William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

Looks good, but the rod is not sand cast, it's forged.

I have used the Teflon buttons for the K&B ringed 40 and the K&B ringed 61 engines in many applications that didn't say "K&B" on the outside, these two sizes have covered every thing I've needed them for, I get them from MECoA.

Bill.

car147

Breaking my Saito 180 in , running a 18x6 APC.. i am now onto the fourth tank and getting just over 8100 rpm on the tacho.
i dropped it 300 rpm from this. I guess i should be getting higher figures and she's not broken in yet?

Idle's nice at just over 2000. very cold day 650ft above sea level.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Bill,

I respect your opinion immensely. But, are you sure about this? Take a look at these close up pictures. I dunno, but I thought forgings used stamping dies under extreme pressure making for smooth edges all around, topside and backside. This sure looks cast to me. I could very well be wrong. Just saying it looks like a casting to me with the rough, uneven edges and the totally flat back like it was 'poured in' from the top.

http://www.fototime.com/02F8FAB47A4A325/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/6B7B5ED9EE7DA52/orig.jpg

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

Hallo Lasse,

Dein English ist sehr Deutche, wo "j" = "y", und "v" = "w"

Ich bin frolich dass dein velocity stack gebet dir mehr HP.

Bitte, mein Deutche ist sehr Amerikan.[&:]

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

Hard to tell from your pictures, it could be stamped, but certainly not cast.

Casting tends to have a disorganized grain structure, weak, and casting is prone to crystallization, also a weakness. Further, casting too easily can have bubbles internally, or other inclusions. I just can't see a cast rod being strong enough.

Saito has been using forged rods for quite a while, currently we are seeing some with machined billet rods, but none are cast.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Okay Bill, I take your word for it. Sure did fool me. But yes, that makes sense doesn't it? Not having a cast connecting rod!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I should have stuck with ol' reliable Krylon! The Duplicolor black paint has chipped and flaked off in many areas especially the backplate. I will have to redo that part.

I found my old stash of teflon wrist pin buttons. I mocked up the engine just to admire it. I still need to pull the head down so I can make the water jacket. I like it so far!

tophat

My Feedback: (1)

Hello saito club
I have 2-fa 100,1-91s,and just purchased a 150(H).can anyone tell me what the "H" stands for.I love these engines and have had no problems with any of them.Thanks
Randy

iflynething

Mr. Robinson, what do you mean by the different degrees of duration. My dad isn't around to answer this (which I'm sure he would be able to) but what does that mean.

So what you're saying is .002 would be the optimal setting for valve clearance. I am running Coolpower 15% nitro 18% oil (100% synthetic)

Are you saying that if I were running something like Byron which has castor and I had the clearance set to .002 then they would be ruined after a very shor time?

Thanks for the help

~Michael~

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Member number 117 is now tophat.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

My conversion to a boat engine is finished. I took a lot of measurements and may still make an enclosed water jacket someday if necessary. But for now I hammered out a coil for the cooling. All it needs is a flywheel and coupler. Oh, and a hull!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

Back on the cast rod business. For many years Technopower radials had a cast master rod, this limited their red line to 6000 rpm. When they went to a billet master rod the maximum operating speed jumped to 8000 rpm, with the red line evn higher.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

And your little engine looks nice.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Thank you sir!

solafein

#70 here
I am having a little difficulty with my .91. After coming off a 45 degree down line at idle I throttle back up to full throttle to make an Immelman turn. The engine comes back up rough and dies at 90 degrees, straight up, at about the time I want to throttle down for the second half of the half loop. Sometimes it just dies at the top of the cobra without rolls that I am coming out of. I have been practicing the Sportsman sequence with this plane for a couple of months now, and have about 100 flights on this motor. It just started this little glitch on Monday. I plan on removing the tank as soon as I finish this, to inspect it. If this doesn't shed light on the subject, does anyone have any ideas? The local boys have no idea, other than they think my bottom end is too lean, when I have good smoke.

solafein

I answered my own question, crack in my fuel line.

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Nr. 57 here, William !

Did I understand you correctly " install a pair of Saito FS 100's in the Super Duellist " if so it would surely reduce the nose heavy tendency of the bird...I gotta get back to it soon. Any other recomendations I should take note of when I get them on the bench.

BTW: Stopped at the LHS this morning and was offered a (looks like an Ultlimate) but kind of hack job though. Too Big a rudder, Too small Stab and wings like from a 60 size and the fuse from QTR scale...I donakno surely not a kit job..but they say it does fly..

Comes with a JR 6 channel System complete, A quick look into the cowl reveiled a Saito GK 1.8 but with silver rocker covers...possible damage replacement..??? First run Saito as it was stamped with an A on the mount lug. Exhaust was a pipe with a bit of a bend not a muffler as persay... It hasn't flown for about two years now.. So turning the prop just revealed low compression like conjealed castor oil residadue.

The whole system is going for $ 250.00 maybe can get it for less....
Then dump the Radio and the Plane at the local auction coming up this spring.. am thinking about $75 per each. Maybe a Saito 1.8 FS for about a 100.00+

Is the 1.80 of that vintage worth that...I would say Yes.. But what say you guys?

Doug in Denver

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Sol:

My first thought was rich on the low end, but lean is possible too.

If it came on suddenly with no other changes lean is actually more probable. You could have picked up a very small bit of trash, or more likely there's a pin hole in a fuel line. Change all the hoses and see what happens.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Sol:

It's not nice to post the answer while I'm typing a guess. Haw.
-------------------
Doug:

I don't know where they have come from, but I've seen other black FA-180 engines with the chromed rocker covers, and the owners swear they haven't replaced them.

I wouldn't place too much faith in the "A" code meaning first run either. However, the oldest FA-180 still isn't that old.

Bill.

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Ok, Bill,

I'll take a squirt of good fuel with and give it a couple of shots...I could detect no rough bearings of klicks or clacks but then with thick castor coating it all I probably wouldn't.

Thanks for the information..

Doug in Denver

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Doug:

Sorry, overlooked a couple questions/comments. Yes, the FA-100 engines would do a real job in the Super Duellist, but with the release of the FA-125a I might look at them with more favor than the FA-100s. About 2 1/2 ounces each heavier than the FA-100s, but even more power. If you already have a pair of 100 engines though, I'd stay with them. Cost about $680 less to use what you have.

Regards the plane at the LHS - get it and try it. Might be a great flier that you will want to keep forever. Regardless, if you can get $150 for the plane and radio, even a run out FA-180 is worth a buck - it doesn't cost that much to do a major on one.

Bill.

mtnmnstr

My Feedback: (2)

I thinking of buying my second Saito new, But which one. This is the plane I'm buying for. I'm still very new to 4 strokes and there power bands.

DH Beaver
1550mm Wingspan 20-35 Two Stroke or 25-40 Four Stroke powered

http://www.airsailmodels.co.nz/shopp...ontrol+Kitsets

Gene

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

mtnmnstr: man, you just missed out. I just had one of these NIB in the market place for $125.

I would get the 40 size Saito. This plane will need the nose weight and if it seems too powerful you always have your throttle stick to compensate.

bub8golf

My Feedback: (2)

i"M new to 4stokes ,if made a custom header for my saito 100 do i need a fuel pump?

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I never cease to amaze myself! It actually runs! lol...

Okay, this is only for you warped gearheads out there!

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=68577

And if you're truly twisted, half speed!

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=68574

Watch the little rocker arms!