vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

hello
if anyone has a 180 and a 220 could they measure the carb bore on each?
I was just wondering if they are the same size.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes, they are the same, the 220 uses the carb for the 180

balsaeater

Thanks for the info always good to confirm what I suspected

Also on this link about suitable fuels for Saito

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_65...tm.htm#7678734

post number 41 = vince.b
it appears lowwer oil content makes timing move forward and predetonatonation effects and then heat accumulation making engine sag

Conclusion it might be more difficult to use low oil content than I thought but time will tell

I am saving up for winter purchase Saito 220 glow for a kit build Rodel CAP( which is at a good price in the LHS ) for a winter build

Balsaeater

Vince J

My Feedback: (1)

W8yte

As I said I went right to the engine , a Saito FA .45 Mark II and adjusted the valves,(I hope) This engine was oil seized and I had to loosen it up first. Now it turns rather easily but with some compression but I hear the tappets clicking along as I turn the prop. This is normal for a dry engine....Yesss????

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes it is normal to here the valve mechanism click when you turn the engine over by hand

bawls

I tried searching. I am sure it's on here 50 times, but: Which way does the connecting rod go? Dot to the Front?

bawls

I have my Saito 125 apart. Needs new rods and intake manifold. I have some Ceramic Bearings for it but have never installed them because it does not yet need them, and I am waiting for the bearing puller set to go on sale at the local Harbor Freight.

Except for corrosion resistance, does the Ceramic have any other advantages?

Vince J

My Feedback: (1)

W8tye

Thank you so much for all your help. I'm building up an information bank on the Saito 45 thanks to you a some of the other people on this site.

BTW what's a good range of RPM for the SAito 45 using an 11 x 5, 6, or 7 prop? I found an 11x 5 in my " I don't know what in that props pile."

I'm putting the Saito in a Skat Cat because the Cat is such a sweet flying airplane and I can put it in my car without taking it apart. It's for a quickie when I'm trying to steal some time at the field.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is my .45MKII turning a Graupner 12x5 on 10% WildCat fuel, as you can see it's no slouch.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

I used to used Boca ceramic bearings in my off road buggy and they spin ALOT freer and dissipates heat much better. I would imagine they should free up a few more RPM's for you. A buddy just rebuilt his after a crash and used these type of bearings, he hasn't run it yet to see the difference though.

BTW, I thought harbor freight was always on sale...


Shane

bawls

Let us know how it works out for your buddy.

I guess I might as well buy the bearing puller..
Harbor Freight sells junk. And junk is better when it's almost free.

Vince J

My Feedback: (1)

Hobbsy,

Thanks, It gives me someplace to start.

rexracer

A 12x4 or 11x6 will also work well on that .45

To Balsa with the 1.80 Do yourself a favor, and adjust the LS needle. The engine will be much happier. I needed to turn mine in 3+ turns. I would also check the valve clearance. It only takes 2 minutes, and if they're too loose or tight it's not good for the engine. I just adjusted mine again, and they were pretty loose after 1 gallon of fuel. I'm now getting 9000 rpm on a MA Classic 18x6 with 15% nitro. Turboheader and the 90 seem to have gotten me about 200 rpm on top.

balsaeater

Thanks for the info
I was hoping only to have to check the tappets every 20 gallons or so preferably less than that
Realy I am more your buy fly and throw fuel at the problem type of flyer and hate even the irration of remembering to put after run oil in the engine or even changing a glow plug having over many years rebuilt many engines I really prefer the flying

My instinct is the clicking on hand turning the engine is marginaly excessive but if you experienced loose tappets after one gallon then my instinct might be correct and its worth taking the covers off and just checking the gaps.
Hopefully the gap for me will be correct but its no big deal to adjust the gap for me if it does turn out to be too loose

As for adjusting the LS I will get one of the old hands at the club to do that after I got 5 USA gallons through the engine as my track record for tuning any glow motor is marginal at best and prone to making things worse so normaly I just run everything on high nitro fairly rich and leave it at that .

I don't think I need 9000RPM on my ~4kg (~10lb) 22% plane probably ~8000 RPM would be eneogh for the few seconds of punch out on the upline
My main interest will be the tractor pulling affects at 1/4 to 1/2 gas where the engine will do 98% of the work low end tourque on the biggest diameter lowest pitch props that will fit the engine
I fly low down mostly slow in the face acro rarely exceeding 200 feet away from me and sports 3d with low level hover so flame out is not an option
If that means running the LS rich and using 30% nitro then that is what I will probably opt to do
I normally opt to get the biggest possible engine and then run it on low RPM to get best tractor pulling power and to keep noise levels down as low as possible as a few sites where I fly from are city municapal parks where clubs need to be HUSH mode glow fly and fly low down

My instinct is only a top end motor like a Saito could survive my lack of abilities to tune motors so thus far I can be very happy that all gremlins have been due to my mistakes which the engine can shrug off in its stride


balsaeater

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

You don't need to wait to burn 5 gallons of fuel before setting the LS needle, it's best to set after 20 minutes of running during the initial break in run. You'll waste about 1/3rd of the fuel running the way you're planning.

Vince J

My Feedback: (1)

Rexracer,

Thanks, since I'm forced at present to use the 11x5, Should I keep it in the 9500 and under range of the RPM? I guess I should be asking , " what is the best range for this prop using 15% nitro 18/2% oil?"

bawls

Which way does the connecting rod/piston assembly go? Dot on the conrod to the Front of the engine?

lucky9910

My Feedback: (27)

Does it matter where the nipple is located on the muffler? I have a saito 125 and i need to move the nipple to accomandate a second nipple for smoke system.

Thanks Lucky

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You cannot depend on the Dot.

In the big end hole of the connecting rod, one side has a chamfer or taper on the edge of the hole. This chamfer goes towards the crankshaft counter weight

The side of the connecting rod that was against the back plate usually has some odd ball non concentric swirl marks on it.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The nipple on the muffler does not have to be in a certain position.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Vince,

Just keep it under 11,000 and you will be OK.

However this engine makes its power in the range you mentioned..

lucky9910

My Feedback: (27)

Thank you

Vince J

My Feedback: (1)

W8yte

Thanks

bawls

Indeed, Thanks W8yte!

Vince J

My Feedback: (1)

I got the Saito .45 running . I don't know how much time is on the engine but it seemed to go well after it finally started. In putting it into the Skat Cat I'd like to move it closer to the firewall for better balance. The choke interferes with moving the engine back.. Is the choke dispensable? If so, how does one start the engine without it? It'll be impossible to close the venturi with a finger but how about blocking the exhaust for one or two turns of the engine? If there is another method I'd like to hear it and I'll give it a try.

Thanks