w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You can try warming it up with your Monokote gun.

Sometimes they loosen up by gentle heat.

If it is not rusty, there shouldn't be much of a problem getting it loose

Regular solvents like denatured alcohol or acetone are not going to hurt it.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

-


I didn't mean you, Jim. I was referring to Barry. It sounded (read) as though he didn't check his HSN regularly. That is bad practice as far as I'm concerned. I'm not attacking Barry. We're just talking here.

The low speed needle's position cannot damage an engine by being too lean. The engine simply won't idle and transition properly and isn't under much of a load. The HSN is another matter entirely, for two or four-stroke glow engines.

It is very easy to become complacent about the perceived lack of need for tuning the HSN each and every flying day. What's worse, I even see some folks bragging about not adjusting their glow two-strokes for multiple flying sessons. This is just plain foolish based upon a lack of understanding on just how sensitive our glow two-stroke engines are to minor atmospheric changes. Even four-stroke glow engines benefit from a check at the beginning of every flying day. Who wants to get airborne and then lose a prop and propnut assembly due to running too lean? Yeah, the double nut system used today greatly reduces the chance of losing the parts, but a backfire causes a bit of engine damage every time it happens. As expensive as four-stroke engines are, I'd rather get into the habit of checking the HSN at the beginning of every flying session.

No offense is meant to my friend Barry.

The more one adjusts the engine's carburetor, the more familiar and less of a chore it becomes. This is one task that becomes super easy in a very short time and instills a sense of confidence and mastery over that engine.


Ed Cregger

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Well, I do use a tach but mostly rely on how and engine sounds/performs in the air when I get to know it. This one just stayed the same year round.


edit for grammar

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

It's obvious that you already possess that sense of mastery and confidence, Barry.


Ed Cregger

mike109

G'day OF The little Rainbow is actually not all that small but it is very light and I think a 62 would simply shake it to bits. I have never worked out what revs my electric motor is doing in it but I suspect it is aroung 9000 with a 11 x 4 prop so I suspect your little Saito 30 will be fine with a 10 x 6 or 10.5 x 5. It is not meant to be a screamer but is almost a floater. Its big strength is lightness and that is why it flies so well. It is very strong for a light structure but I would not call it robust although as I told you before, mine crashed on its nose from about 30 feet and the only thing to be badly damaged (apart from the prop and a bit of dirt in the motor) was the canopy.

I have just finished putting my FA-62 in a 85% (about 80 inches) Lanzo Bomber old timer. I reckon it will go just about straight up on full power (with a big fist full of down elevator to stop it from looping). Or I can bring the revs up just over idle and just float off. Sadly, the weather this weekend is looking horrible here - windy and rain. We need the rain but the wind is a pain.

I have also just ordered my next Saito - An FA-90TS which will be going into a new Goldberg Anniversary Cub that I managed to find in kit form. A 60T would have flown it but there aren't any available round here at the moment and I can use the 90TS in something larger later on. I already have a very old Goldberg Cub which I finished from a part built example and it has had engines from an OS 70 Surpass (Spitfire Mode) to an Enya 46 4c (nice and scale). It currently has an ASP 61 which is very light and more than enough by far but I have always wanted to have a twin to listen to so here we go.

av8djc

My Feedback: (4)

I got to post number 50 until I got smart and looked at how many posts there are here . I don't think I'll live long enough to read them all.

I just bought a used Saito 100 and that will be my first four stroke in 35 years of R/C flying. I think it will go into my Goldberg Extra and lighten it up a little as it will replace an OS108! One question though. I'm using Wildcat 2/4 cycle fuel 10% nitro and 18% oil that I boost to about 20% by adding a little Klotz. I'd rather boost it with castor but have not found a source yet. So I think it is 20% all synthetic unless the 2/4 stroke thing means there is castor in it. Will that harm the engine? I've been away from R/C for about four years and am 100 miles from a hobby shop so that's the only fuel I could readily obtain. Most of the fuel bottlers have a distinct lack of mix percentages and ingredients on the label these days it seems. I might have to find the source for the ingredients and start mixing my own again.

I should get the engine today and am looking forward to putting it on a test stand and running it.

Dave

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I long for the old days, when there was no hazardous materials shipping charge. Then buying fuel via mail or phone call was easy and you saved money. However, if I had to drive 100 miles to buy fuel, I'd just order a case of quarts from Tower Hobbies (no hazardous materials shipping charge on quarts) and have it delivered to my door. Tower fuel is made by Wildcat, which is a great fuel and my choice of fuel anyway.

No, you won't hurt your Saito 1.00 running the fuel that you have described.

I hope your model was grossly overpowered with the OS 1.08FSR, because the Saito 1.00 will not be nearly as powerful as your previous two-stroke. It's a good engine, the Saito 1.00, but four-strokes make less power per cubic inch of displacement that two-strokes. My Saito 1.00 is waiting patiently for me to get it airborne. I have a 1/4 scale Cub in which it would fit/fly perfectly. Now to marry the two together.


Ed Cregger

charlie1960

Gentlemen,

I have a Saito 1.00 pulling a World Models .60 P-51. I couldnt be more pleased with the engines performance. It seems the more i fly this engine the smoother it gets. It's mounted inverted, i use 30% fuel, and no glow driver. It idles well below 2000 and spins the 14x8 MA at 9000 depending on the air. Sometimes i can get a little more out of it.
It will pull a 15x8 MA but only about 8800

I love the howl of this engine coming down out of a shallow dive on a fly by.

Would love to know if those Turbo Header mufflers are all they are advertised to be.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I really should drag out that 1/4 scale Clipped Wing Cub ARF (red and white) and get busy on getting it ready for flying this season. The Saito .91, 1.00 or my 1.25 would all be easy installs and good power. I'm doing my best to resist the 1.15 and jump to the 1.25 gasser. I can easily afford to fly the gasser. In fact, I may sell off the other glow four-strokes in that size range to buy the gasser. I wonder if there are any 1.25 gassers in country? I'll have to check.


Ed Cregger

charlie1960

If you do decide to unlod the 1.00 let me know.
Im considering a new AT-6 later this spring.

av8djc

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Ed. I make that 100 mile drive every couple of weeks anyway so I can just stock up. Glad to hear the Wildcat is good fuel. Does the "2/4 stroke" designation nean it is an 18% synthetic and castor blend? I really need to find some castor. I guess I'll try a motorcycle shop for that.

Yes, the Goldberg Extra is GROSSLY overpowered with the 1.08! I also have a couple of ounces of lead in the tail so I think the 100 will be just right. I like slower smooth scale-like aerobatics and am not too interested in 3D. Gee, a 1/4 scale Cub and the Saito 100. I have a 1/4 scale Royal Supercub with a Moki 1.8 that I built years ago for glider towing. It's up for sale right now because I'm too far from the glider guys and I want to stay with a little smaller airplanes, about 100-120 size. Maybe I should look at the 1.25 gasser also?

Dave
Moderator added formatting codes

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.wildcatfuels.com/container.html

I am a big fan of WildCat Fuel and am currently using the 15% 2/4, it is 18% synthetic, so far no issues at all. I have been using the WildCat 10 & 15% Premium Extra whcih has 18% 80/20 syn/castor blend. That is the one you want if you want castor. I've been using it since about 1991. I have yet to replace a bearing on any new engine I bought.

Click on "products" at the top of the page and also at the top right click off to get rid of the gosh awful music they have on there. CLick on any jug and it will tell what's in it.

Rudolph Hart

Hi mike ok i'll wait till the kit arrives and have a look at it close up.The lanzo sounds interesting.Any heat waves your way? apart from your southern neighbours...

The 90t sounds sweet

mike109

G'day mate. We had a couple of weeks of 35 to 40 plus (degrees Celsius well over the Fahrenheit 100) but for the last few days it has actually been raining and getting wetter by the day. Windy too so tomorrow looks hopeless for flying.

The Saito 62 in the 85% Lanzo Bomber should just about have it climbing straight up. These things were designed with 1930s spark engines in mind and they were heavy so it has a very short nose so I had to add quite a bit of lead to get the C oF G right. Perhaps I should have use one of my 65s as they have lots of spare weight built in. I had a Playboy Senior some years ago with an OS 48 Surpass and it was very similar - push the stick forward, hold lots of "down" in and up she would go at a great rate. Easiest plane to take off I ever had. Power on for 30 seconds and then see if you can glide for 5 minutes and land on the spot. Real fun and harder to do than it seems.

My Lanzo is an ARF and I wish someone would make some more different models or at least make some kits. I want another one for my OS Open Rocker 60.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have a friend with a full size Lanzo Record Breaker with a Saito 40A engine. He used to have a Saito 45 MKII engine and there is no problem with the power.

I have another friend with a full size Lanzo Record Breaker with the RCV SP90 engine.

av8djc

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the link hobbsy, that was great information. If I switch to the premium extra I think I'll feel a bit better about using it in my plder ringed two strokes.
Dave

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I think that the flashpoint of nitro is only 4 degrees above the minimum limits of the hazardous classification.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I forgot to mention that I use the Premium Extra too (because of the castor oil component), but the standard all synthetic fuel won't hurt your Saito, OS, Enya or YS engine. Oh, Thunder Tiger too.


Ed Cregger

mike109

G'day W8YE - I did think of putting my Saito 30 in the 85% Lanzo Bomber. I am sure it would have flow it but I would have needed almost as much lead as engine so I opted for the heavier more powerful option. I was also thinking of my old OS Open Rocker 60 and I will get round to that one day in another model. Sadly it was damaged in transit and one of the pushrods was bent. I have straightened it and it should be OK but it would be nice to find a new one.

I have put the Saito 30 into a Dynaflyte Butterfly. The plane had an OS 26 FS in it before and it was perfect but a friend wanted to buy the two 26 FSs I had as he is planning a Lincoln 4 engine bomber. The two inner engines will be his existing Magnum 30FS and the two outer will be the OS 26. Should be an interesting model. He is talking of doing a proof of concept in foam and with brown paper covering. Another interesting approach. I just love this hobby for the opportunities it offers to experiment. Must be the scientist in me. I did spend my working life as a geophysicist and in the early days we were always lashing up new pieces of equipment to get the job done. Fun in the extreme. This hobby is just more of the same for me.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There is a guy that BLW and I have flown with that has several old time R/C assisted free flights. They all have smaller four strokes. He also has a full size Dallaire with a ASP 65 four stroke. It has a little more power. Takes the plane for a whirl.

I cannot remember the names of the others right now.

The guy that owned my OS 26 before me used the engine on a Butterfly

mrbill76

Hello,
I guess I found the right thread for this question. I am having a real hell of a time adjusting the low speed needle on my .82gk and hoped someone here can tell me a quick way to at least get me in the ball park to close. Yeah, I know what the book says but it has been no help. This is my first saito and doesn't seem to be as easy to adjust the LS as my other 4S's. At this point it has about a gallon of fuel through it. I had it on a H9 tango for break in (or about a half gallon or so) then boxed it for about 6 months. I have it on a plane again and I can't seem to find the low end sweet spot. I can turn 5 full turns lean or fat and don't get much difference. one thing is a constant, if I pinch the fuel line it picks up alot of RPM for 2-3 sec. then dies. so I figure it's very rich, but I turn till it's only 1/4 way open and rough idle, but will still pick up rpm if you pinch the fuel line. Does that method not work on this motor? After 3 tanks of fuel trying to adj. I just gave up and didn't fly. It's not that the motor won't run, but rather the fact I could turn the LS 5 turns either way and have it run about the same with some trim adj. and I want to know it is the most dialed in that it can be before I fly it. I hope someone has a helpful trick or suggestion. The book reads like any other but the motor won't adj. like any other. If I could get the secret to this I would be sold on saito for life. I have never seen a more powerful engine in such a small and light case! Thanks for your time.

Other info: Lowest rpm 2500
Highest rpm 11,200
Prop evolution 13x6
Outside air 60Fh humidity 28%
Elevation 2200ft

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The LS needle usually rests about 1mm below the surface of the throttle lever

Or if you look inside the carb with the throttle wide open, the LS needle is about .010" from the HS

mike109

G'day again W8 This is getting rather away from Saitos but a mate of mine flies a full size Daliare Sportster with an old Open Rocker 60. He swings a 14 or 15 inch Bolly Carbon Fiber prop on it at about 2000 RPM. It has a modified Cox 049 TD needle valve assembly with a ram tube/venturi about 4 inches long with the little Cox needle assembly about half way along. This is for the Texaco event where the amount of fuel is limited by a formula which takes in the area of the flying surfaces and the weight of the whole plane. It just ticks away as it floats off and up and up as it gradually becomes a dot in the sky. Amazing to watch. That plane really flies on its wing.

The Butterfly is an amazing aeroplane for a small four stroke. The instructions say a 15 size engine and a small four stroke produces about the same power as a standard OS 15 so I thought I would give it a try. With a 10 x 4 it was perfect. Less so with a 9 x 6. It could stay up for about an hour on a 4 OZ tank at just above idle. That plane taught me to use the sticks as I could putter around for hours on end chasing thermals. All the emphasis these days seems to be on speed and power. At my age, I like slow and graceful better.

mrbill76

What do you mean 1mm below the surface, doesn't this change depending on your altitude. And if not, or if you are at my altitude, it would be easier and more accurate if you could tell me how many turns out from the bottom it is.[]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You are probably going to wear out the O ring seal on your LS needle valve turning it in until it stops all the time.

We use the term flush with the surface of the throttle arm. This is different with a plastic throttle arm than a metal one but the 82's are plastic.

The needle rotates with the throttle with the throttle arm and this relationship will remain the same after you set it

We are talking about the head of the idle screw's position relative to the surface of the throttle arm

Or you can look inside the carb and see how far the two are apart when the carb is wide open

You may be moving your needle too much at a time?