Captcrunch44

ii would what for blw,or w8ye to answer thay have the back ground too help. if they don't they will refer you. be pashent the answer will come.

Captcrunch44

Garthwood
some times you can't see the forest threw the trees.
c-crunch

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Garthwood. Your Saito 100 looks very nice in the U-Can-Do.

All Saitos I have when the carb is mounted on the side in the picture with the arm towards the glow plug is fully open to the rear.

If you turn the carb around it will be opposite

jessiej

kaastrup, I don't have a 150, but with my other Saitos I have found that with more running time and as the low speed needle is leaned the vibration lessens.

jess

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Pattern prop for a 150?

I'm only guessing but should be in the
15 X 10 to 15 X 12N range?

Garthwood

w8ye....................thanks. Something so obvious. Yet I did'nt notice.

You and C-runch brought that to my attention.

Thanks for your nice comments.

Charles
#406

Capt Lou

c-crunch:

The Astro Hog is still in progress. I'm doing the finishing sanding and alignments and now need to attach the stabilizer and fin. I am not rushing it because I am awaiting delivery of a Futuba 7C FASST system and they are not scheduled for delivery until the end of the month. I have a Saito FA-91S to put in it but I just bought a FA-100 and will use this engine if it fits the motor mount that I have already installed. I think it will but I don't have the dimensions yet on the 100 as I am also awaiting delivery of it. I also have a Hog that I built 20 years ago that I am currently flying with a K&B .61 two stroke. It is a great plane to fly and I can't kill the K&B. I am anxious to see how a Hog flies with the 100. A building tip for you: the only modification I made to my Hog is the I completely covered the wing tips (Leading to trailing edges) with balsa and put foam inside the tips. My experience with the Hog is that tips will take a beating and you will constantly repair the monokote. This modification makes them more durable.

bisseks

can someone tell me how to stop getting the "welcome to club SAITO" email, without unsubscribing.

Thanks for your help

Capt Lou

Garthwood:

I don't know that the direction of the linkage matters. You can always revers your servo. I don't understand why the 4 Saitos I bought have the needle valve adjustment on the right side of the engine below the muffler and the control linkage on the left side. I always take the carbs off and reverse it so the needle valve adjustment is on the left

Garthwood

Christian....................A friend of mine have the Saito 150 on his Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300, I only see normal shaking with an big engine this size on a 120 size bi-plane. I see shaking but they are acceptable shaking. It's actually overpowered. I have myself the CG Ultimate 10-300 Blue Hawk with a Saito 120, I don't see the shaking. It only has about 10 flights on it, so the engine still not run in yet. My fuel is PowerMaster Heli 15/20 all synthetic. Starts on the get go. Props I've tried are APC 16x7 and APC 16X8, best prop for me is 16x8. Spinner is a Dave Brown.

I am not sure what my friend's Prop size or fuel. I know that it took him some work to get it running the way he likes, but I know for sure he is not using PowerMaster fuel. I have always used the PowerMaster Heli 15/20 all syn. with all my Saito engines, and i can never say that I get any problems with this fuel. The Saitos 120 and the Saito 150 are guzzlers in the beginning, but once they're run in, they are conservative. Saitos require warming up time and pick up a bit of higher idle as they warm up and become efficient. I prefare that bit of increased idle, as I don't want to end up with a flame out, especially on a bipe. Most of the guys on this thread have more experience than I, the above is only my opionions. I have never owned other manufacturers' 4 strokes but Saito. I have been using Saito 4 strokes for the past 5 years. Once you get to know the beast you'll stick with it, I suppose.
Your problem should be traced back step by step. Patience is paramount, if that doesn't help, send your engine to Horizon Hobby service dept.,.

Charles.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

-----------------


My K&B .61's with the Perry carb never had the problem that you describe with yours. Are you using one of the later models with a metal carb?

Ever wonder why Saito calls their FA-100 a 100, when it is actually a 1.10? I have. Your FA-100 should be quite a bit stronger in the Astro Hog, but I'll bet you knew that. Talk about unlimited vertical without winding her up from a split-S first! <G>


Ed Cregger

Garthwood

Capt Lou.................................Is'nt life interesting, it's "Like opening a box of Chocolate, you'll never know what you're going to find". Love that quote. Too true.

Charles.

scratchonly

Run it for awhile and tune it. It should settle down. Have you leaned the low end yet?

millerhill

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Guys,

I'm working on a .40 size Spitfire (Phoenix Models) and trying to decide on an engine. At the moment it's between a Saito FA-.56 and and RCV .54CD. They're both about the same price. I like the idea of the rotary engine, but it's pretty new (this model) and some have had issues. I'm also concerned about engine orientation. Seems like the RCV's don't particularly like to be mounted inverted. Will the Saito operate in any orientation without problems?

Guidance?

Steve

masonman

I really can't see much loss of power. still runs great. So the carb sucks the water in an burns it? Is that where the loss of power comes from?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito 56 has a lot more power than the RCV.

The RCV has smaller external dimensions

The Saito seems to run pretty good in all positions.

Captcrunch44

Capt Lou
there are a few thing's i did too. one is a one peace dubbler on the fuse. i have not had trubel with the wing tips. good addvice thow. also befor i sheet the center section of the wing, i join the two halves and then sheet the center all at once. seems to make it that much stronger.
i also take out half the dihedral. it still flies great!!
it's amazing no matter what you do to a hog it still flys like one. thats what makes them such a good airplane.
c-crunch

Captcrunch44

masonman
yes, part of it. also the hot wether is to blame. you know the hole less dens air thing, comes into pley. my veiw is the best time to fly is when its between 70 & 80 degrees out side, and a dew pont of about 60%. but this ant a perfict world we live in and you just have to make the best of it.
c-crunch

kaastrup

Thanks Jess, w8ye, Charles and scratchonly...

I will runs some more fuel through the engine and then try to lean the idle bit by bit, I didn't do that until now...

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

from what i hear, the .62 is the same size as the .56, lot's of power and runs real sweet.

jon

Capt Lou

c-crunch:

I like your adice on sheathing the wing center . Also, cutting the dihedral in half works well.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The external dimensions of the 62 are the same as the 56

stallwart

millerhill,

Get the 62. The one I've seen runs smoothly and is quite strong for it's size. I have a FA-82a in a 40 size SpitV (Richmodel/aka AK Models) that actually fits inside the cowl. The 62 would fly this plane well, I'm sure.

On the other hand, I have an RCV-58CD mounted inverted in a Sukhoi Su-29 that I've had no luck coaxing to run reliably.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

From what I have heard about the RCV's power output, I would opt for a little larger displacement model.

I like the HP VT.49 rotary valve engine because it is different and has no valves to adjust. I'd like to buy an RCV engine and maybe I will when they "get real" with the prices.


Ed Cregger

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ed, the RCV .58 will turn a 13x6 at 9,000 rpm on 10% nitro with 16% lube which is the recommended fuel. It is an extremely smooth and reliable engine. I don't know if that power is good or bad but it's great engine. The gears in them are noisy for about 30 minutes then they are silent.