Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

I have 8oz on my .82's with a very comfortable 10 minutes . This is on a 3d plane though, so throttle is not full all the time .

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Doesn't matter , you'll never be able to compare your needle settings with some one else's period . There are way too many variables .
Plus once you take the time to get it nice and tuned in why the heck would anyone want to count how many turns their needles are ?

One thing , get more fuel through before you get all set on a low idle . 2500 is not bad really for a brand new engine . You will find that once you do get the LSN set nice that about 16ounces later the LSN will tend to richen up again on you . This is were your going to start seeing your top end gain and idle get lower . Just follow the tuning protocol and you'll be good .

Rudolph Hart

I agree with your thoughts there mike,ran my 82 to rich,did'nt understand the engine that well at the start.Now i've screwed the bearings and serves me right,more good than bad when learning.The 115 started first flick this morning and it felt good to have the time and space to run it up in the aeroplane and do a system check without the dreaded red mist decending and feeling like you gotta fly it in front of the peanut gallery..all good flying mates you know

Dave have you ran the 115 with an 15x8 apc? a quick lean off at the field today yielded 8100 to 8400 after a bench run of about 1ltr of fuel,10% nitro.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OB, I hope you've been flying it for that 1.5 gallons of fuel, it only takes about 40 minutes to get a Saito flyable. This is typical of the LS setting when set correctly.

dmesecher

I have posted this in another thread... with no good answer yet so I thought I would check here.. below is the original post.. along with this info i will add, I run cool power 15% and the fuel is new and I have tried a few new os f plugs... I have also a saito 180 running this fuel just fine. The valves have been unstuck and gapped.. could it be junk in the carb(spray bar) or does it sound like the valves still sticking open longer maybe.... how hard are these to take apart and clean... I have a new gasket set for the carb and the rest of the engine, but I hesitate due to never taking one of these apart before... Oh and can I join your elite club...I have one .82 one 1.25 and one 1.80 long live saito.....

Original post

I have a saito .82 that sat for a few years without running... It took cleaning the valves a little to unstick them, along with checking the gap, and cleaning the needle valve out to get it running again... So now here is my problem..I can not get the throttle response to clean up.. either to rich and hesitates or it is to lean and dies... high speed is about 2.5 turns or so out running around 750 -850 k with a 14x4w.. the low speed is just under flush with the throttle arm... when it is in the air it is doggy and feels really underpowered.. and sounds like it is on the edge of spitting and dying all of the time...

blw

My Feedback: (3)

W8YE pointed out that I missed someone who requested a number last week. Here are the new members:


650 airboss45

651 smesecher

show871

Hey guys I have a new saito 125 with a 1.5 gallons run. But a problem!

I have tuned it well, but I cannot get it to leave a smoke trail at full throttle! why is this? Even when I richen it too much no smoke! It has a nice burst of smoke upon acceleration

When I land, taxi back and temp it Im in the 140-170 range depending on where I temp the head.

Runnin cool power 30% heli, 15x8 9000ish rpm

Should I be worried about no smoke trail?????????

Thanks

871

blw

My Feedback: (3)

871,

Your engine shouldn't leave a smoke trail like other brand engines. The high speed needle valve completely takes over at around 80-85% throttle. The best thing to do is set the high speed around 300 RPM below whatever you peak at.

Taking temps really doesn't tell you much, and is very inaccurate. The Eagletree system is good for long term use if you happen to have an interest in it, but not too much else mechanically.

Saito's run well on 5%-30% nitro. I use 15% Omega because of the castor. I also add a couple of ounces of Sig castor. 30% fuel will give you about 300 more RPM over 15%.

Hope this helps.

snowboardnmtbike

Hey guys.

I am finishing up my hangar 9 sundowner 50 build. I have a new saito 82a i am putting in it. I have the cowl cut for the engine and I just now relized the exhaust is not going to fit with the saito supplied bent header. Am should I buy a 90 bend header or should i get the flexable exhaust? the flexable exhaust sold at my LHS only has one threaded end so it means i would be running mufflerless. Is this ok? also I noticed the flexable exhaust headers sold at my LHS do not have a fitting for a pressure line. Is that ok? I am putting my saito in a scale pylon racer that i will not race but still fly fast.

Phantom4

My Feedback: (31)

Why are you using a 30% heli fuel????[:-] Heli fuel have more oil then a airplane.that cose a lot of smoke. on all my Saito engines i'm using Cool Power 15%

dmesecher

Ok so I think I found some issues with the engine today... went to rebuild the carb with new seals.... took the back plate off due to I could see were it looked like it was leaking... I found that the back plate (plastic?) had some bubbles in it, and right were the bubbles are there is a crack in the casting on the inside. The crack does not go all the way through to the outside of the crank case. Called the lhs and I have had this engine for just under the three yr mark.. He said that the crack sounded like a casting defect due to it has never been in a crash and this engine had 10 or so flights on it... the crack he thought could cause so excess vibrations wich could cause the plastic back plate to melt..bubble up and cause a leak. Still not sure why this engine could never get tuned. I gave up a yr ago and shelved it until this past month. So Monday lhs is sending it in to saito to see what they can do... fingers are crossed...I will try to get a picture posted of the crack...

Uploaded the photo's used my cell camera so image is not that good but you can see the crack in the crankcase...

#651

otrcman

OK, I've read all the recent posts regarding setting the hi speed and low speed needle valves, but I've still got a question. The engine in question is a Saito 50 which has an unknown history but seems to be pretty well broken in. I did have to replace the carburetor, which was missing when I received the engine. So the carb is brand new.

I've got the HSN and LSN pretty well set. Top end is maybe 200 below peak. Idle isn't great yet, but is steady and reliable at about 2900. Engine may not be fully broken in. The thing that seems strange is that the engine is quite rich in the midrange. Lots of smoke in the 5000-6000 range, both throttling down and throttling up. On throttle burst from idle there is very little hesitation and not much smoke, which makes me think the idle is pretty close.

Forgot to mention: Fuel is Cool Power 15% with 2% Sig castor added. Plug is OS Type F.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Dick (# issued but don't recall it)

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Probably cause 30% aero blend is really hard to come by in most places . I only wish I could come across some Coolpower 30/18 without having to special order it.
Some of us like to use 30% for the power . It seems to have come down in price over the summer also , so I dont mind paying what I used to pay for 15% now

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dick, if 2,900 is the slowest idle you can get the LS needle is still way rich, the .50 should idle at 1,800 and smooth as silk. Set the LS needle with the HS needle at absolute peak. The LS needle controls about 85% of the throttles range so if it is too rich at idle it wll be too rich in the midrange.

GaryHarris

Got room for another Saito club member?

Saito FA-100 GK slapped onto a Sig Four Star 60 and that engine works!

otrcman

Thanks, Hobbsy. I'll give that a try and report back. When setting the LS needle, do you make your adjustments with the engine running and continually test for lower idle, or do you use some other method to detect the optimum spot for the LSN ?

On my 80 twin (two carbs) I found the best results by holding a finger about an inch from the exhaust outlet and feeling the temperature and steadiness of the exhaust pulses. When the LSN's were about right, I could detect a distinctly steadier pulsing of the exhaust and also a steep rise in temperature. Sure is messy, though !

Dick

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I agree. I also run 15% with good results and easy starts.

Rudolph Hart

You should probably buy both,they work well together.The flexible exhaust contains it's muffling in the sidewalls of the pipe,look at it's rippled shape inside and out.If the pipe has no nipple you can tap one straight into the 90 elbow.

spaceworm

I have read that the rippled pipe will cause an RPM loss, but I have not heard why. Is it the length, or the ripples? The MFR of the Turboheader muffler has various angled fittings that can be used to get the muffler pointed in the right direction. Just Engines in the UK also have an extensive selection of adapters.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes sir, I make 1/8th turn changes and check the transition and top rpm after every other change. When you get close, one of the changes will make more difference than the previous ones.

PS, don't forget to keep lowering the throttle as the idle improves.

otrcman

Hobbsy, when you say that you check the top RPM after every other change, do you actually adjust the high speed needle to be sure that you're at the peak, or are you simply looking at the tach to see that your peak RPM hasn't changed ?

Dick

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Hobbsy like to keep the high speed at peak until he gets done with the low speed.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

GaryHarris- you are member # 652

Paul_BB

Hi everybody, can somebody help me ? [sm=drowning.gif]

I own a new Saito 72. During breaking in on a bench it worked OK. Now it is mounted upside down on my Chipmunk and I had a hard time today to make it run in the good direction.

Most of the time it ignited in the wrong direction.
I found some bubbles in the fuel supply but can this explain why it just wanted to turn backward ?
Somebody of my club told me it runned too rich. But the needle was just right at full throttle. Any hints ? [sm=72_72.gif]

Thanks for the help,
Paul

mike early

All engines start backwards every now and then.

Your low side needle is probably still rich.
It seems to me that most are.