William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dak:

The FA-120 is a "Long stroke" engine, the FA-125a is a "Big bore" egine. Torque characteristics are different for the two, so the optimum prop wont be the same. Just like the FA-220, the 125a hasn't been around long enough to learn the best way to use it.
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rlmcnii:

The planes we flew at 12+ miles altitude required our wearing full pressure suits. Cabin heat didn't matter. But I did lose cabin heat in a B-57B once. First thing I did was get down on the deck to keep from freezing, then went home to get it fixed.

Bill.

dakster1a

I figured the bore and stroke are so very close on these two engines that the lighter rotating mass would prevail. Maybe the heavier crank on the 120 acts as centrifugal force or momentum.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Well doggone, Dak. I was sure you were wrong so I dug out some spec sheets and checked.

FA-120 1.26x0.97 bore and stroke, 1.21 cid.
FA-125 1.24x1.02 bore and stroke, 1.23 cid.

Almost as near as can be. But the recommended prop for the FA-120 is a 15x8, and the 125a is stated as 15x7. That seems to indicate that Saito knows the 125 isn't quite the engine the FA-120 is. But the FA-125a being six ounces lighter than the FA-120 counts for a lot too.

Bill.

dakster1a

I agree the specs are too close to make a difference. I am awaiting everyones input on which engine to buy regarding power to weight. Or maybe someone else has compared the two and come up with different results. I am very happy with the 125, and at this point would stick with the lighter 125. Thanks Mr. Robinson

kevhunt

My Feedback: (4)

Peak RPM seems to be the only things drastacally different(besides weight) between the 120 and the 125. The specs say 10,000 for the 125 and 11,000 for the 120. The HP ratings are identical. I don't know if this is relevant, but the 125, being the stroker of the two should have a little more torque. Maybe the 125 is producing peak HP at lower RPM...Kevin

dakster1a

True story, I really felt like my 125 would be dominant, I will find a way to come out on top in some further testing. Next time we pull them out, we will experiment with some different props, and If I can get a hold of a scale, we can check some thrust numbers.

hestvikauto

Hi .

Well , i now have about 2 gallons ys 20/20 trough my Saito 100. It runs beautifully.
My question is. I have the high speed needle 4,5 turns out. I cant get it rich? It has the same rpm,(9000 apc 15*6) no matter what i do to the main needle. I can turn it all the way in and all the way out and there is no change in rpm. I can hold on the motor after a 10min flight because it doesn't get hot. It respond very well on the low speed needle.
I have changed the fuel tank and everything. Tank height is ok. What do you all think? I didn't touch the needles before after one gallon when i try to lean it.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hes, normally when the HS needle is ineffective it indicates that the LS needle is too lean. There could be dirt in the fuel inlet causing the same effect but this is seldom the case.

hestvikauto

The low speed is flush whit the house. I have leane it 1/2 turn in. It was very rich from the faktory. I am out of sugestions

JPSmith

Who & Where?

New to this site, and somewhat new to Saito engines. Need to find a replacement exhaust (manifold tube & nut) for a Saito-45. I believe it's 10mm. Also have a Saito-56 -- and I believe it is also a 10mm. Prefer 'new' part, but good-to-excellent on the used side would probably suffice. Where would you direct me. Live in Wilmington, NC.

Thanks, Jeff

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

hestvikauto:

As stated by Hobbsy and others, there has to be a restriction in your fuel feed. Most likely a bit of trash in the spray bar.
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Jeff:

If your FA-56 pipe fits the FA-45 exhaust, just order another for the FA-56 from Horizon Hobby.

And you are number 204 on the club list.

Bill.

gunny43

I HAVE A GOLDEN NIGHT 150 IN MY TT RARE BEAR STARTS BY FLICKING THE PROP NSPINNER GREAT ENGINE

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Ok gunny, even though it's taken you almost a year for five posts, we'll let you in.

Your number is 203, (I skipped one in error when I gave Jeff Smith his number).

Bill.

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Everyday, sometimes more than once, I have to "unsubscribe" and then re"subscribe" to this thread. I still don't get email notification of new posts alot of the time.
Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
JLK

JPSmith

#204 it is ... and good to be on-board.

Not to be a short-bus kid, but I checked-out the Horizon Hobby site .. and for Saito mufflers, the FA45-FA56/GK 10mm Muffler Cast has a female connection ... but I need male connector, or an adaptor. And, I don't see an adaptor available for the FA-45/FA-56; like the one available for the FA-65 -- which is a 12mm. I like the 'cast' muffler over the 'flexible'.

Am I going down the wrong path?

[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jeff:

This is the head pipe for the FA-56, male threads on both ends.

Muffler Manifold,Std:E,F,II,JJ
$8.25 [SAI5075]

See it here:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing
Scroll about 1/2 way down the page, it's just past the 10 mm muffler.

Bill.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

jlkonn,
The same thing has been happening to me. Nothing you are doing wrong. I seem to be getting the posts regularly now though. Maybe the problem has been fixed?? Time will tell.

Really interesting thread.....

Bob

lrr

I have selected the option to get one notification only, but get notifications of all the posts. I guess it is either feast or famine! Not sure what to say, other than maybe try to pick a different option for how you get notifications, and see if that helps.

Lee

Ernie Misner

Isn't the o-ring for the intake manifold/head union a special high temp o-ring? If I buy a few standard o-rings of that size here locally (instead of popping for a whole gasket set from Horizon), will they work okay for that application?

Does anyone have a (metric?) size for that o-ring for the Saito 82?

Thanks,

Ernie

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

On some of the Saito engines it is a special compound for the upper O-ring and on others it is not. Some I have removed didn't have the shape of a O ring but that of a cut piece of tube. But these could have been shaped that way after being inside the engine for years?

Regardless, no more than they cost, a regular O-ring will last at least a year or more and so the hardware store O ring becomes more interesting.

To get these special O rings for like the Saito 91, you have to buy the whole gasket set.

Enjoy,

Jim

Jack211

Bill, I got to fly the 82a on the Twist today. It was the first time since the factory put in new fore and aft bearings. It made a metalic ticking sound as I turned it over on the table with my figers, checking her out, preflight. I couldn't discover the source. Took the valve covers off, checked the clearances and nuts, fine, then decided to start it and put her up. No problems, but the ticking noise stll exists. It occurs BETWEEN TDC and bottom. Makes no sense to me. Doesn't seem to make any odd noises in the air either. Any ideas on the source of the ticking sound?

With the 15 x 6 prop, I got exactly 13 minutes 10 seconds on the 11 oz tank--that's when she flamed out, last flight (I didn't want to come down before I had to!). On that last flight I DID do some full throttle inverted spinning to see if I could get her to go UP. A bit, only. She hovers at about 2/5ths throttle. So I believe I can, indeed, as you suggest, get 14 minutes on that tank with that prop and set up.

Thanks again.,

Jack

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jack:

Fuel rate? "I is tole ya so!"

The clicking is normal. If curious pull the intake rocker cover and watch as you turn the engine. You will hear the click as the inlet valve is closing. When the inlet tappet goes over center on the cam shaft the cam is driven in forward rotation, the click is the clearance (lash) in the timing gears.

Bill.

Jack211

[quote]ORIGINAL: William Robison

Fuel rate? "I is tole ya so!" [Yeah, you did--and many times, correctly.]

The clicking is normal. [I had hoped as much, but I didn't hear it before.]

Thanks, again,

Jack

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
Why is it important to keep the pushrods in their relative positions when disassembling the motor....intake with intake and exhaust with exhaust?
Thanks!
JLK

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

J, the reason is that the pushrods and their respective sockets have different established wear patterns on them, when you change them around they have to wear in a new pattern and this means more wear than normal.