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Old 10-04-2007, 06:34 AM
  #8651  
CHAWKJIM
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I HAVE A SAITA 220 MOUNTED INVERTED AND I CANNOT GET THIS BEAST TO IDLE? ANY SUGGESTIONS.
Old 10-04-2007, 07:30 AM
  #8652  
Hobbsy
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You didn't tell us what fuel, what prop, what glow plug, did you set it up to idle perfectly when upright in a test stand?
Old 10-04-2007, 07:38 AM
  #8653  
Terry 5
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Thanks to Hobbsy, it no longer does that. But you know Ive always wanted a canard
Old 10-04-2007, 07:56 AM
  #8654  
boogermancan
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my 125 did ran back wards in my twist one time when i was brakeing it in befor i had it tuned up eyes got big as it backed up about 10 feet lol i need a brake end stand
Old 10-04-2007, 09:19 AM
  #8655  
w8ye
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Cape, make sure you fuel tank is even with the needle valve.
Old 10-04-2007, 10:16 AM
  #8656  
Terry 5
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Cape, take a look back at Hobbsy Post. I had the same problem and now Its working right, My LS is now set several turns leaner than the factory setting of even with throttle arm. That was to rich of a setting and I could not get a good idle. Now I am at about 1800 to 2K idle with 7900 top end 19/8 prop and pulling 19 to 20 lbs. of thrust. My Ls is about 1/16 in past throttle arm.
Old 10-04-2007, 12:17 PM
  #8657  
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I mounted a Saito 72 inverted in one of my planes and had nothing but trouble. Hydro-locking, rough idle, etc. After I installed a Cline regulator it ran great! The tank was a tad too high in reference to the carb spraybar so the carb was getting too much fuel.

The Saito 91 that I'm rebuilding was also mounted inverted using the Cline. Idle was around 2100 and tached up to around 9500 with good transition- just sounded horrible because it needed new bearings, piston ring, etc.

Marl
Old 10-05-2007, 10:46 AM
  #8658  
vince.b
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I ordered the 220 Black Night for more H9 Sundowner. This will be my first 4 stroke ever.
I have alot of 30% power master and cool power heli fuel for this big block.
The plan is to run a 16x14 mejlic but I am thinking it might unload to much at speed. Mejlic also makes a 16.5x14.5 3 blade that might not unload at speed as much. what do you guys think?
Old 10-05-2007, 11:51 AM
  #8659  
Kmot
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FG-36 is up on Horizon now:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAIEG36&utm_source=rcu&utm_medium=banner&utm_campaign=rcu_fts&utm_content=SAIFG-36(220G)
Old 10-05-2007, 12:03 PM
  #8660  
vince.b
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the FG looks cool but I dont like the smell of gas.
Will be nice to see the numbers on the gas versus the 30% nitro.
Old 10-05-2007, 02:12 PM
  #8661  
blw
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BobReeves- that is a good collection of Saitos. You are now member #555. Welcome aboard!
Old 10-05-2007, 04:43 PM
  #8662  
Jimmy Hoffa
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My saito 82 won't run unless I pressurize the fuel tank with my hand crank pump. There were no leaks in any of the fuel tubing inside or outside the tank. The clunk is free and I replaced all of the tubing. When I put an electric starter on it fuel moves towards the carb. The plug is dry though. I blew compressed air through the needle valve hole and the fuel line hole. Now I have the carb apart and it's completely clean. It ran perfect last week as it always has. No modifications were done to any part of the fuel system or engine since it was last flown. I'm at wits end. HELP!
Phillip
Old 10-05-2007, 04:55 PM
  #8663  
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What's happening with the vent line?
Old 10-05-2007, 06:04 PM
  #8664  
Jimmy Hoffa
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Wing-Ding,
The vent line is plugged into the muffler. I have a 3rd line that I use for fueling and it is plugged with a fuel dot. Since my last post, I tried running it again using a fuel pump for pressure and it backfired thru the carb and didn't run very well and wouldn't pull more than about 5,000rpm max without stalling. This is the only way to get it to fire up at all.
Phillip
Old 10-05-2007, 06:59 PM
  #8665  
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This seems extremely unlikely, but.... could the valve timing be off? The Saito 91 that I'm currently rebuilding would not pull fuel into the carb even though I used an electric starter. Once I re-timed the valves, it started right up and ran fine (except for the horrible mechanical noises due to other problems).

But if it was running ok recently, then I would think it impossible for the valve timing to change unless something in the engine physically broke. Oh- how 'bout this?: Is one of the valves stuck open or perhaps the valve clearance has changed a lot? That might make it behave that way- just a thought.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how can you pressurize the tank with your hand crank if the vent line is connected to the muffler? Do you have a check valve installed?
Old 10-05-2007, 07:06 PM
  #8666  
rchotrod
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On my Saito FA90t, I went back and reset the needles to starting settings. Low speed 5 turns from closed and high speed 2 turns from closed. Haven't trided tuning again yet. Thinking about going to a lower percent nitro, 10 maybe even 5%. But will try tuning again this weekend.

Would it cause any harm to the engine to tune up one cylinder at a time? Fire up one side, tune it, shut down, fire up other side, tune it, shut down. Then fine tune both. Would I need to remove opposite side plug? This was an idea from another modeler at the local hobby shop. And now I am here to see how good, or bad, this idea may be.

Plane is ready for test flights as soon as I get engine running well and get the rest of the electronics installed. Oh and as soon as we get rid of this cold front pushing the high 20 to 35mph winds through here.

See ya,
Rod
Old 10-05-2007, 07:10 PM
  #8667  
w8ye
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Saito's sometimes have sticking valves and lifters. Rare but it does happen.

They can be somewhat spasmodic about this occurrence and cause additional frustration.

The exhaust valve gets carbon around the stem that has to be removed.

Ive seen various problems with the lifters that cause them to stick.
Old 10-05-2007, 07:47 PM
  #8668  
Jimmy Hoffa
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ORIGINAL: Wing-Ding

This seems extremely unlikely, but.... could the valve timing be off? The Saito 91 that I'm currently rebuilding would not pull fuel into the carb even though I used an electric starter. Once I re-timed the valves, it started right up and ran fine (except for the horrible mechanical noises due to other problems).

But if it was running ok recently, then I would think it impossible for the valve timing to change unless something in the engine physically broke. Oh- how 'bout this?: Is one of the valves stuck open or perhaps the valve clearance has changed a lot? That might make it behave that way- just a thought.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how can you pressurize the tank with your hand crank if the vent line is connected to the muffler? Do you have a check valve installed?
The valve timing should not have changed because the motor was not disassembled. After my first post I checked the valve clearance and it was very slightly loose and the valves don't seem to be sticking. To pressurize the tank I used hemostats to clamp the line that runs to the muffler and used the fill line to put the pressure in (not a dumb question). ;-)
Phillip
Old 10-05-2007, 07:59 PM
  #8669  
Jimmy Hoffa
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

Saito's sometimes have sticking valves and lifters. Rare but it does happen.

They can be somewhat spasmodic about this occurrence and cause additional frustration.

The exhaust valve gets carbon around the stem that has to be removed.

Ive seen various problems with the lifters that cause them to stick.
w8ye,
This motor only has about 3 gallons thru it so I don't think carbon is the problem. Plus I use synthetic oil and that seems to keep it free of carbon.

I have another Saito 82 on the work bench so I could pull the carb off of that one and try it to isolate the cause. I'll also double check the valves to make sure neither one is sticking. This is crazy because I ran about a half a gallon thru it one day last week and it ran perfect. I spent about 2 hours trying everything possible to get it to run at the field today. My Saitos have always started in about 2 or 3 seconds and I've never had a dead stick.
Phillip
Old 10-05-2007, 09:10 PM
  #8670  
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i know you cheak the lines. but i had one that did the same thing and i check the lines and thay were ok but like you i spent a day at the field and could not get it to run. i checked the supply line agen and at the very end were it hooked to the carb. there was a pin hole. i found it by useing a saringe and just barly puting the fitting in the line. and plug the presher line. or could you have a bad o-ring on the intake pipe? c-crunch
Old 10-05-2007, 09:13 PM
  #8671  
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hi all
wares a good place to get barings for my 56? also are ceramic barings werth the extra dollers. c-crunch
Old 10-05-2007, 09:29 PM
  #8672  
w8ye
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http://www.rc-bearings.com/
Old 10-05-2007, 10:14 PM
  #8673  
Jimmy Hoffa
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ORIGINAL: c-crunch

i know you cheak the lines. but i had one that did the same thing and i check the lines and thay were ok but like you i spent a day at the field and could not get it to run. i checked the supply line agen and at the very end were it hooked to the carb. there was a pin hole. i found it by useing a saringe and just barly puting the fitting in the line. and plug the presher line. or could you have a bad o-ring on the intake pipe? c-crunch
I replaced all of the tubing including the supply line inside the fuel tank. I put another carb on it tonight and will test it tomorrow.
With all this testing it's about time to make an engine stand.
Phillip
Old 10-05-2007, 11:52 PM
  #8674  
boogermancan
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may sound silly but is the check valve working right try bypassing the check valve
Old 10-06-2007, 06:07 AM
  #8675  
Jimmy Hoffa
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ORIGINAL: boogermancan

may sound silly but is the check valve working right try bypassing the check valve
That's a good suggestion but I don't have a pressurized fuel system. I was using my fuel filling pump to pressurize the tank manually just for testing.

I've swapped the carb with another one and later today I'm going to build an engine test stand with a new fuel tank.
Phillip


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