iflynething

I'm flying also at 1/4 throttle solafein, and I have a Saito 100. I'm hovering at just above 1/4 throttle. AMAZING!!

Luckily, I got a second Funtana after my wing folded and I have a whole 'nother ARF that Hangar 9 sent me. Anyways, I got another cowl, that this time, I won't mess up the cowl. My cowl on my other Funtana doesn't really look that intriguing either...

~Michael~

solafein

I think that balancing would be impossible without adding weight to the nose if one were to use a FA 82 or less. The 91 and 100 are just about perfect, in every aspect, except folding parts due to too much force and the degree of mount and firewall modifications needed. Exact directions are posted on other threads in the ARF and 3D sections.

My idea of a hover is a slow climb. I got this engine for my 40 sized trainer on a lark, was hovering, lost control and needed two more feet to make the loop out. Luckilly it only pancaked and did not touch the motor. I promptly went and bought a 3D plane to 3D in, and I had this recently broke in, slightly used FA 91 attached to a disconnected firewall in my car to use. Imagine that. Now I'll just have to figure out how to slip #3 by my wife for the Pattern Plane. I've turned into a Saito junkie.

gwulle

Hi Fellows;
I just purchased my 1st Saito, a 220. I am going to put it in the Hanger 9 Extra 260. Does anyone have and experience with the Saito flexible exausts? I was wondering if the 14mm for the Saito 120,150,180 singles and 270,300 twins would also fit the 220. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gaines

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Gaines:

That makes you number 143, gwulle, in the listing.

Check the outside diameter of the exhaust gland nut thread. If it's 14 mm the other accessories will work.

My impression is that Saito has gone to a 16 mm thread as they did for the intake on the 150 and 180 engines. That means nothing will fit.

Hobbsy has one, if he'll check the thread size he can comment with authority on this.

Bill.

Tom Jones

My Feedback: (4)

#71 here. Bill, or anyone... how do you measure .0005 for valve clearance without a dial indicator? What is comparable, cellophane off a cig pack, or something else? Or is there a do by feel technique? Thanks in advance, Tom.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

With the locking nut loose turn the adjuster screw carefully to zero lash. Holding the screw to keep it from turning, tighten the locknut. The distortion of the threads by the load of the lock nut will give you the minimum clearance.

Simple and easy.

Bill.

gwulle

Bill;
Thanks so much for the response!! That's about right,that nothing will fit,I am famous for that(LOL). I will check the diamater and see and maybe someone else will chime in here too. Again thanks.

Gaines

gwulle

Bill;
We do not generally run mufflers,on 4 strokes,at our field. Our local Saito guru says they are much easier to tune without the back pressure. Let me clarify the no muffler,we open them up to the diamater of the exaust. I am just learning the 4 strokes after 30 years running 2 strokes.

Gaines

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Gaines:

If you unscrew the muffler and leave it off then you are running with no muffler. If you leave the muffler body on and open the outlet to the size of the inlet you still, by having the expansion chamber, have a muffler of sorts.

Mufflers work by smoothing the flow of the gases, the expansion chamber is one way to do it. By having the outlet pipe smaller than the inlet this also contributes to quieting the noise.

The flex pipes have the accordion folds in their length, these act as flow restrictors and also quiet the sound.

Finally, while Saito does supply what seem to be straight pipes, both with and without a pressure nipple, the outlet ends are smaller than the main body of the pipe. Quieting by restriction.

Even a true straight pipe acts a an expansion chamber and does a little bit of noise damping. If you have a long enough pipe it will do very well as a muffler all by itself. But it would be a lot longer than you'd want to have sticking out behind your plane.

Just some points to ponder.

Bill.

Tom Jones

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks, Bill. That is quick and easy. Would've had to buy 30-50 dollar guage sets to find a .0005. Thanks for the help. Tom

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bill, I get 15mm where there are no threads but very little of the pipe is not bent

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

Thanks for checking. The threads are probably rolled, which makes the peak larger diameter than the base metal. Most likely it is 16 mm.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here's the measurement at the unthreaded part.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

I stand by 16 mm.

I see a genuine Saito fuel filter in line there. How do you like it so far? I love them, they're just too expensive to use on everything.

Bill.

andboy

My Feedback: (4)

Hi there.

I have just bought my first Saito, the 100. I have read the manual and so far have put 4 tanks (14oz) tanks through it. That adds up to about 25min run time so far. Per the book I started at 5 turns out, and am now at 3.5. The manual says that 40 min is when it can be considered broken in, is it time I started to up the rpm's a bit and lean it out more?

When the tank has finished I touch the block, head and exhaust and it hasn't even really got anywhere near hot yet.

I also have a big mess from unburnt fuel and oil all over the garage floor!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

lehma:

You are gross. Huh? Why would I say that right off the bat? Teasing you, your Club Saito number is 144, and 144 is one gross.

Yes, it is time to start leaning the engine. You can lean it to peak and then richen it until you drop 800- 1000 rpm for the next tank, then start working on the low speed.

Bill.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I'd start working on getting the needles set. Don't let it get hot.

When you get the needles set, put it in the air with the HS a little extra rich. Don't run it wide open very long.

Enjoy,

Jim

andboy

My Feedback: (4)

My wife says I am gross sometimes too...

Another quick question, when people say the engine peaks at, say, 9800rpm. Does this mean that any leaner and the rpm's drop? 9800 is the most they can get out of the engine, then they richen it a bit to avoid damage.

This is my second four stroke. I do have a 91 Magnum and I just tached that to 9800rpm, it can go higher but I didn't want to damage it (manual says 10k to 12k rpm)

So how do I go about tuning the Saito. 2 strokes aren't a problem. I had a pig of a first engine and it taught me everything I ever needed to know about 2 strokes....!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Peak is the peak rpm. Any leaner and it slows down.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

lehma:

The biggest difference in tuning between two and four stroke engines is the speed of the engine's response. The two stroke is immediate, the four stroke will take seven to ten seconds to react to a needle change. You have to go slowly, turn it just a hair, and wait. When you hear a change then and only then go further. And wait some more.

Bill.

andboy

My Feedback: (4)

Great, thanks!

Now, almost Saito related... I have just balanced my prop (first wooden one) by sanding the back of the heavy blade.

What's the best stuff to use to reseal it? And failing that, is household varnish (thinned) a suitable alternative?

I am REALLY looking forward to my plane arriving for this beast. It should have already come but instead of three days it went on backorder...

Thanks again!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Polyurethane varnish rubbed on thin

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Quote:

...rubbed on thin.

And then recheck the balance - the varnish has weight too, remember.

Bill.

andboy

My Feedback: (4)

The heavy side is now a bit lighter to take into account the weight of the sealant.

Back into the garage!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Lehma:

If you don't have the polyurethane varnish, I've heard of dripping CA on the blade and rubbing it in the same way. Just be ssure to use a bit of plastic, and not your bare fingers.

Bill.