty, but a little air tool oil and the grittiness dissappeared, and the engine ran great, no noise at all.

kryptonite

Thanks for the info. I think the little play is then normal. No, there is no movement on the prop driver.
Now as far as the gritty feel - I'm hesistant to say there is none - it does not feel silky smooth like a BB - not exactly a gritty feel, but rough like an unoiled bushing. I just hope that this is not an indicator that the bearings are beginning to go. I found this place rc-bearings.com that sells ceramic bearings that are not too expensive - and they sound like a great alternative to the standard steel bearings used in the Saito. The website briefly explains how to replace the bearings - and it seems like a complete dismantling. I'm great at taking things apart - but hopeless at putting them back together again.

I wonder if there is a bearing replacement service out there - I doubt Horizon Hobby will be willing to put aftermarket ceramic bearings for me.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You are correct. Bearing replacement demands almost complete disassembly of the engine into major components.

Bill Jensen
51 Hillside Dr.
Beacon Falls, CT 06403
203 888 4819
[email protected]
www.bj-model-engines.com


On a four stroke engine, the cam followers rubbing on the cam will often give them a draggy feel compared with today's two strokes

scratchonly

Try adjusting your 91 with a 1/2 tank. I have a 91 and it"s flawless on omega 15%.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

this is a much answered question - i know, i have asked it too. the .82 has been blamed to vibrate like a jackhammer (mine did), until broken in and adjust the LS. i almost wanted to throw it away for a while. run it thru (4) 10 minute runs at about 3 - 3 1/2 turns on the HS - 4000 rpm, 4500 rpm, 5k, 6k (or somehting like that). then tune the HS to just 200 off peak. i never run an engine at peak and full throttle fo rmore than 30 -60 seconds; note the positon of the set screw in the needle, back off 1 turn for 20 seconds or more (to cool the cylinder), then back to just off peak, this is for extended runs at WOT fo rmore than 30 - 60 seconds. then with the HS where it needs to be, set throttle to an idle, should idle reliably under 2k and have good transistion. try turning the LS in till the engine dies, then open 1/8 - 1/4 turn. check the HS while adjusting the LS, they affect each other.
the vibration you have is in the needle adjustment.
jon

stallwart

Although I can't document the break in procedure for my 82a in such detail as jb86, mine runs smoothly at all rpm. Admittedly, it is not as free from vibration at 1800-1900 rpm idle.

I have noted it is slightly more difficult to start these days--might be the heat or it's time for valve adjustment--but once running is flawless.

This engine was my first 4-stroke and I have never experienced a dead stick with it in an estimated 350 flights! I'v yet to successfully tune a Magnum or RCV.

AKFireMedic

My Feedback: (2)

Wow, on board glow? Mine idles well at about 2100 or so...any lower and I'm afraid it might die.

Tbone4life

I've heard a few guys at the air feild say that their saitos idle as low as a harley? I dont really think they have put a tach on it at idle though. Mine (saito 100) will idle at 1800 with onboard glow driver and P/M YS20/20 with no problems. I just bought a gallon of P/M 30%Heli to see if that will get it to idle at 1800 or 1900 without the glow driver.

I posted a while back about the plane (ultra stick .60) moving at 1800 rpm idle, I was mistaken with what it was taching[], it had to have been higher because it no longer moves at 1800 rpm or 1900?

skillet92

PLEASE HELP!!!! I have 2 saito 125 and one just been switched out for the other in my 100X because it will not take the throttle at max. It just dies right out. I thought the engine was bad so i had a new one in the box that i decided to switch out for and try. I broke the new one in and by-god it is doing the same thing. They will run at idle and half throttle but jump up and down at full or just die out and cut off. What other things can cause this.

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

skillet, sounds like bad fuel or maybe a bad plug.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

If it is putting out a lot of smoke at wide open, then it is way too rich. If not, then it could be too lean. Did you break the engines in and then adjust the needle valves on your 1.25's?

kryptonite

Did you test both engines using the same fuel tank setup. I suspect the plumbing - either air leaks in the main line, the muffler pressure line or the tank is placed too low relative to the carb level.

skillet92

I have tried both in the plane with the fuel system setup the same way and it did do the same thing. I did top off the fuel jug that i was using this past weekend with the same fuel out of a new jug the day it started i jut never would have thought that fuel in an unopened container that was sealed could be the problem. It has the same color as the other jugs. Last night i did remove the tank and check all the lines and changed the glow plug. I will try it tonight with another jug of fuel and see. Can fuel cause that even thought it runs atidle and up to 5000-6000 rpm and then starts to act up.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Something about fuel and fuel jugs- an older plastic jug can ruin new fuel if it was previously contaminated by bad fuel. I have no idea if this is the problem for you.