JustErik

Guys,

I tried searching this thread, but with 468 pages, it's virtually impossible to get anywhere, so I'll just ask here and hope no one takes offense. I picked up a low-time Saito 100 for a song, and except for one small issue, it's been a really good decision. From the first time I ran it, I noticed that the high speed needle was very VERY hard to turn. Fortunately, the state of tune was fairly close, so I didn't need to mess with it much. I have two other 100s, and both HSNs are silky smooth. To help narrow down the problem, I tried a needle from one of the other engines on the suspect one, and it too was almost impossible to turn. I concluded the spray bar must somehow be at fault. I now have a new spray bar in hand (only $6.50!), but can't seem to get the old one out. At this point all I've done is remove the nut and pull on the spray bar with my fingers. It won't budge, so I'm guessing it's a press fit. Anyway, how do I get out the old one and more importantly, how do I correctly install the new one without buggering up the threads or accidentally bending the thing? I'm hesitant to start pounding on either the old or new part for fear of screwing up something.

Thanks in advance,

Erik

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Your old spraybar is bent

You will notice that your new spraybar has a flange on it. On your old spraybar the flange is on the inside of the carb.
Therefore, you will have to push the old spraybar into the carb body to remove it.

There is a notch on the inside end of the spraybars. This notch goes towards the intake manifold when you insert your new spray bar from the inside of the carb body

JustErik

w8ye,

Thanks for the speedy reply. If I had just thought about it for a minute, I might have been able to conclude the same thing. The fact that the nut is on the OUTSIDE of the carb body must mean that the spray bar gets inserted or removed from the inside. Sometimes I don't think hard enough before giving up.

Thanks again!

Erik

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

It will look similar this from the engine side when installed as per Jims suggestion.

JustErik

Thanks guys, repair complete! Couldn't have been easier. Now if it would just stop raining so I can go fly.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Sometimes it is just too easy to ask and get an answer on RCUniverse?

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Hiya Guys....

I'm trying to decide on a ?? size fuel tank for the 180, which is in a 1/4 Citabria ( about 16lbs ) and I'll be swinging a MAS Classic 18x6 prop. Tank size will not be a problem as it can go anywhere, I'm indending to put at CG in cockpit, and running a Cline pressure system. I probably won't be flying at full *** all the time.

I'd like to fly for upto say 20 mins max, as I general stay aloft for 15 plus some reserves. I have a Dubro 950cc tank... would that be enough??

Thanks for you suggestions in advance.
Paul

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Is that a 32 oz tank? That should be big enough!

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Yeah 32oz, or I have a 40oz? that'll be way too much maybe and I'd have a big weight penalty I suppose with the extra weight of the fuel.

Hmmm maybe 32oz is a bit to big too. I wonder how long the 32oz would last? as I don't think I'll be flat out al the time.

maynardrupp

I have a Saito 100 gold and black. Th[sm=regular_smile.gif][sm=teeth_smile.gif][sm=teeth_smile.gif]is is my first 4-cycle engine. I have it in a Sig Waco SRE,(cabin). To get the exhaust into a recess in the belly, Sig asks you to use a Saito 6 or 7 inch flex pipe. When this engine was new I had to invert the airplane, which turns the cylinder upright, to get it started. It vibrated a lot until I leaned the low speed. In fact it vibrated so bad that it loosened my mount to firewall bolts and broke the flex pipe. After many runs it straightened out and I put a new flex pipe on. It now has several months of flying on the Waco. It starts and runs like a watch, flies the airplane great, and sounds like the real Waco.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I think 24 oz is the usual size for the 180? It uses 2 OZ / minute at full throttle

weezle

anybody have any prop suggestions for the saito 220?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

18-8 when running 10-15% fuel

A guy at the field was running a 20-8 with 30 heli fuel but I doubt he's running that anymore

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

A guy at our club has a Balsa USA 1/3 Super Cub with Saito 220 swinging a 20x6 prop... it goes real nice.... Think at the end of the day doesn't it depend on the type of plane and flying as to the right prop size??

Manufacturers specs for that engine which are 18x10 thru 22x6 ( APC props running 15% Nitro )

boogermancan

happy saito day


Note from moderator . . . This post is in reply to a post about 4 pages back about an engine vibrating

the pope

I have a couple of questions Ive been pondering over. Why does saito put a plastic backplate on the 72 and 82 and not on any others eg 62 ? Is it because they tried it as a experiment and figured its not worth it in the long run to put on other engines? Also the position of the crankcase vent , on my 82 its near the cam box where as on my 125 its on the packplate. Does the plastic backplate on the 82 dictate that the vent be placed else where ? I personally would like it near the cam as you can squirt ARO into that area as well as the bearings easier.Does the new style of the 125 cam box have any bearing on the vent placement ? Cheers the pope

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 62 uses the back plate from the 50/56.

50/56 engines can have the vent at two different places on the front or on the back plate depending on what year they were made.

I've often wondered about the placement of the vent myself.

isaacslaw

My Feedback: (4)

hi guys:

My Saito 82 is coming along fairly well. I have it set up on a cline regulator and have run about 1 1/2 gallons through it at this point. I am getting about 10,000 rpms richened to 9700-9800 on 15% Wildcat fuel using an APC 14X4 W. I was looking for a little more power and so I decided to try Wildcat 25% Heli-Mix. I now have 2 questions:

1) I experienced NO rpm gains! I played with the needles for about 30 minutes because I just couldn't believe that going up 10% nitro produced no additional rpms. It does idle a bit lower. What could I be doing wrong? Others have reported 11,000 rpms on this prop with 30% fuel.

2) I did not read the label well enough before purchasing the fuel. It contains 18% oil, of which 95% is synthetic and 5% is castor. I have owned a YS engine and have seen from doing the valves what the previous owner did to it using castor oil in the fuel. Is the fact that only 5% of the oil is castor mean I will not have the baked on junk on my valves or should I discontinue the use of the fuel?

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

You must of got Omega 25? I just use straight Coolpower 30% nitro 22% oil, it is a mess though.

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Does the length of a crankcase breath hose matter on my 180? if so what is the perferred length I should use? I was thinking if it is to be quite short I would vent it into a 35mm film canister to collect the overflow juice.

Cheers, Paul

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They usually say for it to be less than 6"

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

IL, I hope you haven't been breaking it in for the whole 1.5 gallons of fuel, you could have flown it 1.25 gallons ago. I have several Saitos and Enyas that have run on fuel containing castor for about 14 to 17 years and no build up on the valves. The fuel has been almost entirely WildCat Premium Extra with 18% 80/20 blend. Playing with the needles only leads to chasing your tail, Peak the HS needle to absolute peak, make sure by going past peak at full throttle until the engine slows slightly from being lean, then back to a smooth peak. Do this part slowly. Now you can set the LS needle.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, you and others may find this interesting, I ran the 2.20 Monday on the WildCat 2/4 cycle fuel which has 18% all synthetic. I let it sit nose down for two days and then pulled the back plate with out disturbing the oil inside. After the two days everything inside was still wet with oil and there was plentiful supply contrary to my experience with other all synthetic lubes which drained off and left the inner surfaces dry. I saved the lube out of the crankcase in a, God forbid, shot glass and will take a picture later in the day.

isaacslaw

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Hobbsy: I have been flying the engine now for awhile. It performs alright, but I was trying to get a bit more power. I have leaned it out past peak then back to peak and a couple hundred rpms rich I just didn't understand how going up 10% in nitro would have no effect on the rpms. That is also good to know about the castor oil.

jorgy-Delta

Thanks everyone for all the great info.

I just bought my 1st Saito. FA56 AAC
Little disappointed it didn't include the venturi extension, but thats in the mail now,
it truely is a beautiful engine.

Cool Power 15, APC 12x6

Have to admit, I struggled on the first handfull of starts( by hand ), but once I figured it out, smooth as silk.
2 clicks of T, prime, flip once=sputter / re-prime, one flip=running.
3 x 11 oz tanks now, just about have it tuned. ( weather not co-op for flying grrrr )
Just a little more tinkering(weather as been all over the place, so trying to set up on similar days ).

I'm not trusting my tach however, its old now & just want to see what you think.
Sea level, 40-50 humidity, 65-70F
I'm reading peak at 10,100.

How does that sound to you?