Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Its a sure indication that you're running it too lean, most Saitos have ABC like compression holding ability, they don't leak down, the 14x6 is a little light for the 1.00, a 14x8 or a 15x6 would be better.

mbrennan1

When changeing the bearings in my 125, I starterd disassembly, at what point do I pull off the front hub and do I need to pull the cam out??? I will wait until I get a reply. All I have out so far is carb and intake tube, back plate, valve covers, rockers, and stems.

alfredbmor

You will have to remove the front hub and the cam out.
I use a modified car battery connector puller tool, which I bought because someone here recommended it some time ago, then remove the cam timing gear and heat the main block, and then you can remove the bearings.

Even that these pictures are related of my recently overhauled Saito 1.00, (Not a 1.25) the procedure is the same.

alfredbmor

I also recommend you to read this thread for the tear down and reassembling process, take in mind that it is not the same engine size but the procedure and parts are very alike.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_76...tm.htm#7628750

Regards

Alfred.

mike early

Ahh, very good. Maybe my engine will continue to get stronger as well. But I like it regardless.
What RPMS are you seeing with your 16-6? Nitro Content used? Thanks.

OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

What are you doing in the third picture?

When I pulled the prop washer off on my100, the collet came out with it.

Greg

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

Hello, Hate to start another subject but have questions about my new/unused, but older Saito 1.50.
There is a tiny letter B on the mounting lug, so it is somewhat older-I must have bought it over ten years ago, but have yet to use it.

Question 1: The cigar shaped muffler - Is it prone to breakage as I vaguely remember some discussion?
Question 2: Is this muffler too restrictive so I should just buy a new modern "vase" shaped muffler and be better off?
Question 3: IS a slimline Pitts smoke muffler a good substitute for the old muffler or am I just borrowing trouble/ unreliability etc.?
QUestion 4: Is this B model Saito a high-compression version that is more difficult to tame down when compared to newer 1.50?
Thanks for any input!!
GarySS

alfredbmor

This one needed a little help to go out so I used a tiny flat screwdriver to open the collet.

Alfred.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Gary, only the first run of Saito 1.50s had the 14.4 to 1 compression, I have the arly HC one and it has no letter designation on the mounting lug. That muffler is a good one, the TurboHeader may be a better choice of afterMarket muffler due to its compact size and shape plus its good for about 240 more rpm on the 1.50. The muffler you have is jokingly called the Fire Hose Nozzle Muffler.

Falcon26

Hello everyone my Saito list is 1) 1.50 1)1.20s 1) 1.00 1) 82 1) 82GK (looks really cool uprite in my Twist) I ordered a 115 for my Seagull Harrier 90 3D is there anyone who has a handle on this engine for 3D yet Prop, fuel, Nitro %, and RPM range

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

APC 14-4W for the 82.
For the 115 APC LP16040W 16x4W $ 12.95

n9331v

Anyone with a Saito 325R, can you tell me what the rpm should be with a 20x10 and a 20x8 and the best props used for performance on this engine.

With A Master Air Screw Classic Series 20x10 I am getting 5400rpm on 15% nitro, it does not seem very good.

Thanks

cpsdd56

Hi all, having a problem keeping the sleeve that threads into the exhaust port on a slimline inverted muffler in place. directions say to use silicone,I've tried this twice with high temp silicone and it keeps unscrewing. This is on an FA100.I've cleaned the port and sleeve with acetone. Any help would be appreciated.
THANKS

wessco

My Feedback: (7)

On a Saito .72, which way does the dot on the connecting rod face upon re-assembling it?

Mikecam

I had trouble keeping my Keleo on my 125 and they recommended the high temp silicone. I cleaned it up and wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads, threaded on quite easy so I wrapped a little more and then took a big socket to it. Ran it to heat everything up and when hot tightened it some more, surprised how much tighter it went. So far about 5 flights and still on good. With the silicone after the first 3 minutes I noticed it already coming off, was worried but the Teflon so far has worked for me. There will be other answers and I'm positive one of them will work for you. Good luck.

Ken6PPC

The dot goes back in the same direction it came off. I don't think the position of the dot really "means" anything, because I have opened up identical Saito's, and found the dots on the connecting rods in different positions. One of my Saito rods didn't have a dot at all!

The connecting rod and the pin on the crank were "broken in" in the original position, and it is best if you put it back the same position where it was broken in.

However, if you don't have any idea which direction the rod was in before you took it apart, try putting the rod on in one direction, and hand rotate the crank with the piston and cylinder attached, but not the cam or lifters. Then switch the rod to the other position, and rotate the crank again. You may "feel" a smoother operation in one direction than the other. If so, the smoother position is the one you want.

If you can't feel any difference, your engine probably can't tell either!

wessco

My Feedback: (7)

Well....it's getting a new rod and crank, so I guess it won't matter!

Wess

wessco

My Feedback: (7)

Brick walls and Saitos do not mix well.

Falcon26

Thank you W8ye for the quick response does the 115 like rich side 30% Wildcat or coolpower like the 100 or should I keep it on a 15% diet from what the harrier 90 forum repeats the plane likes a 16x4w around 9.5 to 10K to be very spirited and have all the get out of trouble punch it needs
if you or anyone else out there would like to comment I would like to learn from your input thanks in advance also is there any need for a fuel pump ?

Ken6PPC

The chamfered side of the crank shaft hole goes towards the crank.

If you haven't already done so, you need to scuff up the cylinder wall with some sandpaper, so the ring will re-seat itself.

wessco

My Feedback: (7)

Gonna put a new ring in there too. the only thing not new is cam and piston.

alfredbmor

In the 72 the dot goes towards the front of the engine, there is a slight difference when assembling the wrong way and it is perceptible.

Ken6PPC

Was that on a NEW connecting rod?

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Use regular Red ,black or Blue silicon RTV. Clean the threads before applying.The o-rings they provided will most likely blow out . I just used a lot of Red RTV on mine and it held "ok" till the Brace cracked loose then I shelfed it for something more reliable.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Saito recommends a 20x8 and the manual states you should get ~7,500 rpm at full throttle with that prop. Idle should be ~1,700 rpm. Sounds like you have at least one cylinder not firing if you're only getting 5,400.