linkadrip

Great thanks appriciate it. Nice looking corsair there. [sm=thumbup.gif]

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Hmmmm, looks repairable maybe with a new nose section. I wouldn't toss it yet.

mbrennan1

I saved it. Maybe some rainy day I will start rebuilding it.

Wingspam

I have a Saito 180 and I keep having problems with the muffler coming loose at the muffler. I have tried blue lock tight and red. The red held longer but still came loose. I have rechecked the prop for balance and it is good.
Being tired of the stock muffler, where can I get a good after market muffler?
Do they make a 1 piece muffler for the 180?

Thanks in advance

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Is there a way to upload a PDF file onto the forum? I have something useful for Club Saito if there is a way.

clutchbob

I have just recently aquired my first 4 stroke - a Saito 72. I'm very pleased with this engine. It idles very slowly and transitions to WOT without a hiccup, and it's just barely broken in.
Have you tried tightening while the engine is hot?

rexracer

Kmot, can't you just click on the link at the bottom of the message window like you do to upload pics?

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

No, that dialog box does not support PDF.

s10junky83

I'm having a horrible time setting my ls needle on a saito 100. My HS needle is peeked at 9000 on 30% coolpower and my LS has a very small "sweet spot" that is within 1/4 of a turn. Problem is if I lean it, it idles way to high then dies. If I richen it, it will run then die within a minute. It always starts immeadiatly after dying. Could the valves be too loose? If I put them on the feeler gauge the motor vibrates horribly. I need to add that this motor ran and idled great when it was sloppy rich but only peaked at 8100 rpm and that won't hover my 7 LBS plane. Please tell me what to do!!!!!!!!!!!!

swixtt

hey guys,

can someone post how they start their Saito 150's or 180's... i seem to always kick my prop nut(a dubro one). it is on a test stand... i prime with just one turn of the prop(manually) then either stick-it or use the starter. when i do prime it i believe it just draws too much fuel in the cylinder there by causing the kick-back when i go to start it.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I stick the electric starter to the engine and it starts.

Are you trying to start your engine by hand?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

This page has a good explanation of setting your valves correctly: http://www.saito-engines.info/maintenance.html. Remember, the feeler gauge is a 'feeler'. You should be feeling the gauge fitting slightly when the valves are just right.

Yes, the low speed needle valve is sensitive when you are near the right place. 1/4 turns are huge adjustments. Look for 1/8 adjustments, or even less. When I get close to where it should be, I don't shove the throttle to wide open at first. I ease it up and listen. If the engine is taking the throttle well, I then start advancing it faster until I know it isn't too lean. BTW, I set the LS with the HS set to peak RPMs. When finished with the LS, I then repeak the HS and back off a few hundred RPMs. I back off more if the engine is under a gallon of fuel thru it. Then, most importantly, I take the model up for a trip around the pattern as I listen closely to the engine. Any sign of sagging, surging, or roughness means I land and richen the HS a couple of clicks, and do another pattern until it is running smoothly.

swixtt

both ways.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It takes a strong starter to start a 150 or 180. With a regular starter the engine will just oscillate between top dead center from one direction to the other without ever going past top dead center.

The people who hand start generally bounce them against top dead center from the reverse direction whereby the engine more or less back fires and starts running in the forward direction.

1rcaddict

The Sullivan Dynatron works perfect on my 180 with no priming at all.

swixtt

what does that starter draw? what type of bat. do you guys use for a larger starter? i believe that is probably part of the issue, possibly??

1rcaddict

I'm not sure what the draw is but the 7000mah Hobbico gel cell from Tower Hobbies works great. I think there only about $20.00.

rexracer

I have a hobbico 1.80 starter that didn't like to spin my 1.80, so now I'm running it at 24vDC and it spins it easily. I was worried about burning it out, but one guy in our club has been doing this for 5 years on his hobbico starter without a problem.

Walther

My Feedback: (1)

Just remember a DC motor draws more amps on 12v then on 24v 2X so if it draws 10 on 12v it draws 5 on 24v.

clutchbob

Are you sure about this? The motor windings present themselves as a resistance (load), this doesnt change when applied voltages are changed. If the voltage is doubled across the same load, current is going to double as well. Voltage = Current (in amps) X Resistance (in ohms).

swixtt

thanks for the info. i do have a hi-torque starter but it is OLD. so i have no idea what it's rated at. but i won't spin the 1.50 over very easily and does what w8 said... bouncing but not turning it over.

if you guys are using a Dubro Prop nut do you have the washer in there as well? or removed?

clutchbob

Try a battery that can supply more instantaneous current like a car battery.

swixtt

yeah,i've got a rather large one from a UPS and i've tried one that is used to jump starting cars. it's a handy unit that is VERY portable. got it from Canadian Tire!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This is true, DC motors don't develope any Counter EMF like AC motors, so they just take whatever you throw at em. They look like a dead short to the battery.

TomCrump

Thanks !!!! I really appreciate it.

Now, I'm off to measure my cowl.