JustErik

One more question. One side of the wrist pin has a larger hole than the other. Does it matter which direction the pin faces when reassembling? I did't realize the ends were different until I pulled the teflon pads. By then, it was too late.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

did you undo the rod from the piston?

JustErik

Yes, but before doing so I made note of the proper orientation of the piston in the sleeve. And I noted which side of the rod faces forward. The pin is what has me stumped.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't think it matters on the pin

It does on the rod though

JustErik

When will you know?








Just kidding! I couldn't see how it would matter either, but didn't want to make any stupid assumptions.

Thanks for all your help.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Wow so many answers here to some of lifes problems!




Remember it is easier to ask for forgiveness then for permission!

sodbuster 1

Having a fuel dripping issue on my 1.50

constantly dripping fuel at rest.I had no choice when mounting the tank as to where it could fit.
the carb is hanging about an inch and a half below the tank as the motor is mounted inverted.
Is this the reason for it dripping? Siphoning because the carb is so much lower?
If it is, any fixes for this being I have no choice on either mounting for the tank or the engine?

"Nother question.
Had a nose over on landing and took out the velocity stack. Is the velocity stack really needed? Does it do much on a 1.50?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You got that one right

The solution is a Cline regulator system

Rudolph Hart

Hi whats dawn power(oven cleaner?) and q tips are cotton buds?

rocketman-RCU

My Feedback: (73)

All my Saitos run better on synthetic fuel. Especially 20% Heli fuel. 100T, 180, 170R, 450R

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Simply put a loop, in your fuel line to the engine, that takes it above the outlet on the tank. No more dripping.

sodbuster 1

[/quote]
Simply put a loop, in your fuel line to the engine, that takes it above the outlet on the tank. No more dripping.
[/quote]


Nice inexpensive simple solution.
Thanks!!!

JustErik

The Dawn stuff comes in a spray bottle (not aerosol; the kind you pump with your fingers) and is very good at dissolving baked on castor goo. And yes, q-tips are cotton buds.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.dawn-dish.com/en_US/powerdissolver.do

mike early

How are you gentlemen using your Dawn Power Dissolver?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I put it on full strength scrub and let set an hour then rinse off

I might do this several times


I f you leve the aluminum part in Dawn long term it will discolor the aluminum

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Hiya Guys,

Another great engine cleaner is regular Dishwasher machine powder..... I put a heaped tablespoon into one of wife's best pots ( about a 2 litre/ 3 pint size one ) with boiling water.

I then soak the part for cleaning in this solution for only a couple of minutes ( left a long time the metal will discolour ) and remove for a scrub with said wifey's or the kids toothbrushes and or nail brush to remove gunk.

Rinse off in boiling or hot water ( It dries quicker ).

Note.... wear some "oven mitts" when handling the emersed engine parts as they are very hot. Wife normally keeps these mitts somewhere in the locality of television looking thing that belches smoke and burns food.

Hope that helps,

Paul

labebe

Sirs, any Idea?? I'm planning to buy a T/F Staggerwing and I want to install a gas engine. What gas engine do you reccomend me >> What about the Fuji 34cc???
Thanks, ALex

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Try this forum thread instead: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_38..._1/key_/tm.htm If you'd like to try a SAITO gas engine for your Staggerwing, I'd recommend the Saito FG36.

Rudolph Hart

I'm with gageebees labebe the fg36 sounds awesome in flight,you'll love it mate.

show871

Saito 125. Did the normal 45 mins of slobbering rich break in. Now, It seams to reach my peak rpm at 1.75 turns out. Is this a normal range of HS needle setting after LS is set?

Also, I am getting quite low #s, 8700 16-4 apc 30% cool power. Does it just take a while to get rpms out of the motor?

Sorry, one more thing what is a clear indicator you are getting too hot?

THANKS! 871

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

1 3/4 turns out on the HSN is rather typical

Don't remember which engine you are using?

show871

LOL its a 125. What do ya think?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They are supposed to turn a APC 16 X 6 at 9000 on 15%

A guy at the field runs 20% and a 17 X 4W and that engine turns too fast with that prop on the level.

I run a APC 16 X 6 on my 125 and 15% but I never tached it. I never run full throttle except vertical up. It'll make the prop sing in short order on the level

It takes a while for a 125 to limber up. More than 3 gallons anyway.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I've been breaking in my new Saito 100, and I'm approaching a gallon now. I've been using the Powermaster 20/20 YS/Saito mix. Tank by tank the dependability has improved. I went flying Sunday and I was just about to put that big ol' starter I had made up onto it, when I thought; "Why not?" and I popped the glow stick on it and just flipped it back against the compression. It started right up....running backwards! I snubbed the cone with the starter rubber and it stopped, popped, and started running in the correct direction. For the rest of the day I never used the starter once. Just flipped it back against compression and she was running first time.. This is why I'm so gung-ho over Saitos.

I've been tweaking it each day at first start-up, and I guess I've got it in pretty nice shape. By the time a couple of gallons have gone through it I'm going to have another great Saito here.

Quote:
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"Sorry, one more thing what is a clear indicator you are getting too hot?

THANKS! 871 "
-

871,
I don't know how clear of an indicator it is, but when they're really hot the microsplatter of fuel will often burn onto the outside of the engine and muffler, and you'll get buildup there very quickly. I have to keep a close eye on mine because I'm kind of OCD and I scrub and scrub mine after every flying day until I have only shiny metal like a new motor again (I use the Kirkland spray-on cleaner from Costco, that stuff is the best I've EVER seen in 30 years). I kind of guage mine by how hard I have to rub to get that day's buildup off. The harder it is to get off, the more you can consider it to be "Baked-on", and you can adjust things accordingly (air cooling openings, fuel too rich or too lean, prop size, etc.)

I'm not the typical guy you might see at a field. I'm more into the techno-aspects. I'll make a flight or two, then throw the plane up onto the table and me and the guys will tweak it and point (and scratch, because we're guys), and adjust this and that. I love flying a lot, but I love a totally dependable engine and I love to make sure that anybody there who wants the same can have it as well. So it's not totally unheard of for somebody to break out a battery-powered Dremel drum tool and make some airflow adjustments right there. Heck, we'll even try each other's fuels and re-tune the carb to it, then tune back later.

You'd be surprised how many guys will gather around and participate, the ideas will fly and as you work through the various ideas you find the proof is in the pudding. Old wive's tales get sorted out quickly (the ideas that really don't fly are disproved) and everybody learns some things. It's great fun.


Jim