RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

w8ye, I remembered this being a conversation in some earlier posts. I would like to do a little experimenting with the double vent concept you mention. Do you know what tap and drill size it takes to drill the back plate (or where ever) to install the check valves you mention here? Also, any idea what volume of oil is normally being expelled from the crankcase breather nipple (I have a l80 but I haven't had a chance to run it yet) Thanks, Ron

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RPMcK

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Sorry, my last post doesn't look right. Guess I didn't push all the proper buttons. KCRAW!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I was looking at the back plate of my 180 and it only has one boss and that is used for the existing vent. Other engines like the 65, 80, 91, 100, 125, and 220 have two bosses in the back plate. One is used by the existing vent and the other is blank. On the 120, 150, & 180 there just doesn't appear to be a enough meat in the back plate to utilize this system.

Whatever size they are, it is metric. Probably 4 mm?

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

I don't have my engine handy right at the moment but seems like I remember seeing a boss somewhere on the crankcase that might be tapped for a breather nipple. But maybe I was looking at a picture of someone elses engine. I was thinking the backing plate wouldn't be too hard to remove and replace to install a second nipple. But I don't want to get into a major disassembly even if it could be installed somewhere else. At least not until I've had a chance to break it in. Thank for checking. Ron

mbrennan1

OK Saito Guys--- I have been running my Saito's (2-82's, 91s, 125, and a 180) on Wild Cat 2-4 15%. Some one told me I should use 30% Heli mixed 50/50 with 15%. Any one try this? What seems to be the best fuel to use. There are so many out there.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Go all the way with 30 heli if you can afford it. If you keep the mixture rich it will not hurt the engines

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I've got a very nice .72. I know what you mean about the sound, but I like my .46NT as far as 2 strokes go. I have 6 new ones here now, but they belong to the University. I took a picture of them lined up since there are 6 of them.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

I was looking at my 180 last night while installing the Turbo Header and checked the backplate , I have two boss's on mine and got me thinking about doing this mod. The engine is about a year old now.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Sounds good. Go for it.

Capt Lou

mbrennan:

I have used 15% Cool Power 4 stroke fuel and 30% Cool Power Heli in my Saito 91S and 100. I notice improved performance with the 30% over the 15% plus greater lubrication from the 30%. Saito engines love the extra nitro. However, the 30% heli is an expensive fuel so you need to determine if the extra cost is worth what you want in flight. I have not tried a 50/50 mix.

Yaniel

dont get me wrong now, i still use the evo 46nt in a pulse and LOVE the engine, its extremely reliable and flies the plane with authority but it just doesnt sound right in a cub!

mbrennan1

Thanks for the help. Yesterday I bought a used Funtana 90(no servos or motor), a Seagull Yak 54 RTF with a Saito FA 125, and a Dave Patrick Ultimate RTF with a Saito 180. All are less than a year old. The Yak was only flown once and the other two flown for one season. I originally was only looking at the Yak, but he offered all three at such a great price, I could not stop myself from buying them. The only bad thing is that I received a manual for the Saito 180 and no manuals for the planes or the 125. Any suggestions where I can acquire them? I was able to download a manual for the Funtana. Also, What size motor would you recommend for the Funtana? I was thinking of either a 100 or a 125.
I love these post's. They help me a lot.

mbrennan1

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here's the manual for your 125
http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...der_Manual.pdf

That Funtanna 90 is going to at least need a 125

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Friend had a F90 with the 125 think he was using the 16 inch prop, had to use 30% in it ,made a big difference. Used to hover at full throttle on 15% but it kinda sounded like a bottle rocket on 30% Also your low speed needle is going to be underneath the plane making idle a bit tricky to tune in.

Get the engine dialed in good, Im thinking he was heating up a little bit in that cowling.

swixtt

Hey guys, i have a small problem here.

Saito 150 and i have managed to get the prop stuck on. i can't not budge it at all. i am ashamed that i didn't ream out the hole quite big enough!??
ummm... any suggestions please??

thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have been able to rock the prop back and forth by the tips and slowly work it off.

I have also used a gear puller to get one off.

swixtt

ahhh... the old gear puller... i will ask around to see if anyone has something like that???

rexracer

I have the same problem with my 1.80 all the time. The prop holes are reamed for 10 mm as they should be, it just seems to be a little tighter fit than my smaller engines. I actually use a puller and a couple of large zip ties to get the props off. one of these days I'll make an aluminum 2 pronged "hook" to attach to the puller for props.

swixtt

how do these things work? you attach the zips to the puller and remove... that will then pull the prop off?

i'm afraid there are threads already into the prop itself which would make it almost impossible to pull off... rather it might have to be turned off??

i need something that will grab the prop shaft so i can just get it started off.

rexracer

I think the 1.50 is the same as the 1.80. The threads are 8mm but the shaft behind the threads is 10mm. I just loop the zip ties around the base of the prop as close to the hub as I can get, and around the arms on my puller, then start cranking. The ties are just a way to attach the puller to the prop without damaging anything.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Obtain a small metal C clamp and spend some time at a grinding wheel, sharpening both grasping edges into a sharp wedge. Apply, tighten - CRACK! - and you are done. No reason to booger up the engine if careful. Prop is sacrificed.

Naturally, this is a last resort.

Hmm, I just had a thought. I'll bet metal shrinks more than wood or glass composite when placed in the freezer. That might give you enough clearance to remove the prop without sacrificing it.


Ed Cregger

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Or you can stick a small dowel in the glow plug hole to hold the piston/crank still on the up stroke while trying to turn the prop.

BAlbertsman

I have just recently rebuilt the top end of a Saito 100. New cylinder, piston, ring, valves, the reason for doing so was the bearings fell apart and grooved out the cylinder head. But my question is after reassembling it I have put it back on the test stand. It will draw fuel up to the carb on one stroke and then on the next stroke it will push the fuel back out of the carb and into the tank. I look forward to any thoughts, maybe timing is off?? I have the high speed needle valve opened up 5 turns for a break in run.

thanks for any help guys.
Bernie

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Does the engine have compression every other time around

BAlbertsman

It has some compression not a whole lot though.