Ken6PPC

I use a syringe too. After injecting the oil, I take the plunger out and wipe it dry. It helps the rubber last a little longer, but it does break down eventually. The syringe isn't expensive though, so I replace it as needed.

Ken6PPC

I didn't see any rust on that bearing either. Perhaps you should send that picture to Horizon, and ask them about it.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

So will using ATF as ARO give me good starts like the hobby stuff does? I find I hardly ever run into a lean starting condition when using it. But a qaurt for the same price seems all the better.

Ken6PPC

I find that starting an engine with ATF inside is not much different than if it had no oil in it. However, I'm sure that the ATF is helping to minimize the friction on all of the moving parts during startup.

All of my engines do require a little warmup time before they perform their best though. I really don't know if that is due to the oil left inside or not, but I don't intend to leave the oil out to find out. Lubrication is ALWAYS a good thing for an engine.

thrashin

Does anyone know if this is similar to CorrosionX (I don't believe we can get it here is Australia):

http://www.wd40.com.au/WD-40.html

I have been using the above for a couple of years and it seems to do a good job at protecting and lubricating my engines so far.

Cheers.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Thrashin,

Not similar at all. This is a water displacer. You will probably have to mail order CorrosionX if you can't find it at boat supply places.

XJet

Crikey, you wouldn't catch *me* putting that stuff in any of my engines!

WD40 is a *very* poor lubricant and a barely-adequate corrosion protectant. The liquid in it evaporates quite quickly and leaves a very thin film that is permeable to water.

Just get some automatic transmission fluid and be done with it.

I trued some of the CRC spray designed for wintering-over outboard motors and found that it tends to stuff glow-plugs up. Each time I used it I found my engine would cut randomly the next flying session -- until I put a new plug in.

Stick to a bit of castor in your fuel and some ARO if you're going to be laying the engine up for more than a couple of weeks.

Also, store your engines nose-up -- this ensures that the bearings aren't sitting in a pool of potentially corrosive liquid containing corrosive exhaust byproducts.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I get it from Sheldon's in California, I've seen others say they got it at a Marina.

Garthwood

Saito engines require warm up time. It's not the ATF or ARO. You'll still need to burn that off, you can smell the ATF or ARO in the smoke during the warm up time. Once they warm up I noticed an increased idle, which I like and I don't have to mess about the high end adjustment or trim, IMHO it's a good thing during landing.



Charles
#406

Garthwood

Aus...................Its been said before on other threads that WD40 is bad for these engines, it might disperse waterdroplets or moisture but it is a very poor lubricant. It's an old subject. Try ATF, Air-Tool Oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, Mobile 1, or Fogging Oil. The Fogging oil prevents Corrosion when storing engines for extended periods of time. I prefare Air-Tool Oil for extended periods of time during the winter. Like I said, this is an old subject, there's tons of info about this subject in the Club Saito.

You have seen the pictures of my front and rear bearings. They were treated with a mixture of Air-Tool Oil and Marvel Mystery Oil, applied after the day's over. Stored nose down.

Charles
#406

eltbone

Hello all,
I posted recently about putting smoke on one of my Saitos but only got negative responses from members. I am not a jerk nor trying to start a fight with anyone, just looking for a little help. I know I am going to lose power and some performance but I have decided that I am going to do it no matter what anyone says.. So if you do not have anything positve to say please just ignore this post. I know there are people out there that have the experience, just need to find the right ones.

Question: Has anyone put smoke on a Saito 1.82T ?
I have everything I need except a " smoke muffler" Just wondering if there will be any problems running smoke off of just one side of the Twin?? I have spoke with all of the companies and nobody has given me a good answer with any experience.. After speaking with a large manufactuer the thoughts are that since I can dial in each cylinder on its on (best performance) then the smoke should not really affect the way the motor works and performs..

Does anyone have any insight or thoughts on how to procede?
Should I make my own muffler first, then decide to maybe make a manifold for the exhaust? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Should I make two seperate mufflers and try to run oil to each muffler? Probably not a great idea unless I can evenly distribute the oil.. Although with the twin I think that would be a Rediculous amount of smoke....

This is a great forum and I appreciate peoples thoughts I just dont want to get hounded everytime I come on..
There is the right way to do things and the wrong way, Problem is there are so many Right/wrong ways to do things people get lost in there own opinions.

Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You cannot use the existing straight exhaust pipes. You will need a system that preheats the oil.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Wow Eltbone,
Lighten up. I went back and re-read your posts and did not find everybody jumping on you. They just said it would add approximately a pound so your planes performance would suffer.

Try this site http://www.tmenet.com/pdf/Secret%20S...ess%20Tips.pdf It's a pdf file so you can easily save it.
John

eltbone

Hey dont get me wrong.. Its not necessarily this board, just most of the boards out there. I know what your saying, I just get tired of listening to peoples make negative comments. I guess if you are going to voice an opinion about something why not voice it in both direction.. IE..
Hey you know that putting smoke is going to add alot of extra weight right? 3d fly=lightweight... But if you plan on doing it maybe you should check here or try this..
I m not perfect but I have been surfing all kinds of different forums over the past 15 years and it just gets old.

Thanks for the link, and someone else sent me a lead as well.. Thank you..
I do appreciate the response, and dont get me wrong, I enjoy getting online and getting help, vice versa..

cavandish

My first post on club saito

I have a model tech dragon lady on order & really would like to power it with a twin saito, the wing area is 872 squares, from what I can see I have a choice of FA-90TS or FA-100T they are a 27 & 29 oz the equivalent single is a little over half a pound lighter.
is a 'heavy" twin going to be a disaster waiting to happen in this plane ???

If not, which engine is more suitable ?? or the better engine ?, I certainly think that the 100 is the better looker ! It appears that one is staggered & the other opposed ? do they both fire on the same stroke ? is one smoother ?

I would appreciate any Helpfull comments re my choice of engines.

I am currently running a 82a in my rambler 45and love it.

John

blw

My Feedback: (3)

cavandish- you are member #556


Anybody else that I've missed? You have to let me know if you aren't a member so I can log you in.

Captcrunch44

yes someone makes a muffler for the saito t but i need to check with a frend to find out were he got his. let you know tomarow.
c-crunch

keithie

I`ve got a Saito 120 that has had new bearings & a new ring,the bore was also deglazed,but it is pouring out excessive fuel out of the vent & camshaft case bearing,motor starts & runs perfect with a 16x8mas @ 8800rpm any ideas as how to stop the excessive fuel
Thanks,Keithie

XJet

Who did the work on that 120?

I would be surprised if the bore needed deglazing and if it did, whoever performed such a task would have to be *very* careful because it's only an extremely thin layer of chrome in there.

Saito's *do* blow a lot of oil out the vent line.

If it's doing good power and idling okay I wouldn't worry about it.

However, if the liner has peeled (yes it *can* happen to even a Saito -- especially if someone gets zealous with a hone in the bore) then you're stuffed -- and such a plating failure would also result in far more blow-by (aka oil out the breather) than usual.

donkey doctor

Hello; All Saito engines have a total loss oiling system, where all the oil that goes into the engine comes out of the engine. Whether it comes out the exhaust or the crankcase vent is immaterial. An engine can't put out more oil then it gets in. The condition of the bore won't add or decrease the amount of oil the engine gives off. You're looking for an answer that doesn't exist.

apcdriver69

My Feedback: (7)

I took my Saito 80 apart and do not know if I got valve timing right. what is proper procedure?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The dot on the cam goes straight down with the piston at top dead center

Without taking the engine completely back apart, you can check to see if it is correct . . .

First of all the engine has to feel correct when you turn it over by hand with the throttle open

You can get the piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. Use a toothpick in the glow plug hole to find the piston at the top.

Now turn the crankshaft 360 degrees to top center again

Both valves should now be partially open the same amount when you pull the valve covers off to look at the rocker arms. If you wiggle the crank one valve will be closing while the other is opening

There is a built in aide to hold the cam in the correct position when setting it in place.

If the dot is straight down, there is a hole in the back side of the intake lobe that aligns with the intake guide hole. You can use a pushrod stuck in the hole to hold the cam still.

The small end of the pushrods go to the top when assembling the engine.

cavandish

some advice please

I have a model tech dragon lady arriving shortly and really would like to power it with a saito twin, the manufactures recommend up to 120 f/s so going on the weight of a 120 os, a 90 or 100 twin saito will not be over weight ?

am am concerned that an engine making 1.00 hp may be underpowering this bird (considering that an 82 makes 1.5 hp and weighs 10 oz less )???????? she is quoted as being 8.5 lbs, the wing squares are 872, I am not looking for more than good sport performance.

from my understanding the 90 is alternate firing & the 100 same stroke ????

does one sound much better ???? ( the big thing for me about suck- squeeze- bang- blow engines is the sound being so much more realistic than a screaming weed eater ! )

is it worth paying more for the 90 ??????? WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF THE 90 ?

THANKS IN ADVANCE

John
New zealand

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 100T has much more power than the 90TS.

The 100T has a firing sequence somewhat like a Harley. Its a bang-bang . . . . . bang-bang . . . . . Bang-bang sound

Your plane will not be over powered with the 100T.

The dragon Lady would probably handle the 182 if you could get it to balance

cavandish

SO MORE POWER AS IN TORQUE OR HP ?

I HAVE SEEN BOTH THESE DONKS QUOTED AS 1.00 HP ? IF THIS IS WRONG THE 100 IS A CERT !

1 WOULD LOVE TO USE THE 182 BUT AM CONCERNED ABOUT BREEDING A FLYING BRICK- ABOUT 1 LBS HEAVYER ? ( I AM A INTERMEDIATE PILOT-JUST )

WOULD APPRECIATE YOU INPUT.