NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Shoulda stuck an OS Type-F in there, Dave. Would have idled for an hour.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Oops! Sorry about that.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Pete:

Thanks for the clarification. I copied your post to the postings on Saito exhaust thread sizes. As I said there, the 1/2-20 and 13 x 1 mm threads are easily confused.

Out of curiosity, why was the 1/2" thread used to start with?

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Ed but I've tried that enough times to know that nothing happens beyond being able say there's a different plug in it. William, here's one for you, I shut the .56 down and restarted it a few times to day, each times as I always do, I started it with the throttle set where it would run at about 3,500 rpm when it started. At each start the engine would speed up when the plug battery was removed. I changed from the 12x6 Graupner to a 12.5x6 Graupner and it dropped 1,100 rpm from 10,257 to 9,270, drastic change, more than you'd think. 10,700 was possible with the 12x6 but 9,400 was max for the 12.6x6.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

New listings:

159 Brunito
160 lrr
161 stinghd
162 kimhoff
163 coloradokurtis
164 thinano
165 rmarnold
166 dprater

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

David:

I've never had a rise in rpm when the glow heat was disconnected, but a semi-educated guess says the plug is a little TOO hot with power on causing the ignition to have too much lead. When the battery is undone the plug cools, and the burn starts where it should.

And the prop. Looks like, on the day you did it, the 12" was the best one for that fuel in that engine. A different day or different fuel could give different results.

Bill.

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Guys, I have a question regarding my Saito 1.80 GK...what is the valve lash setting? I recently bought one used and want to go over it before I put it through its paces..

Also for a good prop? I ordered the APC 18x6W and the 16x8 for starters..

THanks in advanced..

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mu2:

The 18x6W might be a shade much, an 18x6 standard blade will work fine. The 16x8 should be OK too.

The valve lash specification is 0.04 to 0.1 mm, generally speaking the tighter you set them the better the power will be. If you use a feeler of 0.0015" thickness you'll be fine.

Bill.

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Bill thanks for the quick reply...I will set them tonight...

Also the plug I bought is a os F, and the fuel I bought is the Byron 30% with 24% Oil Heli fuel

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mu2"

The OS "F" plug is fine, and the 24% oil is fine for break in running. For normal service I just use the 15% Omega. It's 18% oil with a castor blend, and to me the extra cost of 20% or higher nitro isn't worth it in the performance gain. If you find you like the 30% you wont hurt anything using it, but be sure your fuel oes include some castor oil. I think the Byron is all synthetic, but I'm not sure.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Those two run were only about an hour apart, I had to whittle on the TruTurn spinner to get it on the 12.5 incher. I ran into the same thing with the 12x8 three blade and the 12.5x7 three blade Graupners. My Fox .74 Diesel will turn the Graupner 12x8 3 bld at 9,000 but will only turn the 12.5x7 at 7,900 there again an 1,100 rpm loss going to the 12.5 but in this case one inch less pitch. I guess I'll have to bum Jims pitch guage.

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Again Bill...I got the fuel for real cheap...I will use less expensive fuel in the future...

car147

Just aded another Saito 180 to the Hanger....

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

This engine is one fine piece...Its going into a Ultra-RC Giles...hoping for unter 11 pounds

gjeffers

ohhhh man!!!! horizon just changed the due date for the next order of 125's to early feb[]

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

Worth the wait I bet...

I gave my 1.80 to my good friend "Ret. American Airlines Mech." he went through the thing from head to toe...now its ready for the install...

lrr

Bill,

Thanks for adding me. This thread is great -- I really look appreciate all the great info from everyone.

I'm going to break in my 82 (Christmas present from my wife -- you gotta love a woman that supports her husband's hobbies!) this weekend if it isn't below zero! Just borrowed a test stand from a friend who turned me on to Saitos. He has never owned anyting else, even had a 91 on his first trainer (60 sized)!

Lee

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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I must have bought the last of the previous batch. Mine will be on the way tomorrow, if I read their notice correctly.

Corwin38

My Feedback: (2)

Okay guys. Here's one for you. Saito 1.20 swinging a 16x6 APC prop. Starts up, high end is around 9300 rpm (high speed needle set with no problem). When I try to idle I can get down to 3500 with a lot of knocking and sputtering and it eventually dies. With the glow attached I can run my throttle stick all the way down but the rpms are around 4200-4300. When I remove the power it dies. I also noticed a lot of oil on the pavement (using a Slimline Pitts muffler). Fuel....Cool Power 15%. Weather....71 degrees, moderate humidity. I completely took the carb apart last night and checked all the fuel lines. Just hoping for some pointers before I try again today. BTW, the plane was last flown about 6 months ago with no engine issues. Yes, it was the same fuel can then.

Thanks.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Do you have the older air-bleed carb? Or is it the current style with a low speed mixture adjustment?

Corwin38

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the responses so far. Forgot to mention that I did replace the glow plug with a new OS Type F. And the carb is not the air bleed type.

Keep 'em coming.

Jack211

[quote]ORIGINAL: William Robison



My oil of choice for pre-lube and after run is ATF Dexron. Costs a buck a quart instead of $4 for two ounces in a bottle that says "After Run Oil" on it. And I can't tell any real difference.
_______________

Bill,

I have an 82a and a 1.0. I bought the 82, my first 4 stroke, in August 05, put it on a Twist and, once tuned, did yeoman service. Then I heard a buzzing in the engine--in flight--and brought her down. The prop moved with tell-tale signs of bearings going bad. Returned it October 10, got it back, rebuilt, no charge, at the end of October. It actually ran better after the new break in than the original when brand new. Then, Jan 8, in preflight, I felt movement in the forward bearing. I sent it back, they replaced the bearings and warned me that it wasn't under warranty because they found rust on the bearings, but fixed it free anyway, and spoke of the corrosive nature of the fuel--and the importance of after-run oils.

Understand, I fly every day I can, weather permitting, seldom have more than two days off--and almost ALWAYS with the 82 Twist, my favorite bird. I use Wildcat Premium 15% nitro/18% castor/synthetic--what almost everyone else I know uses. Every time I've taken off the tappet caps or the rear crank plate, I've found nothing but castor oil all about. Though Wildcat brags of their fuels and lubricants, evidently they're not doing the job.

So I need to know the best way to preserve my engine. This is what I understand: 1) at the end of the day drain fuel, disconnect the fuel line from the engine and try to start it again--to get all the residual fuel burned off; 2) put a couple of drops of your ATF Dexron (more about that in a moment) in the carb and turn it over to spread it around.

Questions: Is that process sufficient to protect my Saitos? Is the ATF Dexron a DESSICATING oil, that is, will it absorb the residual moisture--which obviously creates an acid, causing the rust? What is the nature of that acid? Is it sulfuric acid? Something else? Is there a better oil? [I heard the oil used for air pressure tools, which have the moisture problem, is the best oil to use.]

I appreciate your time and contributions to this thread. [I haven't read through it all yet, or perhaps I'd already have my answers. Forgive me if that's true.]

Jack

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes Dexron ATF is usually sufficient. It must absorb the residual moisture for I have never seen evidence of moisture in a Auto transmission. The acid is a combination of several with sulphuric being prominent. Air tool oils work also.

Enjoy,

Jim

Corwin38

My Feedback: (2)

Update........I just did a test run. I switched from the Cool Power 15% 4-stroke to Omega 15% for 2-stroke (still thinking it might be bad fuel). Was running good on high end (9300-9450 rpm). Then I went to adjust the high speed needle valve. The entire intake manifold rotated. Seems at high rpm the nut holding the manifold to the cylinder head was loose enough to cause this. So after tightening that down, starting back up, adjusting the high end, I brought it down to an idle of 2250 with no glow attached. Lot of knocking though. After a quarter turn (lean) on the low speed needle I got a real smooth transition from low to high. It still seems a little rough at idle. The tail feathers are vibrating like crazy. I guess I should mention here that this is on a Funtana 90. Is this something I'll just have to live with or is there a trick to smoothing out the idle?

So....bad plug? Bad fuel? Air leak in manifold? Dirty carb? Combination of all of these? I'll still take any pointers you can throw at me.

Thanks

kurt.albert

Hello Gents

Does someone have some tips how to run my first saito?

cheers, Kurt