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Old 07-30-2008, 06:52 PM
  #11626  
conchohoncho
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That's the setup that I have. 3 Amp Nica battery etc. I have the glow on a switch and turn it off above half trottle and never run below half trottle untill time to land when I turn the driver on again. Still loseing power at way over half trottle.
Richard
Old 07-30-2008, 07:03 PM
  #11627  
retransit
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Thanks Jim.
Although they are out of stock on a lot of items, I placed an order for the tubing that you use.
Bob
Old 07-30-2008, 07:10 PM
  #11628  
RC Specialties
 
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Bob,

If they don't have it let me know. I have some extra.

Jim
Old 07-30-2008, 07:14 PM
  #11629  
GaGeeBees
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ORIGINAL: conchohoncho

That's the setup that I have. 3 Amp Nica battery etc. I have the glow on a switch and turn it off above half trottle and never run below half trottle untill time to land when I turn the driver on again. Still loseing power at way over half trottle.
Richard
Did you change the wiring on your battery as the instructions indicate? You could be losing amperage somewhere. I'll bet you a Coke that you always lose the same cylinder and that it's the lower left one (as you face the front of the engine).
Old 07-30-2008, 08:13 PM
  #11630  
retransit
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Luckily they had the cream colored and some other large diameter pieces as well.

Bob
Old 07-30-2008, 11:03 PM
  #11631  
vince.b
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ed
that makes sense.
i have a 220 glow in my sundowner and love it.
I was looking at the kmp beaver on floats and I think the fg36 would be perfect for it, even though the valve covers would poke out of the cowl.
the valve covers poke out of the cowl on the sundowner... looks cool
Old 07-31-2008, 01:28 AM
  #11632  
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ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger


ORIGINAL: vince.b

hello
does anyone know if the saito fg36 has needle bearings on the con rod ?

-


Nope, just bushings. That's why the oil is mixed at 20:1 (gas/oil) instead of 50:1 like engines that are equipped with needle bearings. Still, even with that much more extra oil, the exhaust is acceptable and the price of fuel is still much lower than glow fuel. Yes, I own one and I'm glad that I do.


Ed Cregger

20:1 is not good news when there is a lot of engines to chose from in the same size that will do 50:1

In my neck of the woods higher tax Europe the price differental from the 220 glow compared to the more expensive 220 gasser is close on $300

The 220 glow will probably function well on 10% oil synthetic Klotts or EDL and zero nitro and that fuel isn't so expensive ~$15 a USA gal(LHS price and with eneogh glow planes I can bulk buy and knock it down to ~$10 a USA gal)
Gasoline (petrol benzine )with 5% oil isn't a whole lot cheaper example neat gasoline (petrol benzine )~$ 7 a USA gal with such a high oil ratio add costs up to ~$10 a USA gal and I would suffer often more than ~15% power loss

As a 220 glow or gasser plane would be flown intermitenly with my other planes a 180 Saito glow and a 26cc glow MVVS and my pylon electrics and 15cc VRDF its gonna take a heck of long time to get my $300 back on those kinds of fuel differentals
even with the higher tax fuel here

I suspect if I was to go the Gasser route the Saito is less likly to be on my list unless some other feature came out on top(which I don't see in this time )

If Saito changes the oil to 2% with needle bearing that would make a Saito 220 gasser very interesting for bigger slower planes like 3d fun fly stuff

However the Glow 220 is ultra high on the wish list for high speed performance plane like a semi scale pylon where sheeer HP counts to get max speeds

balsaeater
Old 07-31-2008, 09:05 AM
  #11633  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

There are different set-ups with the on-board glow

But most are set up in some way so that the power is only going to the plug at low speeds.

The most sophisticated sense the plugs temperature and apply current is the plug gets cool.

The least complicated homebuilt ones have the throttle rod trip a switch to turn on battery power to the glow plug.
w8ye,
Thanks for the info. Could you point me to some of the manufacturers?
Have seen mcDaniels systems. Anything else out there?
Old 07-31-2008, 09:47 AM
  #11634  
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You can modify this set up with the throttle servo turning the switch off-on
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...low_system.htm

Here's another brand
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=EXRA550

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/electr.html

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPNU4&P=7
Old 07-31-2008, 10:04 AM
  #11635  
retransit
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You can't beat simple and cheap as above, but Nelson Hobby Specialties offers an "Intelligent Glow Driver" if that's the way you decide to go. A bit pricey.
http://www.nelsonhobby.com/electr.html

Also, Sullivan offers an on-board glow driver that is contolled electronically. Be forewarned that with the Sullivan product, if you choose to power it with a 1.2 volt battery you need to replace the supplied glow plug wire with heavier AWG wires. The stock wires simply will not handle the 1.2 volt battery voltage drop and need to be around 18 AWG to supply the power. No problem with higher voltage battery packs.

Bob
Old 07-31-2008, 11:19 AM
  #11636  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: balsaeater

ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger


ORIGINAL: vince.b

hello
does anyone know if the saito fg36 has needle bearings on the con rod ?

-


Nope, just bushings. That's why the oil is mixed at 20:1 (gas/oil) instead of 50:1 like engines that are equipped with needle bearings. Still, even with that much more extra oil, the exhaust is acceptable and the price of fuel is still much lower than glow fuel. Yes, I own one and I'm glad that I do.


Ed Cregger

20:1 is not good news when there is a lot of engines to chose from in the same size that will do 50:1

In my neck of the woods higher tax Europe the price differental from the 220 glow compared to the more expensive 220 gasser is close on $300

The 220 glow will probably function well on 10% oil synthetic Klotts or EDL and zero nitro and that fuel isn't so expensive ~$15 a USA gal(LHS price and with eneogh glow planes I can bulk buy and knock it down to ~$10 a USA gal)
Gasoline (petrol benzine )with 5% oil isn't a whole lot cheaper example neat gasoline (petrol benzine )~$ 7 a USA gal with such a high oil ratio add costs up to ~$10 a USA gal and I would suffer often more than ~15% power loss

As a 220 glow or gasser plane would be flown intermitenly with my other planes a 180 Saito glow and a 26cc glow MVVS and my pylon electrics and 15cc VRDF its gonna take a heck of long time to get my $300 back on those kinds of fuel differentals
even with the higher tax fuel here

I suspect if I was to go the Gasser route the Saito is less likly to be on my list unless some other feature came out on top(which I don't see in this time )

If Saito changes the oil to 2% with needle bearing that would make a Saito 220 gasser very interesting for bigger slower planes like 3d fun fly stuff

However the Glow 220 is ultra high on the wish list for high speed performance plane like a semi scale pylon where sheeer HP counts to get max speeds

balsaeater

-


All good points, balsaeater. I've never been off the North American continent, so all of my thoughts/prejudices are Amerocentric - if that is a word.

I cannot justify the FG-36 in any way other than novelty. I could have bought nearly two DL-50 two-stroke gassers for the price of my FG-36. That did cross my mind before I bought it, but the novelty aspect of owning the engine helped me finally choose to buy it. Besides, I already have one DL-50 and several other engines near that displacement, so I was already covered.

Sometimes it is nice just to be a little frivolous in a hobby.


Ed Cregger

Old 07-31-2008, 04:38 PM
  #11637  
balsaeater
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When my work supplys lots of overtime and bonuses then I am a lot more frivilos and tend to buy the Saitos
Things are slow so got to shop carefully and Saito glow fuels are great value still
But just presently the gasser 220 FG 36 is requiring more information before committing to the extra premium price
There is a club member with one on order so I shall watch the developments closely

Balsaeater
Old 07-31-2008, 09:22 PM
  #11638  
doom
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OK one for the experts. I have a saito 45,runs great,Starts easy. Built a royal spirit of st.louis,Took about a year to build it. The 45 looks good on there with the 2" cylinders. First flight the other day.Oh no not enough power.Slight crash not to bad. Removed engine put on test stand and tuned it in. Around 9200 on tach. Ready to fly agin. Almost enough power.Didnt go down and barely made it around to land.Plane is around 6 or 7 lbs. What size prop 12x6? or is the 45 just not enough.Would a 56 be better and be the same out side size compared to the 45.Like to keep the scale look.I have a 65 but its huge compared to the 45. OK wrong prop,wrong engine size,What advice would you guys give.
Old 07-31-2008, 10:24 PM
  #11639  
retransit
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David, what is the wing span of your model? I see some references to a Royal kit of the Spirit of St. Louis and it has an 80 inch span. Is yours that big?

Bob
Old 08-01-2008, 12:16 PM
  #11640  
s_moorman
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hey guys, I need some help/advice. I need to build a "header pipe" for a saito 180 so that I can get my muffler out of the cowling without cutting a hole in it right under the engine. I'd like to have the 10" flex extension with tap that saito makes but it doesn't have threads on the other end so that I could attach my stock muffler. Any suggestions?
Old 08-01-2008, 01:37 PM
  #11641  
w8ye
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The corrugated pipe does not need a muffler. It makes the exhaust quiet the way it is
Old 08-02-2008, 05:52 AM
  #11642  
Shubova
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Try these links...there has to be something there that would suit your needs and w8ye is right you don’t' need a muffler when using a flexible exhaust.
See the links below for ideas. [sm=idea.gif]
[:-]
http://saito-engines.info/mufflers.html
[:-]
http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=11B82F28FF89

If you absolutely want to use a muffler and flex hose here is an idea…I did once. I had the same problem I wanted the exhaust to come right out the bottom with the minimal of cutting and exhaust not to get all over the plane. I got a piece of black automotive tubing, the ID to fit snuggly over the end of the muffler and cut it to the length I needed. With my Dremel and a thin cut off wheel I ground a couple grooves around the end of the muffler…make sure not to cut through. I push the tubing over the end and used a small pipe clamp to clamp it down. It worked but then I wised up and just bought a flex hose as mentioned about.

I hope these ideas help!
Shubova
Old 08-02-2008, 05:56 AM
  #11643  
Shubova
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Hey Old Fart,
I see you can't sleep either. I know you from the Hellcat thread. You fly at Whitter Narrows, yes? Let me know when you are going to fly your Hellcat again, I want to see how she does.
Shubova
[8D]
Old 08-02-2008, 06:09 AM
  #11644  
Shubova
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Hey just noticed the time on the post I just sent. It's not 11:56:55 am. It's about 4:05 am here in California...I wonder why they show a different time. Maybe the server is located farther east then Cali.
Oh well just curious![sm=idea.gif]
Shubova
[8D]
Old 08-03-2008, 01:18 AM
  #11645  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


Another one Tower carries from RAM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDZ82&P=7

I've used and works well.
Old 08-03-2008, 05:37 PM
  #11646  
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here is the glow driver that I use. works great with no issues.


http://www.42-percent-products.com/glow-accessories.htm
Old 08-03-2008, 08:22 PM
  #11647  
Hobbsy
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=411691

S-man, you might give this a look, it is compact, light weight and gives a couple of hundred extra rpm in the bargain.
Old 08-06-2008, 02:06 AM
  #11648  
rvt64
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hi,

I have a FA82 on Seagull's AT-6 Texan, a FA91S on BH P-47 and a FA100GK on Seagull Edge 540. Awaiting my fourth, the new FA115GK for my new project.
The pictures will follow.

Robert
Old 08-06-2008, 01:14 PM
  #11649  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I am in the process of re-assembling my Saito 100.
I had to make a plate to pull the prop driver nut and taper collet.
I also made a pin to locate the timing mark in the correct position when the timing gear cover is assembled.
What order is best for reassembling this engine?
Is there a reason to use heat for installing the new bearings?
I have never had a taper collet thrust washer before. Do you just tighten the prop down to set the taper collet and drive washer

Thanks in advance
Greg
Old 08-06-2008, 02:18 PM
  #11650  
w8ye
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Just tighten the taper collet down with the prop/nut


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