mike early

I've got a few electrics that gather dust. I think you gentlemen have shown me the light.

I think I might try to convert my Mini Funtana...

jdkxtreme

30's on park flyers..Sounds like a 30 might fit real well on my pizza box flyer..lol

mike early

FA-115 2.1 586 3.583
FA-125a 2.2 620 3.548
FA-100 1.8 550 3.272
FA-82a 1.5 462 3.246
FA-220a 3.5 1096 3.193
FA-180 2.8 880 3.181
FA-91S 1.6 520 3.076
FA-150 2.5 890 2.808
FA-72 1.2 470 2.553
FA-120S 2.2 900 2.444
FA-80 1.3 540 2.407
FA-62a 1 420 2.380
FG-36 3 1260 2.380
FA-56 0.9 410 2.195
FA-40a 0.65 300 2.166
FA-50 0.85 435 1.954
A-30SH 0.5 260 1.923
FA-65 0.95 550 1.727
FA-45S 0.7 440 1.590

some arbitrary numbers!
The first column is the Saito Engine.
The 2nd column is the HP rating from saito-engines.info
The 3rd column is the weight in grams, from the same site.
The 4th column is a number which divides the HP by the Mass.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I've got a Parkzone T-28 Trojan foamy with a .26 four stroke (not a Saito unfortunately). It's a great combination and not much louder than the electric version.

mike109

G'day Saito 30 lovers. Mine spent its initial life in a 40 size Phoenix Tiger Moth. It was a little underpowered for the Moth but probably quite scale like. It has now replaced an OS 26 FS in my Dynaflyte Butterfly with its 99 inch glider wing. Should be just about perfect.

kevinkenny

How would I know if the timing is off. The exhaust valve seems to be working fine. I tried to set the valve spacing but that seem to create a greater back pressure.I used .004 for the clearance which was the same as was set in the exhaust. Is there an on line article that I could read?

Kevin

Kevin

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

To check your valve timing if you are in doubt

[ul][*] There is an overlap period of the valve action where both valves are open a little bit[*] This overlap period is at Top Dead center but 360 degrees of crank rotation from top dead center on the compression stroke[*] Both valves will be open a small amount. One will be closing and the other opening. The rocker arms would be even across their tops
[/ul]

Rudolph Hart

Hooley dooleys mike that would be good

Rudolph Hart

Hi kevin and i see you bought the feeler gauge.Forget about suck and blow cycles or change the way you think about it and listen and think about what w8bye is saying.I got messed up the same way,we need to conciously think about what it is we are trying to do,it makes us happy yes??

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Hi Kevin, W8ye has given you the straight skinny on the valve timing and how to check it when the engine has been completely assembled. Cam timing marks can only be seen before installation of front bearing. After assy W8ye's got it. it sounds as if you may be somewhat new to these engines so I'll expand a bit on the above to simplify it. No offense to prior posters intended.

1. Find top dead center. This is easily accomplished using a small straw like a coffee stirrer. Insert the straw into the glow plug hole and rotate the prop hub keeping the staw verticle and not allowing it to bend or bind in the cylinder. at one point the straw will stop rising and pause before lowering again...this is TDC. Mark the prop hub at, inline with, the little rib on the case in front of the cam box with a sharpie or other fine point permanent marker so you can reference it later w/o the straw flopping about or when the plug is in it.

2. "There is an overlap period of the valve action where both valves are open a little bit." (This at the end of the exh. and begining of the intake stroke.)

3. "Both valves will be open a small amount. One will be closing (exh) and the other opening (int)." "The rocker arms would be even across their tops" (at TDC) {lay a tooth pick across the rockers to help see this}

4. "This overlap period is at Top Dead center but 360 degrees of crank rotation from top dead center on the compression stroke" (on compression stroke both valves are fully closed and inactive as you rotate the hub back and forth 1/2 turn +/- from TDC)

5. If the timing checks out then procceed, if not re-post your result and someone will help you set the cam without having to pull the front bearing.

6. Reset needles for unknown/problem motor. high set to 3 1/2-4, low set so top of screw head is just below (1/4 turn) flush with the throttle arm (assuming break-in and several hours on motor)
Also be sure to have proper 4 stroke plug installed....I have mistakenly installed wrong plug before myself.

7. attempt restart. Reset HSN and LSN. Always use a tach as it's hard to hear small RPM changes on a 4c

good luck, these are great engines when cared for.

P.S. On a well run-in 90 the compression should be such that it is rather difficult to rotate through the compression stroke using just your fingers on the prop hub with the plug in, and tight. (no prop installed)

chashint

Mike, as far as aribitary numbers go that is a very nice set of them.
Unfortunately they are just that; arbitary, since the HP figure is virtually worthless.
It really is too bad that there is not an industry standard so comparing engines on paper would actually mean something.

However I do have a solution, that would provide meaningful data for the entire RC community.
If everyone will band together and donate to me one of each engine (brand new so its a level playing field) I will adjust the valves, run it in, and then post peak RPMs for each engine in a nice chart that details fuel, prop, rpm, temperature, humidity, altitude.
I know its a generous offer, no need to embarrass me by offering excessive thanks.
Just start sending the engines, if by chance I get two or more of the same engine don't worry, I will test all of them and put the numbers in the chart.
Since I have agreed to take on this huge project please start sending the engines as quickly as you can.

JWQ500RC

My Feedback: (2)

Charlie


Seeing as how this is such a huge project, I'll be glad to help out if you will just me any new engines yoiu don't have time to test.

Jim

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Charlie,

I applaude you on such a sacrifice! Just thinking of all the time you donated for the cause is mind boggling.

Just wish I had thought of it first.

John

mike early

HP is very misleading without knowing the torque and rpm. but it's a good of baseline as any, I suppose.

I have not seen numbers on the 115 that would indicate it's that much more powerful than the 100. This just highlights the value of your service, chashint. Thanks in advance, and keep us posted!

The OS 110 is not as powerful. the YS110 weighs a lot. The Saito 125 is a better engine than a lot of folks care to admit. I love mine.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I know that several people on here were asking about TurboHeaders for the Saito 2.20, I had an occasion to talk to Jim at RCSpecialties, he has the 15MM one for the 2.20 ready and also has a new 13MM one for the 1.25. I believe they are welded together.

jdkxtreme

Got a quick question. I have a NIB senior telemaster it calls for a .61 or larger 2 stroke. I want to put a saito on it. Would you guys think a 100 would do it and have plenty of power or something bigger? I want it to have good power not just scale power but I hate to overload the front of it.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 100 will be more than enough power

jdkxtreme

Thank you. We have another swapmeet coming up in two weeks and maybe I will be able to pick one up.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

A Saito 80 would fly it. It doesn't fly a whole lot different with the bigger engines. It is just a big old easy flying plane.

jdkxtreme

I just wanna be able to get it off of the ground in a fairly short runway.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You will love it.

Give it full bore to get off the ground then fly around at lower throttle settings

charlie1960

JD, i have a 100 on a 60 size P-51, i get off the ground at half throttle most times......lol....
on a grass field.....14x8 prop...
so yeah you'll have all the power you can stand...lol
bolt that bad boy on and enjoy....

Blazer1

My Feedback: (1)

I need some help with a Saito .82 mounted inverted in an Extra 330. The engine runs perfectly and is a real powerhouse spinning a MAS Scimatar 14X6 prop but the throttle is very slow to respond to input. This makes certain manuvers nearly impossible. It goes from idle to wot fine but throttling down the rpms take forever to drop.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Blaze, does it smoke when it is slugglish or is the exhaust clear with the engine hesitating as if running out of fuel, Thanks, Dave

Blazer1

My Feedback: (1)

It never hesitates, I can go from an idle to wide open as fast as I want. It does not want to idle down, almost like the throttle servo is sticking but it isn't. It seems to be more prevalent in the mid-range or going from wide open to 1/2 or 1/3 throttle. It goes to idle quicker than it goes to 1/2 throttle but still with some delay.