claytucker

with the 30% heli nitro and a 14 6 apc prop it was -300 off high speed rpms around 11,000 rpms on the new saito 82 (3 gallons). I leaned the low speed till at rev up it cut out (too lean) then increased fuel counter clock wise 1/8 till it seemed perfect and held a very low and nice idle for a long time. It then reved up quick and clean. Still every fourth flight I get a dead stick. I have gone back and readjusted my high speed many times. I have also gone back and adjusted the low speed a bit richer (1/8) at a time and leaned it 1/8th. It idles so low down below 2000 and revs up so well that it seems perfect, so what could be causing the occasional dead sticks?
The only way it seems safe is to trim the RPM s way up to around 3000rpms (too fast to land) and then on landing to cut the RPMs back to around 2500. At around 2700 rpms it's moving. I changed plugs, fuel, fuel lines, keep adjusting.... what can be done to get this little engine to run reliable. I had no problems tuning my O.S. to the point of low idles and 150+ fligts without a dead stick. Please suggesstions. I love this engine, the power is controllable easy to hover just worried it s going to cut out in some 3d manuever at some point...

rexracer

Anyone know if the exhaust port on a .56 is the 10x1.00 thread??

skiman762

With out starting a war I think IMO that you must make sure the engine is hot meaning up to full operating temp
and fairly low on fuel
I like to fill my tank half full then start it up and run half of that off down to a 1/4 tank before doing any tuning
if you start it up and tune withing mins then fly you now have it hot and the whole tune is shot it takes some running time to get all that metal warm
also your valve lash changes as the engine warms up getting wider as it warms that the reason for the cold adjustment I like to det mine to the tight side of the range
also if you give a 10 count after each needle change you get better results as well
after you have it set have someone hold it straight up and see if it holds it's tune

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 50, 56, & 62 are all 10m X 1

rexracer

Thanks again w8ye!

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

the F90 is just about the same size overall, they may have made a few small changes, i believe they made the nose longer. the original F90 tended to be tailheavy. i had a os 120 FS and still had a borderline CG toward the rear w/3 HS 625mg's in the tail. like others i've heard of, i had to rig up a pull/pull on the rudder to move weight forward when i went to a 25oz (or so) ys 110FZ-S.
i've heard of the 180 being used (similar weight to the 120). only concerned i'd have is the size of the prop. the 16x6 is about as big as i 'd care for on it. just be careful to hold the nose up. and asphalt is unforgiving on a prop strike, nicks it every time, grass not as much. you're going to need a 18x6 or 17x8 (i expect).
CG should be close. i have read the threads on the F90, the famous "kyle" that did the videos with the F90 says to keep cg around 7 1/4" from the leading edge, for about the best overall handling.
jon

Capt Lou

w8ye or anyone who can help me:

I just bought velocity stacks to put on my Saitio 91S and 100. I noticed that there is a space between the velocity stack base and the carburetor so that air will by-pass the stack and enter the carb opening thru this space. The stacks did not come with any seals or o rings for this space. I'm planning to put an o ring in this space so that air only enters the carb thru the stack. Is this the correct thing to do? I believe the carb will operate more eficiently if this space is sealed. Thanks in advance for any replies.

I

RC Specialties

Capt Lou,

That is exactly the thing to do. You can get the o-ring at the auto parts store.

Jim

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They also have the O-rings at most hardware stores. Take your venturi with you so you can select the correct size

ATCDave

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you gents - I'll give it a try!

Best,

Dave

krop

My Feedback: (19)

On the "Funtana X100" Forum, there are several comments about flying that plane with the SAITO 180.
I have mounted a SAITO 125 in mine.
You will benefit from the use of a Graftech main landing gear which raises the plane one inch and is stronger
than the stock gear that comes with the plane. Also, several have replaced the tail wheel assembly with a
stronger one especially if Harrier landings are in your future. There is an excellent review of this plane in
R/C REPORT in the November issue.
Keep us posted on both forums.
krop

.:RClunatic:.

My Feedback: (21)

fellas, i found some nice holographic SAITO vinyl stickers for 95 cents, shipped free. there's different sizes and carbon fiber also. im a big sticker guy, so these are sweet...

http://fliton.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=51

nitrobeast

Hey guys
I have a saito 72 i need to run inverted. Is the vent nipple being on top gonna cause a problem?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If you're talking about the crankcase vent, no problem at all.

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone know why some Saito engines come in a white box and other engines of the same size come in a black and gold box?

Just curious.

TIA
RFan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

White box engines came out around 2001. The previous engines were in the Black-gold box for about 10 years

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

Okay, Thank you for the quick response. Now, if this is the case, then what year did the Saito FA-125 come out? I ask because I have an opportunity to buy one that is NIB in a black and gold box.

TIA again.

RFan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 125 has only been out a couple years.

nitrobeast

Thanks

nilsreinert123

hi ,i have a problem with my new saito 72 ,it stops at high throttle and knock of the prop and nut . What can be wrong? i have adjusted the needles ,but it doesnt seem to work.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OK Saito fans, I had a brainstorm yesterday that turned into projectitis, (no known cure) today. I put a CH Electronics ignition system on my Saito 2.20. All went well until leaning it through 8,000 rpm when the exhaust tone suddenly got loud and harsh, it instantly dropped to 6,700 and that was it, no more. I immediately richend it up but that was not the problem, the prop driver had slipped about 17 degrees of the 28 degrees BTDC to which I had set it up. In picture #1 the piston is at TDC but the TDC mark I put on the prop driver is CW several degrees. The right side mark of the two close together is the 28 degree advanced mark. Not good. I will call Terry at CH monday see how he keeps them from moving. In the meantime I have pulled the propdriver and put it on correctly using red LocTite. It sure did idle well and was smooth as silk until that happened, its a pretty smooth engine anyway. I had a Just Engines CF 20x6 on it. The smooth idle is likely the result of the SynchroSpark reducing timing to 6 degrees BTC at idle.

The bracket is a work in progress.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Your Saito 72 that suddenly quits is running too lean at that speed. You need more fuel into the engine

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Rfan- they are fine engines!

skiman762

Hobbsy look at part 152 on page17 of the manual
they use a set screw on the gas 220

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...nual_FINAL.pdf

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Ski, I'll see if I can do something similar, it will take a long set screw to through the colett and into a dimple in the crankshaft.