mike109

G'day mate. As I sit here it is pouring. Lately we have had one or two wet days a week. Cowra (where the pix were taken) is about 200 km away but the climate is very similar to here in Dubbo. Last year, the crops looked terrible and most blokes just cut their losses and put the animals in or made hay with the wheat. This year they look like they are going to get good harvests. The field where we were flying is very green as the farmer has seeded it with clover to fatten up his lambs. His canola and wheat look great too. The mowen bit makes a nice smooth landing field and the "rough" is still short enough to land on though you do stop rather quickly. I dropped in there last Friday (we flew on Sunday) and there were a couple of hundred July drop lambs all happily munching away and leaving the results all over the place. Took me ages to clean my shoes. The drought is still with us but this year is much better than last as the photos show. Even the field here in Dubbo has some growth on it and I think I will actually have to mow it soon.

mike early

I have searched, and searched RCU...and other boards as well...and I cannot find a single review of a Saito Gasoline engine.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I think Andrew Coholic did one for Fly R/C a while back?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Francisco, I have that engine and most likely the manual. I'll get back to ya.

sodbuster 1

and first place in awesome uses for an airplane engine goes to........Knnortje!

have got to see some video on that thing.
you using anything to cool it?

Patxipt

Sweet Hobbsy! Thank you![8D]

Knorretje

Hi everybody,

Stil waiting for the valve time setting from a Saito 450R and good maintainance manual, tips to have more power.
And more tips and tricks for this Saito engine.

For everybody how asked, here is the video from this engine running on my micropuller.

[link=http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=-TGBP4JRFEw]VIDEO KNORRETJE[/link]


Greetings,
Frank

sodbuster 1

pretty cool. Thanks for the video!

What weight/wingspan plane would be a good match for the new 1.15?
Had bought it thinking I would use it in a Goldberg Decathlon but used a 1.00 instead.

Was thinking along the lines of maybe a warbird

AJsToyz

That was way to cool !! I like the way the engine shakes the tractor !!

Andy

RC Specialties

sodbuster,

I would stay with a 60 size warbird for the 1.15. Any bigger and it would not be enough. It would fly any 60 size sleek nosed warbird really well. I have a 60 size Hellcat that I will mount a 1.25 in due to the large area nose and I like the speed.

Jim

mike early

That tractor is wild! They're going to need to get heavier trailer for that bad boy!

Shubova

My Feedback: (9)

Hi,
This question may have been asked before but I don’t have time to look thru all the posts.
Is there a chart or some definite information that gives the best running temperatures for the various engines?
Shubova
[8D]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If someone gave you a figure you would most likely be chasing your tail trying to measure it and truly feel you knew what you were doing.

The problem is that a Saito will measure all different temps across the top of the head in the rear.

The hottest point is right where the exhaust pipe comes out,

The value is <300F

But with your IR gun you need the emissivity set correctly on your gun for unpolished aluminum stained with castor oil

Patxipt

Here you go


http://www.espritmodel.com/browsepro...yl-Radial.HTML
http://file.espritmodel.com/document...90R_Manual.pdf

mike early

At what temperature has the crankcase been overheated to the point it expands but cannot constrict to the original size?
It seems that my front bearing stays rather loose nowadays. I've run it hot before...to the point that it has somewhat melted the nylon motor mount.
I've also used the torch to remove the rear bearing....maybe a bit too enthusiastically. Although I've learned from my mistakes, I am wondering if it's time to get a new crankcase.

After running, the crankshaft has axial play, which appears to be the front bearing sliding back and forth.

Patxipt

You seem to have a bad bearing. I have heated the crankcase of my ASP FS52 last sunday to bake the new painting scheme for 250ÂșC for 2 hours and it's perfect as before. Saito has certainly better foundry methods than Sanye.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Patch, I have the FA 45 instructions copied, shoot me an addy and I'll see about sending them, Dave

Patxipt

You have PM Hobbsy![8D]

mike early

I've tried different bearings. Same situation. 250ÂșC is pretty hot. Hmm!
Maybe the crashes are more of a factor.....maybe they stretched out the front housing from the impact...

Mikecam

Well looking for some help with my 125. So far she has run great. Break in was a dream and the first 15 flights have been without a single problem. So today I tried to set the low speed and it was hit or miss for 2 hours. I peaked the HS first and then slowly started turning the LS till it bogged just a bit. Went back a little and still bogged. Went back some more and then the other way and could find no sweet spot. I would let it idle for 30 seconds and 3 times in a row it would rev up great and I would think I had it and then on the 4th it would stumble, sometimes with smoke and sometimes with out. I think I know what I'm doing and I did the LS after 5 flights and had it perfect and then went 1/4 turn richer just because the motor was still new. I do have play in the throttle barrel and the end of the screw was more square then round. I'm planning on getting the du-bro throttle mount and a new screw before making another attempt. Keleo exhaust with the carb horn and omega 10%. peak is 8900 and a little more with out the horn but I don't like the mess and prefer the better fuel mileage. Could the horn be causing the tough tuning, I didn't have it on when I first did the LS. Any thoughts. Thanks

mike early

When you say bogging, you are referring to during transition, correct?

I don't mind a bit of a stumble when going from idle to WOT immediately. It certainly is preferable to the low end being too rich and loading up/stalling out. Of course I don't use my engine for 3-D flying so I rarely need to go from idle to WOT immediately. If it idles at 2000 for a few minutes without quitting and will go to WOT without cutting out, I'm happy.


What prop are you using?

Mikecam

16x6 apc. Yes during transition I wouldn't mind a small bog but 1/8 turn in and she really hesitates, to the point that if I don't pull back on the throttle she will quit. 1/8 turn out and she bogs with a lot of smoke and then on the 3rd and 4th try she is perfect and then she acts up again. I had it perfect when I did the LS on the bench and so I'm wondering what changed. I did add the velocity stack/horn for the carb and wondering if that could be causing trouble. Always had the keleo exhaust on it and the screw doesn't look the best either. Reading on here the experts say to keep the LS just out from hesitating but having trouble with that. Thanks for the help.

mike early

Well, I am sure the velocity stack and air filter keep a lot of fuel inside the carb where it belongs....but I am not sure how it affects transition. I noticed it did drop a few hundred RPM off my top end. One of our long-time Saito owners will have some experience with your particular set up...

Are you using the Keleo Scale V-12 exhaust?

mike early

What screw is that in the photograph? The carb-barrel keeper-screw?

Some folks claim that higher nitro makes tuning a bit easier. Have you been using the same fuel throughout?

I've noticed my 1.25 break-in was a gradual process over a few gallons of fuel....

boogermancan

um my 125 swings a 17x6 and dose not stumble might want to look for a leak in the fule line or and might be fuel foam my vid [link=http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=noIV5X0hVG0]my 125[/link]
<<<edit ummmm the velocity stack and air filter>>>> i missed that part i was reading some were back were<<< w8ye>>> posted about the velocity being the same one for a 82 <<maby its a smaller carb hole>> never looked to see