Mr67Stang

Hello Saito experts. I have a unique engine failure situation on my work bench. Firstly the engine is not mine. It belongs to a fellow club member. It is a Saito .56 and in flight the engine suddenly stopped. So violently that the spinner nut almost spun itself off. Upon disassembly and inspection it was found that the engine had dropped a valve. (guessing valve retainer failure) The valve of course bent and pushed out the bronze valve guide, broke the rocker arm and cracked the piston putting the repair bill (parts only) at $124.63 plus shipping. Unfortunately he is not the first owner of this engine and has no reciept of purchace. So does anyone have any ideas as to how he can repair this for a more reasonable price or did he just make a cool paper weight?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It's a paper weight there's just too much wrong

It is best to use the remaining good parts as spares for another engine

ECSAILOR

My Feedback: (51)

I have a Saito FA 100. I am new to Saitos and am in need of adjustment advice.
I adjusted the inset screw on my engine when I was changing the orientation of the throttle. What is the starting adjustment on this screw? Thanks for a reply, Stan

hobbynutt

[&o]I had a used .56 and was sorry to put it down. May still have some of the bones? Is the cylinder wall damaged by the piston ? My cylinder was totaly used up. The piston was rocking inside, even with a new ring and piston !
WILL CHECK MY GRAVEYARD AND GET BACK TO YOU. Jeffy

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They come from the factory being flush with the outside of the arm.

That is too rich on the Saitos with the plastic arm. After you get it running and adjust for proper mixture the screw is a little below the surface of the plastic arm

LMProd

Frets24

Thanks for the reply and explanation. I also have a H9 Sop Camel waiting for an engine. Maybe I should put the 90T on this instead of the Skybolt.

Gary

Mr67Stang

The Cylender is a wash simply due to the destruction of the bronze valve guide. They do not sell it seperately. However if you have all the other parts and all that would need to be purchaced is a cylender head then my buddy may save the engine. I look forward to hearing from you.

s10junky83

I have now reassembled my saito 100 and have the vavles set at .002 and the thing vibrates bad! When i loosen the valves to .008-.010 it smoothes out great! Why??????? Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It is not making as much power with the valves opened up

The timing may be off a tooth? Can you check it by checking that the overlap position is at top dead center?

mike early

Good call! Thanks.

I had found:
http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on
but the Higley looks better methinks, and the price is right!

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

The 90T pulls that plane around just fine and has some to spare. Keleo has a 90T exhaust for $50 that sounds great and puts the pipes right where you want em out the bottom.

If you have all the wing wires installed I would highly recommend passing a safty wire through the eye of one of the turn-buckle screws, then thru the turn-buckle, then the other eye and fastening. Even with the lock nut these have a way of loosening and then you loose the turn-buckle. (Especially with the 90T) Also the flapping wire and t-b screw pokes holes in your covering. Not my personal experience, Just advice well heeded from another menber...I used 22ga from some scavenged alarm or phone wire. Bread ties with the covering stripped off works, too.

Capt Lou

Mr67stang:

I do not know if your engine is repairable but to give your situation some reality, price out the cost of individual parts to repair this engine. I'm sure that you will find that the total cost of indiviual parts is not worth trying to repair the engine and that it is more cost effective to just buy a new engine. You can get cost data at www.horizonhobbies.com


Lou Castelli

Mr67Stang

Yes, I did that and that is where I got the figure of $124.~ for parts. As I mentioned the engine is not mine and my buddy does not want to spend the $220 for a new one. He may just have to suck it up though. He bought the engine used installed on a Sig 4 Star 40 so I'm not sure how much he has in it.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Check the 4 stroke 4 sale board and fleabay .56's show up on there all the time at about $100. even if you have to replace the bearings and ring that's only another $25 or just put the top end from the "new" used motor on the old bottom end.

Capt Lou

Mr67stang:

Tell your friend to look at the buy-sell section, engines-4 stroke under the RCU home page. You can find some new saito 56 for about $175

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

It's been some time since I last visited club saito. Good to be back here again.

Anyway, I need to make a grip washer that goes between the thrust washer and spinner backplate of my Saito 125 (the serrations on the thrust washer has worn off). What would be the best type and grit size of sandpaper to use, and what type of glue is best to glue the discs back-to-back?

merril

Mike
I did this several years ago. I think a grit of 220 or finer would do. I used some spray adhesive for gluing.
Merril

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Mike you need to hang out here all the time

bonesonpoint

Hello folks. I need a little advice. I have a Saito 100 on a Hangar 9 60 Corsair. I have the low speed tuned in and I have the high speed a few hundred rpm's off of peak. This engine has about 1 1/2 gallons through it. I am running the H9 plug, 15% Byrons w/16% oil, APC 14x8 prop yesterday but problem is with any prop I've tried. I am in Oklahoma.

Problem is, it runs great, leaves a nice little smoke trail, no complaints with it at all except in a fairly steep dive at full throttle it will cough, and it even sounds like it has died but then it comes back to life and I pull the throttle back and everything is fine. My question is, what is causing this coughing, nearly flaming out on me at high speed? I have a Saito 91 that has never done that in 10 years.

Thanks for any advice.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I'd be looking at the clunk in the tank

bonesonpoint

I checked the clunk and it looks good. If I back off of FULL throttle just a shade so that the engine doesn't hit top rpm in the dive it doesn't cough. It's when it hits that max rpm that it happens. The rest of the time it runs great. No problems at all in level full throttle flight or even in a dive if I back off the throttle just a shade. I just hate having to back off when what I'm trying to do is go Fast!

I wonder if a tiny air leak somewhere might cause it. I was hoping someone had encountered this before. I can't read all these posts to see if they have. Thanks for the help, and I welcome anyone who has experienced this before.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If backing off the throttle a little helps, I suspect your are a little on the lean side

RC Specialties

Bones,

Some tank kits that come with ARF's has fairly stiff tubing for the clunk. This prevents the clunk from following the fuel. If it only happens in a steep dive, I would make sure this is not the case.

Jim

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Use a coarse drywall sanding screen. Works great!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The drywall sanding screen is the same on both side and you will not need to glue to sides together