sodbuster 1

.91 versus 100 which one should I get?

Have a Goldberg Decathlon on it's way and trying to decide.
Will the 100 have that much power over the .91?


Have an older Enya.91-4c I'm not using. Do the Saito's make any more power than them? Weigh much differently?

Really hoping some one can chime in here. Don't know nuttin' 'bout no 4 strokes

Gas and 2 strokes have always been my thing

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The old Enya when run on 5% nitro will make nearly the power of the Saito .91. My choice would of course be the 1.00 if you're buying a new engine. The Saito .91 has been discontinued as far as I know.

sodbuster 1

Hey Hobbsy!
Thanks for the info. Guess you've had an Enya in the past.
Do you think I should just mount that in the plane?
Does the Saito 100 make much more power than the .91 that I should spend the money?

Am starting to think that's what I should do and if I find I'm not happy with the Enya get the 115 when it's finally available.

Whaddya think?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sod, is your Enya .90 the big one that was made out of the 1.20 or the later one that was made out the .80. The Saito 1.00 is a couple of hundred rpm stronger thatn the Saito .91. If spending money for new you might a s well get the 1.15 because if you get the 1.00 you'll get the 1.15 later anyway, I know how the thing works. W8YE has my Saito .91 for that very reason, the 1.00 came out right after I got the GK .91, he traded a plane to me for the .91 and I bought the 1.00 which now resides on a Senior TeleMaster.

RC Specialties

Hey Hobbsy,

I noticed that the 1.15 uses the same exhaust system as the 1.25. I am anxious to see some performance numbers.

Jim

sodbuster 1

Hobbsy,
I couldn't tell ya which version mine is for sure, but I would bet the bigger one. Only reason is because it's at LEAST 12-14 years old ! lol
Guess what I really should do is weigh the darn thing!
I was told a 120 size engine ends up being too heavy for the plane and you then need to start adding tail weight.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Jim, I am going to call Bobby and give him the go in a minute, you know I'll need a TurboHeader for it.[8D]

RC Specialties

Hobbsy,

I wasn't pushing a sale! I am curious as to the performance numbers on the engine. Smaller displacement vs. larger muffler, etc.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Interesting thing here Jim

Saito 1.00 Bore=1.14, Stroke=1.02 Benckmark prop==14x8
Saito 1.15 Bore=1.25, Stroke=.94 Benckmark prop==15x8@8,800
Saito 1.25 Bore=1.24 Stroke=1.02 Benckmark prop==16x6@9,000

Looks like they set the 1.15 up for a big load for its size.

RC Specialties

Hobbsy,

I agree. It may turn out to be a powerhouse for the size and weight.

Jim

sodbuster 1

think I've just made up my mind!

Only problem is, it's not due in till end of June now according to Horizon

clutchbob

Does it require more effort to prime the engine with the Cline regulator? I read somewhere that it took 5 to 6 seconds with an electric starter on someone's setup. It seems to me that 5 to 6 seconds with no fuel-oil mixture will cause some premature wear.
Cline suggests to choke the carb, but new Saitos have no choke. My cowl will make it difficult to choke the carb with a finger or thumb.
I'm assuming the check-valve is going to perform the same as plugging the muffler tap to increase tank pressure and force fuel towards the carb, but I don't know how this will work with the regulator in the mix.

I just did a search, and found that the issue is that the tank has to build pressure first to force the fuel to move. Apparently, if you fill the tank, then plug the overflow and give it a little more fuel, that this will pre pressurize the tank.
Oh, and I humbly request membership to Club Saito (and I pronounced it correctly).

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Using an air filter helps a bit with the prime.

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

well I got a chance to run the 220 on a stand today.
Primed it, set the carb to 1/3, and one pop and it flashed right up to 3200 rpm.
I did what the book said for the first ten minites and up to the 40 minite mark.
I was able to get 1.5 hours and even with this low time on it and no ajustments to the low end i can get it to 2200rpm.
2300 and it sounds like it would idle all day.
I cant believe how smooth this engine is and how little effort it is to start. the fuel I used is 15% nitro and 20 % syn oil.
It's going to be ohh so sweet on the 30%.
The needle is about 2 truns and the idle is still at the stock settings.
this is my 1st 4 stroke and the first time I have ever broke in an engine on less nitro then the engine is going to be run on.
also this is the first time I have seen the book say to use a lower nitro to run the engine in. I guess it has something to do with something in the saito line.

swixtt

you using a starter to get her going? sounds like a saito to me... smooth running!!

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

are you kidding
Just a backward bounce off the cumpression stroke.

swixtt

nope, but thanks for clearing that up for me!

mike early

My 125a has less than 2 gallons through it. When can I consider it broken in? The RPM's will increase until it's fully broken in?

Speedster8-98

Help/Question?!
After being away from modeling for quite a time I have gotten back into it and bought a Saito 72. I would like someone to tell me if I can change the needle valve assembly around and place the linkage for the servo hookup on the opposite side from where it is located now (as it is from the box)
Speedster8-98
[email protected]

Capt Lou

Speedster:

Yes, you can turn the carb around to have the needle valve on the opposite side. I have done this with every Saito engine (4) I have purchased and they run fine. I don't understand who would want the needle adjustment under a hot muffler system and when I asked why Saito does this, I have been told that they do this for packing/shipping convenience of the new engine. When you reverse the carb, just be careful to re-seat the seals carefully. Also, you need to check the throttle linkage/servo for the proper alignment and throw.

Ken6PPC

There is no shame in using a starter. Saitos usually start easily with a backwards flip, but an electric starter makes it even easier.

What is wrong with "easier"?

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

Most of the time all the starter does is prime the engine to start it.
Nothing beats a good prime and it nice when you can just bump it start.
as for the guy asking about the break in time.... 90 size heli 2 strokes can take 5 to 8 gallons before they settle in and really start to make the power.
until you stop needling the bottom end is pretty much the time its run in.

Ken6PPC

OK, but what is wrong with "easier"?

swixtt

Well i just got a different starter for my saito 150. i had a heck of time trying to get it running. it has SO MUCH compression that my old starter wouldn't even turn it over. bump starting was what i tried with prime but it wouldn't go. i found once i got a starter to pull a nice line of fuel, it started OK.
i'm not sure if this older Saito 150 has more compression, almost to the point of 'is something wrong with it'. ... but when it's warm it will start a little easier. anyway, the dynatron is the answer for me on this one.

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

from what the saito experts at the club tell me they like to be very wet prime before you can hand start them.