Welcome to Club SAITO !
08-09-2008, 05:32 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I just put on an 8oz with my .82a . was running a 13oz and flights were way too long. Im getting right at 15+min on the last flight before the crash.
It depends on your airframe weight, drag of the frame and really comes down to how much throttle your using during flight.
Use a bigger tank ,fly around like you normally would for 15min then measure out what you used with some in for reserve and keeping air out.
You may be suprised how much fuel you actually need with a good tune up.
This is on a 5.5lb plane with an .82a on it BTW.
It depends on your airframe weight, drag of the frame and really comes down to how much throttle your using during flight.
Use a bigger tank ,fly around like you normally would for 15min then measure out what you used with some in for reserve and keeping air out.
You may be suprised how much fuel you actually need with a good tune up.
This is on a 5.5lb plane with an .82a on it BTW.
08-10-2008, 08:32 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Paul,
I have a 10 oz tank in my Yak with a .72 , after about 10 minutes flight it still takes a few minutes to empty it on the ground. I know I run mine a little rich too.
Andy
I have a 10 oz tank in my Yak with a .72 , after about 10 minutes flight it still takes a few minutes to empty it on the ground. I know I run mine a little rich too.
Andy
08-10-2008, 12:34 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
O.F.,
It has been my observation that the recommended propeller sizes for Saito engines may be a little optimistic. At least, this is what my experience has been with wooden Pro-Zinger propellers. I don't know if that is because of poor, or superior, efficiency
of these propellers.
The 13x6 you are using may be right at the top of propellers that a .62 will turn.
Also, you may well be running the engine far too rich. If the engine is laboring to turn the propeller and it is running rich it may well be drowning in its own fuel supply. People seem to have a great paranoia about running Saitos too lean. They will run when tuned too rich, but they run much better when tuned properly. If you have at least 30 or 40 minutes on the engine you are ready to tune it!
At wide-open throttle...Lean the HS to peak rpm...use a tach and go slowly to let the engine catch up to your adjustments.
Once peak, at wide open, is set it is time to set the LS. Go to high-idle and begin to lean the LS. Lean it until the rpm begin to sag. You are now a little lean. Open the LS 1/8 turn and open the throttle. If it dies, you are still too lean. Open 1/8 more, restart and try again. You are looking for the leanest setting that permits a reliable, repeatable, and clean transition to full throttle.
Once that is done, go back to wide-open and richen the HS for a 200 to 300 rpm drop. It may only be one or two clicks.
Do all this with the 13x6, or whatever prop you want to run o the engine. Good luck.
P.S.: If you have adjusted the LS needle prior to this exercise, return it to factory new (face of screw ~ 1mm inferior to the face of the throttle arm) before beginning. The HS must be adjusted first and you may have to turn the LS more that you can imagine being necessary from the original setting.
It has been my observation that the recommended propeller sizes for Saito engines may be a little optimistic. At least, this is what my experience has been with wooden Pro-Zinger propellers. I don't know if that is because of poor, or superior, efficiency
of these propellers. The 13x6 you are using may be right at the top of propellers that a .62 will turn.
Also, you may well be running the engine far too rich. If the engine is laboring to turn the propeller and it is running rich it may well be drowning in its own fuel supply. People seem to have a great paranoia about running Saitos too lean. They will run when tuned too rich, but they run much better when tuned properly. If you have at least 30 or 40 minutes on the engine you are ready to tune it!
At wide-open throttle...Lean the HS to peak rpm...use a tach and go slowly to let the engine catch up to your adjustments.
Once peak, at wide open, is set it is time to set the LS. Go to high-idle and begin to lean the LS. Lean it until the rpm begin to sag. You are now a little lean. Open the LS 1/8 turn and open the throttle. If it dies, you are still too lean. Open 1/8 more, restart and try again. You are looking for the leanest setting that permits a reliable, repeatable, and clean transition to full throttle.
Once that is done, go back to wide-open and richen the HS for a 200 to 300 rpm drop. It may only be one or two clicks.
Do all this with the 13x6, or whatever prop you want to run o the engine. Good luck.
P.S.: If you have adjusted the LS needle prior to this exercise, return it to factory new (face of screw ~ 1mm inferior to the face of the throttle arm) before beginning. The HS must be adjusted first and you may have to turn the LS more that you can imagine being necessary from the original setting.
08-10-2008, 04:29 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz
I have a 10 oz tank in my Yak with a .72 , after about 10 minutes flight it still takes a few minutes to empty it on the ground. I know I run mine a little rich too.
Andy
I have a 10 oz tank in my Yak with a .72 , after about 10 minutes flight it still takes a few minutes to empty it on the ground. I know I run mine a little rich too.
Andy
08-10-2008, 06:08 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a Saito 180 and I am having a problem with mufflers.
First stock muffler came apart flight.
I bought a Turbo header muffler with a 90 degree adapter, it stripped out on second flight. Then I decided to try the flex pipe muffler w/ pressure tap. Five minutes into the first flight with the flex muffler, the motor died. I managed a safe landing and found that the pipe broke just behind the jam nut.
I called Horizon hobby where I purchased it, they told me to send it in and they would then decided if they where going to replace it.
What other options for a muffler do I have? My engine is mounted sideways.
Thanks
First stock muffler came apart flight.
I bought a Turbo header muffler with a 90 degree adapter, it stripped out on second flight. Then I decided to try the flex pipe muffler w/ pressure tap. Five minutes into the first flight with the flex muffler, the motor died. I managed a safe landing and found that the pipe broke just behind the jam nut.
I called Horizon hobby where I purchased it, they told me to send it in and they would then decided if they where going to replace it.
What other options for a muffler do I have? My engine is mounted sideways.
Thanks
08-10-2008, 06:29 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Wingspam,
Contact me about your TurboHeader. You should not be having these kinds of problems with mufflers. Maybe we can work out the problem.
Jim
Contact me about your TurboHeader. You should not be having these kinds of problems with mufflers. Maybe we can work out the problem.
Jim
08-10-2008, 06:31 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I own an older Engine.
It is a Saito FS120 OS and it came out in 1983.
Are there any more manuals left of that engine? And does anyone know what size of 3B or 2B prop to use on this?
I want to install it on my Will Hobby Focke Wulf 190
Thank you.
It is a Saito FS120 OS and it came out in 1983.
Are there any more manuals left of that engine? And does anyone know what size of 3B or 2B prop to use on this?
I want to install it on my Will Hobby Focke Wulf 190
Thank you.
08-10-2008, 07:17 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
15 X 6 prop
The 1983 120 is very different from the last model.
However, in some of the the early parts of the club Saito forum and in the Saito notes at the top of the page there are some comments on the early 120. There are even some notes on low speed adjustment of the early 120.
The 1983 120 is very different from the last model.
However, in some of the the early parts of the club Saito forum and in the Saito notes at the top of the page there are some comments on the early 120. There are even some notes on low speed adjustment of the early 120.
08-10-2008, 07:34 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: blw
I know that I was getting over 15 minutes of pattern flight with my .72 and a 10 oz tank with plenty to spare.
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz
I have a 10 oz tank in my Yak with a .72 , after about 10 minutes flight it still takes a few minutes to empty it on the ground. I know I run mine a little rich too.
Andy
I have a 10 oz tank in my Yak with a .72 , after about 10 minutes flight it still takes a few minutes to empty it on the ground. I know I run mine a little rich too.
Andy
I can run it 10 minutes in the air, and if its WOT on the ground 3-4 more minutes tops. Idles good , transition is good , climbs straight up no problem. Wildcat 20/20 with an APC 14x4W prop Nitro Models Yak 54
08-10-2008, 07:39 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi all
Im about to start on my new project. I just acquired an Excelleron 90 pattern. Saito 125 seems to a great match for the power and weight.
The Excelleron 90 come with a anti vibe mount(it has clear/yellowish silicone block as damper unit). This ARF kit is like 2 yrs old in LHS. Question is do I ditch this anti vibe for a better unit because its old,
or get a bigger unit for Saito 125
or solid mount it to the frame? The airframe have a traditional 2 hardwood beam built in the firewall and structure already. I won't be able to use traditional engine mount on the excelleron without some serious cutting job on the nose and half upper cowl that already built in.
Is anti vibe mount really needed? I saw some MK anti vibe mount for 90 sizes, so perhaps the LHS have the 120 one.
Is there any diff between 2 stroke and 4 stroke anti vibe mount?
Im about to start on my new project. I just acquired an Excelleron 90 pattern. Saito 125 seems to a great match for the power and weight.
The Excelleron 90 come with a anti vibe mount(it has clear/yellowish silicone block as damper unit). This ARF kit is like 2 yrs old in LHS. Question is do I ditch this anti vibe for a better unit because its old,
or get a bigger unit for Saito 125
or solid mount it to the frame? The airframe have a traditional 2 hardwood beam built in the firewall and structure already. I won't be able to use traditional engine mount on the excelleron without some serious cutting job on the nose and half upper cowl that already built in.
Is anti vibe mount really needed? I saw some MK anti vibe mount for 90 sizes, so perhaps the LHS have the 120 one.
Is there any diff between 2 stroke and 4 stroke anti vibe mount?
08-10-2008, 08:18 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
OK all of you part # gurus out there. I've been trying to find a 90 deg. exhaust manifod for a FA 125a with absolutely no luck. I have discovered that the YS motors share the same size exhaust thread, but still no joy.
This motor is side-mounted in a H9 Funtana 100, and I'd like to keep the muffler in the cowl. Any tip, tricks, or suggestions will be welcomed.
Cheers! BH
This motor is side-mounted in a H9 Funtana 100, and I'd like to keep the muffler in the cowl. Any tip, tricks, or suggestions will be welcomed.
Cheers! BH
08-10-2008, 09:14 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
W8ye, thanks for the link. I had looked at that adapter, but had read somewhere along the way that they are prone to breakage if the muffler isn't supported properly and that Saito didn't recommend them for a muffler but for a flex pipe. Do you know if there is any validity to this?
Cheers! BH
Cheers! BH
08-11-2008, 06:11 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
BH, here is a side by side photo od the Horizon 90 and the RCSpecialties, the Horizon as you can see is cut off perfectly square where the threads end, that's where it breaks, and the RCS has a filet. I never used the Horizon one when I read on here that they break in flight.
08-11-2008, 06:32 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: rlmcnii
O.F.,
It has been my observation that the recommended propeller sizes for Saito engines may be a little optimistic. At least, this is what my experience has been with wooden Pro-Zinger propellers. I don't know if that is because of poor, or superior, efficiency of these propellers.
The 13x6 you are using may be right at the top of propellers that a .62 will turn.
Also, you may well be running the engine far too rich. If the engine is laboring to turn the propeller and it is running rich it may well be drowning in its own fuel supply. People seem to have a great paranoia about running Saitos too lean. They will run when tuned too rich, but they run much better when tuned properly. If you have at least 30 or 40 minutes on the engine you are ready to tune it!
At wide-open throttle...Lean the HS to peak rpm...use a tach and go slowly to let the engine catch up to your adjustments.
Once peak, at wide open, is set it is time to set the LS. Go to high-idle and begin to lean the LS. Lean it until the rpm begin to sag. You are now a little lean. Open the LS 1/8 turn and open the throttle. If it dies, you are still too lean. Open 1/8 more, restart and try again. You are looking for the leanest setting that permits a reliable, repeatable, and clean transition to full throttle.
Once that is done, go back to wide-open and richen the HS for a 200 to 300 rpm drop. It may only be one or two clicks.
Do all this with the 13x6, or whatever prop you want to run o the engine. Good luck.
P.S.: If you have adjusted the LS needle prior to this exercise, return it to factory new (face of screw ~ 1mm inferior to the face of the throttle arm) before beginning. The HS must be adjusted first and you may have to turn the LS more that you can imagine being necessary from the original setting.
O.F.,
It has been my observation that the recommended propeller sizes for Saito engines may be a little optimistic. At least, this is what my experience has been with wooden Pro-Zinger propellers. I don't know if that is because of poor, or superior, efficiency
of these propellers. The 13x6 you are using may be right at the top of propellers that a .62 will turn.
Also, you may well be running the engine far too rich. If the engine is laboring to turn the propeller and it is running rich it may well be drowning in its own fuel supply. People seem to have a great paranoia about running Saitos too lean. They will run when tuned too rich, but they run much better when tuned properly. If you have at least 30 or 40 minutes on the engine you are ready to tune it!
At wide-open throttle...Lean the HS to peak rpm...use a tach and go slowly to let the engine catch up to your adjustments.
Once peak, at wide open, is set it is time to set the LS. Go to high-idle and begin to lean the LS. Lean it until the rpm begin to sag. You are now a little lean. Open the LS 1/8 turn and open the throttle. If it dies, you are still too lean. Open 1/8 more, restart and try again. You are looking for the leanest setting that permits a reliable, repeatable, and clean transition to full throttle.
Once that is done, go back to wide-open and richen the HS for a 200 to 300 rpm drop. It may only be one or two clicks.
Do all this with the 13x6, or whatever prop you want to run o the engine. Good luck.
P.S.: If you have adjusted the LS needle prior to this exercise, return it to factory new (face of screw ~ 1mm inferior to the face of the throttle arm) before beginning. The HS must be adjusted first and you may have to turn the LS more that you can imagine being necessary from the original setting.
I did my homework well and read/studied all the threads in my effort to catch up after a long break from this hobby.Had the 62a running sweet and pulling 11000 on the test bench with an el cheapo master k series 12x6 prop......maybe that is it's limit and i should'nt have tried to be a flash *******,but thought the fancy apc 13x7 looked the go(i painted it to match the model)after talking to club flyers and asking their opinion.
Time to put the engine in the model upside down and some lateral thinking must have gotten in the way..on the test bench it ran free..no crankcase breather tubing to kink when you slide the cowl on and the standard muffler was still on it too.I wanted the exhaust inside the cowling so i modified that with genuine saito parts and then modified them! because no pressure nipple was supplied plus i swing a bigger prop on it and expected things to be pro quo if you like when she started again..what a nutter!!
I'll go backwards(no pun intended)and refit the standard pipe and test,then refit the 12x6 master prop.I think i am overloading this engine in a big way.I use a good tacho,it spits and hisses,stops wet and usually spits some fuel out of the carby when it stops.It is not using the fuel i supply it,that and/or i've got a carby problem.When they stop suddenly like that can they suck/kick air back thru the fuel line?..i'm lost.Next step if all that fails is to take the fuse and radio gear plus glo and chicken stick to the lhs and on bended knee(i'll be kneeling on my wallet)say..help me and i don't care how much it costs
08-11-2008, 07:10 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
OF, would you like some prop numbers using say a Bolly 13.5x6, 12.5x6 and Graupner 12x7. I lost one of my .62 about a month ago but still have one that's barely broken in.
08-11-2008, 08:08 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hobbsy what were your final tach readings on the 1.15?
Broke mine in over the weekend using an APC 15 x 8 Pattern prop
and got just under 8800 rpm
Should it be any problem mounting this engine inverted? Again, excuse the ignorance, first 4 stroke
Broke mine in over the weekend using an APC 15 x 8 Pattern prop
and got just under 8800 rpm
Should it be any problem mounting this engine inverted? Again, excuse the ignorance, first 4 stroke
08-11-2008, 09:13 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Sod, it is 8,650 richened down a couple of clicks to stabilize it. Here it is mounted in my XT60, I still have to paint the pipe to match the TurboHeader and check CG.
08-11-2008, 11:06 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
BoundtyHunter51
In reference to the threaded elbow that w8ye suggests. I bought one and the instruction say not to use it with a regular muffler or similar. It will break, I know because I disregarded the instruction and it broke the first time out. It is made to be used with the flex pipe exhaust that they sell. Also if you use a flex pipe and you have a hard time starting you engine…from my experience, a straight or flex pipe doesn’t create as much back pressure as a regular muffler. I filled the end with JB weld then drill it out to a smaller diameter. That works out well.
Good Luck
Shubova
[8D]
In reference to the threaded elbow that w8ye suggests. I bought one and the instruction say not to use it with a regular muffler or similar. It will break, I know because I disregarded the instruction and it broke the first time out. It is made to be used with the flex pipe exhaust that they sell. Also if you use a flex pipe and you have a hard time starting you engine…from my experience, a straight or flex pipe doesn’t create as much back pressure as a regular muffler. I filled the end with JB weld then drill it out to a smaller diameter. That works out well.
Good Luck
Shubova
[8D]